Kenmore Side by Side Refrigerator Logo
aleina Posted on May 11, 2012
Answered by a Fixya Expert

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Fridge warm, freezer has frost on back panel & is defrosting, fans work, just changed defrost thermostat, no air is moving from freezer side to fridge side, drain pan under fridge is dry

Moved food from fridge to upper shelves in freezer to keep cold, still frost on freezer back panel, ice on freezer top shelf is cold -- but not frozen, no air moving from freezer to fridge, changed defrost thermostat 4 days ago and it worked beautifully, now back to ground zero

  • Jorgie  the appliance guy

    if u replaced the defrost terminator and stikll a problem I would check the defrost timer, u can use a small screw driver to place into the tiny hole located under the timer and turn clockwise till u hear 2 clicks this will shut it off defrost mode and u should hear the fan and compressor come back on, then u know u have a bad timer

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  • Master 2,468 Answers
  • Posted on May 12, 2012
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This fan needs to run when the compressor runs,check fan blade for being jammed by ice if you have this much ice on back wall as ice will stall motor,if no fan there will be no cool air to refrige compartment also the defrost drain tray will fill with water then freeze over which in turn floods the freezer floor and refrige compartments cause it cannot drain to the pan in the bottom

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 878 Answers
  • Posted on Aug 28, 2006

SOURCE: freezer/fridge won't get cold enough

Madezmom, you have a defrost issue. If your model starts with 106 you more than likley have a bad defrost bi-metal, I will attach a picture of bad one. This sits on the evaporator in the freezer section behind the panel. You will have to remove the shelves and remove the back panel. Defrost the evaporator completely. The part number for the bi-metal is 2196155. See if yours is bulged like the one in the attached photo. If so, that's your problem..Catriver..post back.

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Anonymous

  • 828 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 02, 2008

SOURCE: kenmore sideby side fridge

You have a defrost system problem. Defrost is controlled by a timer which energizes the heater circuit. The heater circuit has a radiant or cal rod type heater which melts the frost from the coil. When the coil reaches a temperature where all ice would be gone a termination switch opens and shuts of the heater. The timer will continue to run until defrost time expires (18-22 minutes).

If you can locate the timer there is a clutch head screw to advance the timer to the defrost position. Turn the screw clockwise SLOWLY until you hear one audible click. The heaters should come on and defrost take place. If the unit restarts after the 18-22 minute period the timer is good, if it does not restart advance the screw to a second audible click and it will restart.
If you had to turn the timer the to second click to get it started cooling replace the timer.

If the unit restarted after the 18-22 minutes and defrost did not happen your problem is in the heater circuit. This would be an open heater or bad defrost terminator switch. To access the heater and defrost terminator the back panel in the freezer section must be removed. With an Ohm meter you can check the heater to see if it is good.

Anonymous

  • 163 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 09, 2009

SOURCE: Frozen vents from freezer to fridge

you most likely have a defrost problem.or a clogged drain.you need to check your defrost heater defrost timer and thermostat.if ice is formed over drain then you can unclog drain with hot water.you will see when it is unclogged,water will run down drain without running over into bottom of freezer.

Anonymous

  • 331 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 28, 2009

SOURCE: model# 596.58642891 freezer side thawed first and

I humbly disagree with Sea Breeze. We know the thermostat (cold control) is working because the fans are running and the compressor is hot to the touch. So we're getting power to the compressor. Now, only TWO things will keep the compressor from firing up when it has power supplied to it.
1.) A failed Starter. (that box connected to the left side of the compressor.)
2.) A failed compressor.

Then there are two things that'll take out the starter.
1.) Just a mechanical failure within the starter (blown ceramic disk). Note ---> You can normally tell if a starter is bad just by taking it off the compressor and shaking it. If it sounds like it has pebbles in it... it's bad. If it's solid, it's probably good.
2.) If the compressor locks up or fails, the starter is not far behind.

This Kenmore is made by Frigidaire. My experience with these is that 90% of the time, the compressor has locked up. You said you had access to the compressor... if it's made by Tecumseh (you'll see a blue Indian head logo on the sticker) I can almost guarantee it's failed. (Frigidaire is now putting Embraco compressors in their machines because Tecumseh was such a terrible one.)

All that to say this... you may decide that you want to replace the starter (if it's bad/rattling). If you do, go here and look at parts # 211 & 251 on the diagram... you'll need these. So, all-in-all, it'd cost around $20 plus shipping to replace the starter. If the new starter works? Great! You fell within the 10%... (almost like winning the lottery!) If the starter doesn't work, all you're out is the $20.

Good luck,
SG

Anonymous

  • 531 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 06, 2009

SOURCE: defrost timer location on Kenmore model 106.56542400

carry control board part#2149705

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The light is probably unrelated to the cooling problem.
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If the defrost thermostat is bad it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won’t turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
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You can also bypass the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.

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If you need help finding your model number see here> http://www.appliancepartspros.com/modelnumber_locator.aspx

To locate your timer, motherboard, control or adaptive defrost control , enter your model number and search for the part or post back on Fixya.
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action?psid=26129238&sid=PSx20071217x00001a
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Check to see if the condenser fan at the back underneath near the compressor is running. If no check fan.

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How to check stuff>
http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/appliance/refrigerator/refrigerator.php


Is the evaporator fan in the freezer running. It blows cold air into the fridge side through a damper in the wall between the freezer and fridge. Make sure the damper is open.

Below the evaporator fan is the evaporator coils. Remove the back cover inside the freezer to observe the frost pattern. Light frost everywhere(NORMAL) or a partial pattern of ice(LOW ON FREON) or nothing(LOW FREON OR COMPRESSOR PROBLEM).
heavy frost-
If the evaporator coils behind the back panel of the freezer are icing up because of auto defrost failure that will stop the circulation of cold air and eventually affect the freezer too.

check defrost timer, defrost heater, defrost thermostat. In most newer models the timer has been replaced by an electronic control board. If the heater and thermostat are ok it’ll be the control.

You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.
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Is the compressor motor running.If no check starter/overload relay.
Check to see if the condenser fan at the back underneath near the compressor is running. If no check fan.

Are the condenser coils near there warm or room temp. should be warm


How to check stuff>
http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/appliance/refrigerator/refrigerator.php


Is the evaporator fan in the freezer running. It blows cold air into the fridge side through a damper in the wall between the freezer and fridge. Make sure the damper is open.

Below the evaporator fan is the evaporator coils. Remove the back cover in the freezer to observe the frost pattern. Light frost everywhere(NORMAL) or a partial pattern of ice(LOW ON FREON) or nothing(LOW FREON OR COMPRESSOR PROBLEM).

If the evaporator coils behind the back panel of the freezer are icing up because of auto defrost failure that will stop the circulation of cold air and eventually affect the freezer too.

check defrost timer, defrost heater, defrost thermostat. In most newer models the timer has been replaced by an electronic control board. If the heater and thermostat are ok it’ll be the control.

You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.


Your evaporator coils frost up in normal use and every eight hours or so the entire unit shuts down and the defrost heater comes on to melt the frost. This cycle last about 20 minutes. The melted frost drips into a drain pan and through a drain tube to the drain tray under the freezer/refrigerator where it's evaporated by the condenser fan.

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The problem is the defrost system located behind the freezer back panel.

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When defrost system is defective the fridge wont cool down properly

In your fridge , either evaporator fan, thermostat or heating element is faulty, and the ice on coils is preventing the appliance from cooling down properly.
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