Question about Mitsubishi WS-65511 65" Rear Projection Television
I think squirt enjoys loquacious and overly pedantic meanderings. Bottom line. The DLP lamp is going out and needs to be replaced. I want to recommend the following company, because they were cool enough to walk us through the whole thing over the phone. If you have dlp lamp problems go to their site. dlp lamp replacement
Posted on Sep 27, 2008
Mitsubishi Caps cause dim Picture faulty capacitor issue in the WD-52525 does seem to be prevalent at the 3 yr mark. At the bottom of this long-winded comment is a link to another discussion forum similar to this one where we obtained the service manual, chassis replacement manual, and encouragement to attempt the repair ourselves. My husband and I are not experts by any means, but my husband did have the tools from previous electronics projects to solder. So we took a chance on looking for bad caps. And I am here to say that I’m so glad we did because there were 2 obviously swollen caps that were easy to replace. The picture is now even better than when the problem first occurred since we dusted the mirrors and screens while we were in there. NO WINDEX. Just a dry micro-fiber cloth did the trick. We'll probably do that annually going forward.
According to descriptions from several people, the symptoms and degrading image due to capacitor failure can take various forms. In our case, we had a lamp blow out 2 wks before the TV died. And I do mean blow out, not burn out. We didn't get any lamp replacement warning. It flat out blew the 1-yr old bulb to shards of glass inside the casing. We replaced the bulb with a brand new one like good stewards of a DLP HDTV should do. A mere couple of weeks later we watched the image degrade over the course of an hour through various stages until the new lamp simply wouldn't light anymore and there was a solid black screen and solid red lamp light even though the lamp itself was fine. The trouble-shooting diagnostics (pressing MENU and DEVICE buttons on the front panel) gave the 3-4 code indicating a lamp abnormality. But ultimately the problem was solved by replacing the C9A37 & C9A38 caps (both are 10V 3300M-M 105C). We did not have to do any repairs on lamp or ballast components. The cost of 2 new capacitors from Digi-Key including shipping was about $14.50.
Some folks have stated that they were able to do the repair without removing the power supply chassis from the back of the TV. That was not the case for us. It was a bit intimidating at first. But we disassembled everything, labeling as we went, so we could freely inspect and access all boards on the power supply. There are some tiny, very hard-to-reach connections between the power supply and the ballast. For this reason, I also recommend disassembling those ballast components from the frame. They're simply too fragile to force in a very tight space when reconnecting.
Lastly, I am still pleased with this TV. The color and clarity can not be rivaled in my opinion. Even after having gone through this, compared to the problems reported in some of the other threads on issues with whatever other brand name or model you pick, this is a relatively easy repair that can be DIY. This was why we went DLP in the first place. And it is why we will probably remain DLP fans until they aren't made anymore. But next time, we’ll go with an extended warranty for sure!
I do wish Mitsubishi would at least acknowledge the issue. I don't even expect any reimbursement, replacement, refund or anything like that. I'd just like to know that THEY know there's a simple problem to resolve and that they're doing something about it.
Posted on Feb 25, 2008
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