At Fixya.com, our trusted experts are meticulously vetted and possess extensive experience in their respective fields. Backed by a community of knowledgeable professionals, our platform ensures that the solutions provided are thoroughly researched and validated.
I have a kenwood KAC-8101D amp and about 2 weeks ago the bass started to cut out but i though it was because i was using a conver box for the rca's so i found the deck i wanted and i installed it and it started doing the same thing excep now i dont have any bass at all before it would cut out for few seconds and come back but now nothing the power light is on and i rewired the subs from the box out and i wanted to know if my amp is toast because if it is im just going to get a new one because its under warantee. thanks in advance
thanks for the tip but what has me puzzled is that when the amp did cut back in the subs sounded fine no distortion thats y i dont think its a sub problem and the oter reason is because the power light is on for the amp thats why i dont think its a ground issue... any other suggestions would be greatly but im going to check the ground wire but i dont have a multimeter.. but when i get one i am suppost to set it to ohms correct .. if im wrong please let me know thanks alotthanks for the tip but what has me puzzled is that when the amp did cut back in the subs sounded fine no distortion thats y i dont think its a sub problem and the oter reason is because the power light is on for the amp thats why i dont think its a ground issue... any other suggestions would be greatly but im going to check the ground wire but i dont have a multimeter.. but when i get one i am suppost to set it to ohms correct .. if im wrong please let me know thanks alot
Thanks for the tip but i checked the ground yesterday and it was good and its in a spot where it cant rust. and no the head lights dont dim when the bass hits.. but now the bass isent working at all its completely dead but the power light is still on that why im thinking i blew the channel but i wanna know how i can test it for sure because if it is the problem then i will just return the amp so thanks againThanks for the tip but i checked the ground yesterday and it was good and its in a spot where it cant rust. and no the head lights dont dim when the bass hits.. but now the bass isent working at all its completely dead but the power light is still on that why im thinking i blew the channel but i wanna know how i can test it for sure because if it is the problem then i will just return the amp so thanks again
You can't post conmments that contain an email address.
1st make sure the speakers are not bad, check th eimpedance with a multimeter, the voice ciols should read 3.9 to 4.3 ohm's. if any of your subs are below this most likly the subs are bad. if they are ok make sure the ground for the amp is good. now the last thing is the amp. try another pair of speakers, even if it's smaller ones, just make sure they are 4 ohm speakers, keep the vol. very low during your test. if the other speakers do not work then have your amp serviced or replaced. good luck
if it's an intermittent ground problem, using an ohm meter will not help, just make sure the location you hooked up your ground wire has no rust around it. ( rust, even a little can cause intermittent problems). Does your headlight dim very low. when you get a lot of base. if so you could have an power supply problem in the car/truck. that little light on the amp may not go out, but if the B+/ positive voltage drops to low the amp will trun off & on again without the led on the amp going out.if it's an intermittent ground problem, using an ohm meter will not help, just make sure the location you hooked up your ground wire has no rust around it. ( rust, even a little can cause intermittent problems). Does your headlight dim very low. when you get a lot of base. if so you could have an power supply problem in the car/truck. that little light on the amp may not go out, but if the B+/ positive voltage drops to low the amp will trun off & on again without the led on the amp going out.
remove the screws from the bottom of the amp, you should find a bank of transistors on each side. there will be small ones & bigger ones. the bigger ones are your audio o/p. using a digital multimeter, test to see if the pins of the bigger transistors are shorted. the transistors work in pairs & would have to be replaced as such.remove the screws from the bottom of the amp, you should find a bank of transistors on each side. there will be small ones & bigger ones. the bigger ones are your audio o/p. using a digital multimeter, test to see if the pins of the bigger transistors are shorted. the transistors work in pairs & would have to be replaced as such.
You can't post conmments that contain an email address.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
it sounds like the power wire might be grounding out somewhere that you dont know of it could be by the fuse link so I would say put electrical tape on any exposed wire on the fuse link first if that don't work try change the power wire.
Yes, that would be the best connection for both the subs and the amp.
I'd wire the sub voice coils in series since the amp will not be stable at 2 ohms when the channels are bridged. The power will be somewhere between 100-200 watts RMS to each sub. While it's not pavement pounding, it should provide pretty good bass, especially if you tweak the crossover and boost settings for best bass response.
When you say the 40 Amp fuse blew. Was it your mains battery fuse or was it the fuse on the amplifier? If it was the fuse on the amplifier then you may have hurt the amplifier. The Kenwood KAC-8101D is a 1000 Watt monoblock amplifier. Therefore if you say that 1 of your woofers is not playing, then it is almost certainly blown if you are sure it is connected correctly. Try disconnecting it and only running the woofer that tries to play. If this woofer is still working correctly, you will notice a drastic drop if the sound of your bass. The reason for this is because you have changed the impedance load on your amplifier due to the fact that the other woofer is not working. Have your working woofer checked and replace the faulty woofer then you should be banging again.
thanks for the tip but what has me puzzled is that when the amp did cut back in the subs sounded fine no distortion thats y i dont think its a sub problem and the oter reason is because the power light is on for the amp thats why i dont think its a ground issue... any other suggestions would be greatly but im going to check the ground wire but i dont have a multimeter.. but when i get one i am suppost to set it to ohms correct .. if im wrong please let me know thanks alot
Thanks for the tip but i checked the ground yesterday and it was good and its in a spot where it cant rust. and no the head lights dont dim when the bass hits.. but now the bass isent working at all its completely dead but the power light is still on that why im thinking i blew the channel but i wanna know how i can test it for sure because if it is the problem then i will just return the amp so thanks again
×