Power & protect

Recommend you contact your nearest authorized service center directly or online here:

Audiobahn Contact Church Sound Systems Audio Video Lighting Equipment...

Disconnect all speaker connections and rca cables. Leave power, ground and remote wires intact. Try turning on again. If you still have a protection light your amp is faulty. Hopefully you have warranty D.A thumbs up would be greatly appreciated if this answer is helpful to you.

may be the coil filter choke is wornout...DC supply stage inside your amplifier...go to the nearest electronic tech to repair that..

Disconnect all speaker connections and rca cables. Leave power, ground and remote wires intact. Try turning on again. If you still have a protection light your amp is faulty. Hopefully you have warranty. D .A thumbs up would be greatly appreciated if this answer is helpful to you.

Either blown subs, or bad amp.. Disconnect the subs, and try turning the amp on, if the amp is still in protect then your amp is bad, if the protect light goes off, then your subs are bad, or possibly wired at to low of an impedance, but I don't think that will trigger the protect on an Audiobahn amp.

Have you tried powering on without speakers connected? Have you tried powering on with no input? If either senerio causes the amp to NOT go into protection mode, then there is most likely a short in wiring. Use a multi meter to isolate.

i had the same thing happen to me on my 2300hct audiobahn. it turned out to be the remote. but soon after my amp went dead. i than switched to JL no problems since.

but i still use audiobahn immortal 12's.

There are many different ways that an amp can fail but the two most common failures are shorted output transistors and blown power supply transistors (< those are not blown). There are several types of protection circuits in amplifiers. The most common are over-current and thermal. The over-current protection is supposed to protect the output transistors. Sometimes it doesn't work well enough to prevent the failure of the output transistors but it will work well enough to shut the supply down before the power supply FETs are destroyed. If the amp remains in protect mode, goes into protect mode or blows the fuse as soon as the remote voltage is applied, shorted output transistors are almost certainly the cause. If the fuse protecting the amp is too large, if the protection circuit doesn't respond quickly enough or if the power supply is poorly designed, the power supply transistors may fail. If you see a lot of black soot on the power supply transistors (near the power transformer), the power supply transistors have failed. Soot on the board doesn't necessarily mean the transistors have failed. Sometimes, technicians don't clean up the mess from a previous failure.
In general, when a transistor fails, it will either short (common for output AND power supply transistors) or open (common for power supply transistors). Transistors act like valves. They control the current flowing through a circuit. A shorted transistor acts like a valve that's stuck open (passing too much current). In the case of an output transistor, the shorted transistors tries to deliver the full rail voltage to the speaker output terminal. If you've ever seen a damaged amp that pushed or pulled the speaker cone to its limits when the amp powered up (common on some Rockford amplifiers), that was almost certainly due to a shorted output transistor. When checking transistors, you most commonly look for shorted connections inside the transistor. You do this by using a multimeter to look for low resistance connections between the transistor's terminals.
Note:
I used the terms short and open on the previous paragraph. A short (short circuit) is a path through which current flows that should not be there. An open (open circuit) is a break in the circuit.

You should never disconnect the ground from the amp when it has B+ and remote voltage applied. This will cause damage to the head unit ith some amplifiers.

Does the protection light come on with the ground wire connected?

THER likely means it thinks it's overheating (thermal protection). This is not a common failure.

Sometimes, low voltage can cause strange problems so you need to check the voltage on the B+ and remote terminals. Place the black meter lead on the ground terminal of the amplifier when checking the voltage. The voltage should remain above 11 volts. If it's below 11 volts on either the remote of B+ terminals, you need to trace down the problem. If the voltage remains above 11 volts, the amp probably has an internal fault and will have to be repaired.