When I open the door of the microwave the circuit breaker for the wall socket into which the microwave is plugged pops. This also happens if I have the microwave door opened with it unplugged and then plug it into the wall outlet. If I start with the microwave unplugged, and the door closed, then plug it into the wall and turn it on without ever opening the door it works fine.
After reading a bunch of your problem diagnosis (and safety warnings) this sounds like a door or other interlock switch problem. I have removed the cover of the microwave, and know how to replace any/all of the switches. What I am not clear on is, if there is a bad switch in the unit, why would it cause a breaker to pop instead of just keeping the magnetron or the entire unit from coming on?
I can't see any evidenc of any arcing or any burned smell on any of the wiring.
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Re: Home Circuit Breaker Pops When Door Is Opened
It does sound odd for it to blow the breaker. It should blow the fuse, not the breaker.
But looking at the exploded view diagram, I don't even see a fuse!
Makes me wonder if this is some foreign model. *grin*
In any event, you will need to replace all the door switches since they all have been stressed by the same overcurrent.
Also be sure that all the switch mount and door latch parts are activating properly when you open and close the door.
The switches (generic replacements) are widely available from local appliance parts stores.
If you need any other parts, you can see an exploded view and parts list here:
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they use a lot of power and should have it's own outlet, try plugging it in to the same plug as refrigerator, it's a double circuit and will have the power to supply both units, there should also be another plug in kitchen that is double circuit, keep trying different plug to you find it..
double circuit means top has 1 breaker and bottom is on another breaker
The location of the circuit breaker will depend on the house, or building that you're in. Generally, they will be all together, often in a stairwell or a garage/basement wall that won't be obstructed. If the electrician followed code, the breakers should have labels on the inside of the breaker panel door, telling you which breaker or breakers service the kitchen. Often, if the microwave is an installed type, it'll have it's own 15 or 20 amp breaker.
go to the qualified electricians on your place... but there is some helpful tips that can help you.. (1) for continued protection before starting. turn off the main circuit breaker. (2) unplug all the appliances or equipment installed... (3) check all the wall socket outlet... look for any damages on the wall socket... if the wall socket outlet have no signs of burned or wet marked, try to turn on the circuit breaker. check if the problem is solved.. (4) if the wall socket outlet have a signs of burned or wet marked.. just replace that w/ the same type of socket... check also the appliances that may caused the problem... the easiest way to know is to look at the socket plug itself... ty
could use a little more detail.
when u have no display screen the solutions are.
* A fuse in your home may be blown or the circuit breaker tripped.
A. Replace fuse or reset circuit breaker
* Power surge.
A. Unplug the microwave oven, then plug it back in.
* Plug not fully inserted into wall outlet
A. Make sure the 3-prong plug on the oven is fully inserted into wall outlet.
* Door not securely closed.
A. Open the door and close securely.
Thanks for responding. It is a EWave KOT-152UW. I think EWave is part
of Magic Chef. I think it is the door switch. When I opened the
microwave, the circuit breaker tripped. I reset the circuit breaker,
and it worked for several days, but the last time, the microwave went
dead. The reason I want to use the same bracket is it has through the
wall (horizontal) venting to the outside, and I am not keen on trying
to cut more holes.
After self cleaning the range the door won't open.... The oven door lock needs approximately 1 hour to cool down before the oven door can be opened after a self cleaning cycle has finished. If the lock does not open after the oven has cooled down, you can try....1) Unplugging the range or shut off the circuit breaker for 5 minutes. Plug the range back in or turn on the circuit breaker. Set the clock and try moving the door lock lever or opening the door. 2) Set the self-clean cycle again and only allow it to work for 15 minutes. Cancel the self-clean cycle and allow the oven to cool. Gently try moving the door lock lever or opening the door.
I've had this problem twice with our microwave. The hint to where the problem lies is that the breaker blows when you open the door at times. Inside the microwave are three microswitches; primary and secondary interlock micro switches and an Interlock Monitor switch. The switches are supposed to shut down the microwave if it is running and the door is opened. But, I've found the upper primary switch can stick internal at times and when the door is opened the stuck switch will, because of the way it is wired as a safety switch, cause either the fuse or possibly the main circuit breaker for the oven to pop. The reason the stuck switch blows the breaker or fuse is when the door is opened the interlock switch will cause the neutral wire from the AC power to be applied to the Upper Primary Interlock switch which normally should be open when the door is opened, but if the switch is intermittent or the contacts weld themselves shut the neutral line is connected direct to the "hot" side of the power line through the fuse and thermostat. The first time my microwave failed the switch had melted the contacts together inside the switch and the second time the switch became intermittent and would blow the breaker to the over ever so often. I suspected the switch the second time this happened and utilizing an ohm meter I checked the switch several times by opening and closing the door and once in a while it would remain closed instead of opening when the door was opened. Of course while trouble shooting the power cord to the microwave must be disconnected and use all safety precautions when working around the high voltage areas inside the microwave. I wrote Jenn-Air about the bad switch and the way it is wired into the circuit, but never received any acknowledgement. I suspect these microswitches are under rated for the amount of current that passes through the switch, thus they overheat and eventually arc the contacts together. I hope this helps explain the intermittent problem and could explain many of the intermittent blown fuse problems I see in these internet help sessions
Check what other appliances are on your circuit. What goes off when the breaker is tripped. You may need to relocate the microwave to a different circuit. Try to stay away from the refrigerator or AC circuits.