Question about Kenmore Elite 45986 Front Load Washer

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KENMORE H3T WASHER GREY TWISTED FRONT SEAL

The grey seal on the Kenmore H3T appears to be twisted. It looks like the whole assembly that holds the drum has shifted an inch or so in the direction of spin. In other words the seal is firmly attached to the body and also firmly attached to the "floating" drum bearing. Well the bearing that holds the drum looks like it shifted somewhat and now the seal is stressed and looks twisted. Is there some way to lift up the drum assembly and reset it back to where it was so the seal isn't stressed. I think it may have gotten out of balance when it was drying. Thanks

Posted by JEFF DOGAN on

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Anonymous

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I am currently replacing this bellow because of holes and five years of wear and tear. The bellow is attached to the front door assembly via a spring loaded clamp. This clamp is a solid large wire ring with loops on each end where the spring attaches. You do not have to remove the spring, just place a screwdriver between the bellow and the ring or spring to remove. This will allow you to take off the bellow from the lip of the front door assembly to reposition. The spring clamp goes on starting first from opposite of the spring and working in both directions a little at a time. ALL DONE.

Posted on Dec 30, 2006

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Hi there, I have a Kenmore Elite H3t and wanted to do a load of laundry today and it keeps blinking in Red DL and then F. I looked through my manual in the troubleshooting area and of course that...


Hi

Thanks for using FixYa. Error "dlf" means a door latch failure. This means that you'll need to replace the door latch assembly however before doing that you can leave the washer unplugged for 30minutes so that it resets itself. In the meantime when it's unplugged just inspect the door latch wiring to ensure all the connector plugs are intact and not loose or broken. You can access the door latch wiring harness by removing the top panel of the washer. To remove the top panel just remove the three screws that hold the panel in place in the rear of the washer. With the screws removed, the panel will slide back, and then lift off. Locate the door latch assembly behind the front panel on the right hand side. Trace all the connectors from the door latch to the Central Control Unit (CCU) and make sure they are properly seated at both ends. If after doing this still the issue is not resolved then unfortunately you have to get the door latch replaced. Please rate the solution if the issue is resolved or else revert for further assistance.

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1 Answer

Kenmore elite h3t giving f dl code, wont start to wash my clothes


1. Unplug washer.
2. Remove the outer portion of the door bellow. This is the gray rubber boot around the door. Feel around the edge of the door bellow where it attaches to the front of the washer. You will find a wire retaining hoop in the seam between the rubber and the front case. Follow this wire hoop to the bottom of the door bellow and you will find a tension spring. Carefully, stretch this spring apart and remove the wire hoop.
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5. Carefully remove the latch assembly from the plastic mounting bracket BEFORE attempting to unplug any wires. It makes it much easier to access if you do.
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9. Starting at the top of the door bellow at the 12 o'clock position begin inserting the wire hoop back into the groove. Work your way around with both hands to the 4 and 8 o'clock positions. (This is where you could use those second pair of hands). While holding a slight downward tension on the wire hoop to keep it in place, pull the tension spring apart enough to snap the remaining part of the hoop into place at the bottom. Once you've completed these steps make sure the door closes and latches properly. NEVER slam a door with an electronic latch. They can break easily.

Now plug the washer back in and test operate. NOTE: You can run diagnostics on these washers by referring to the tech sheet provided by the manufacturer. The tech sheet is located behind the lower panel under the door, or along the interior cabinet walls. Included, are instructions on how to run diagnostics and troubleshooting tips associated with the list of fault codes. It is recommended that this tech sheet remain inside the washer to prevent it from being lost.

Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

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1 Answer

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1 Answer

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4. On front right, loosen screw and remove rubber drain trap from tub. Squeeze large snap ring and remove water level sensor ( thing that looks like an old fuel filter ) from rubber drain also. Remove little hose from top of water level switch also. ( NOTE: You can also disconnect the level switch hose at the top of the washer. This will make it easier to re-connect, however you'll need to be careful that you do not damage the hose when you remove the tub assembly ).
5. At this point, you might want to remove the motor control board and pump motor assembly. Each is secured by 2 screws and are easily removed. This will prevent accidental damage and give you more room inside the washer to work with. There are 2 connectors on the control board and 1 on the pump motor � be sure to remove those first. 
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8. From front, carefully cut the glued spots where the door seal is glued to the front panel and remove the fill spout holder clip. The tools used is a piece of copper tubing flattened down. I use a wire tie to reinstall as the metal clip can be a pain to work with!
9. Drum should just be hanging from 2 large springs. Remove the clips/spring holders that go over the top of the springs so they can be lifted and removed from the washer. Start on either side, lift spring, move toward center and lower to disconnect drum from the frame. Completely remove spring. Repeat on the other side. Drum should now be sitting on the supports. 
10. From above, lift drum and slide out the rear. Leaves you with an empty cabinet.
11. Lay drum on front face on a blanket or sheet and start to remove screws that hold halves together. Once all screws are out, the back half with pulley (top half if sitting on face) easily lifts up from the other half. 
12. Remove and replace tub gasket seal. New seal will appear thicker than old one. The old seal can be picked out with a small flat screwdriver.
Assembly. 
13.  Place supports in bottom of washer. Lift and slide drum back into place on top of supports. 
14. I use a zip/wire tie to go around the water fill tube where the spring clip was and then cut the leftover tail off of the zip/wire tie. I remove the 2 screws holding the plastic hose in place to make installing the wire tie easier. Push the rubber boot over the plastic hose and use the wire tie to secure the boot to the plastic hose. Helps to install drum support springs (big ones on top) first.
15. Install safety clips back over springs. Glue the top hose back into place.
16. Front assembly reverse of disassembly. 
17. Back and Motor assemble reverse of disassembly. 
18. Finally, pull the boot over the front of washer. Don't do this until drum is in fully, or the boot might not end up on straight and might twist a bit. Small spots are re-glued again in place, super glue works well for this.. Spot glue at the 12 o'clock, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8 and 9 o'clock positions around the opening.
19. Put on back and top. 
20. Run load, check for leaks. Note: back panel is structural and should be on for a load to be run. 
21. Should be done. Total time 3+ hours. I hope this helps anyone who has to get into the Frigidaire -Kenmore ( 417.###### ) front loader and replace the seal/tub bearing&shell or inner basket. 
Bearing and Seal notes: 
 
Tips for removal / replacement of inner tub....
 
1. After removing the back panel and drive belt, remove the pulley from the shaft. The bolt is removed easily, but we often have to gently pry around the base of the pulley to remove it (unless you have a puller). The pulley is very light and the metal is soft, so be very careful that you do not damage or bend it while prying.2. The inner tub will lift out once you have split the outer drum halves.
3. Remove the 3 tumbling fins from the old inner tub. The new tub will not include these, so you'll need to reinstall the old ones. They are held on by one or to screws each. *Careful* of the outside of the wash basket as it is VERY sharp!!

May 07, 2009 | Washing Machines

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