Question about Thermador RDDS30 Dual Fuel (Electric and Gas) Kitchen Range

4 Answers

One of the Burners does not light.

The left rear burner does not work and it is not the electronic igniter as there is spark there. The burner is not getting gas. All the other burners work fine.

Posted by Richard Sermon on

  • 3 more comments 
  • Richard Sermon Dec 23, 2006

    What a grat web site and Rotu is indeed a guru! His solution is easy to understand and i am going to attempt the repair myself. I may submit another problem if i cannot figure out how to proceed. Thanks for the help.

  • tropical63 Jun 29, 2008

    3 burners won't lite but when one of the burners that do lite, is in the ignite position all ignitors ignite at the same time.also when one of the 3 burners that are able to lite is in use the burner that also works will not lite at the same time. thanks for your time. Confused

  • akorbel Nov 20, 2008

    My rear left burner on my Thermador RDFS30 cooktop has never worked. The electric ignition sparks but no gas. I have a day off to try to fix the problem and it's very inviting to put a wrench on the hexnut and turn it or try to remove and clean it, but I need advice first.

  • Anonymous Jan 29, 2009

    Left rear element sparks , but gas clearly is not coming out of this burner. I will check out the 2 solutions suggested by Rotu.

  • Anonymous Mar 12, 2014

    When plugged back in the electronic ignition is not working.. There is gas.

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4 Answers

alex Stahl

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I have the same problem and just took the cooktop apart to investigate. I disconnected the solenoid lines from the simmer controller (that is located under a metal guard to the right side under the burners) and checked them with an ohmmeter. It reads an open circuit, which suggest the solenoid is bad. When I turn the control knob on, I also read about 100V DC on the corresponding solenoid terminals of the simmer controller. I was surprised it was that high for a DC voltage, does anyone know if that is correct? I would hate to spend $90 on a replacement solenoid valve and then have it blow because the controller is putting out too much juice.

Posted on Feb 20, 2007

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  • alex Stahl Feb 20, 2007

    I have the same problem and took the cooktop apart tonight to investigate. I disconnected the solenoid lines from the simmer controller (that is located under a metal guard to the right side under the burners) and checked them with an ohmmeter. It reads an open circuit, which suggest the solenoid is bad.

    When I turn the control knob on, I also read about 100V DC on the corresponding solenoid terminals of the simmer controller. I was surprised it was that high for a DC voltage, does anyone know if that is correct? I would hate to spend $90 on a replacement solenoid valve and then have it blow because the controller is putting out too much juice.

    For now, I have bypassed the solenoid and the burner works again but without the XLo feature.

  • alex Stahl Feb 20, 2007

    Following up on my recent post...I found wiring diagrams at appliancepartspros.com and saw that there is a switch in series with the solenoid. Hmm, maybe the switch was causing the open circuit reading...
    This switch is part of the potentiometer that slides over the burner control valve shaft. I took that apart and found that the switch contacts were dirty, cleaned them, and now it's all working again! No expensive solenoids or controllers to replace after all, yay!
    The construction of the pot makes it very likely that if you clean the glass front panel by pulling the knobs off and spraying the glass, the cleaning spray will hit the pot (and possibly carry some gunk with it). I'll be a lot more careful from now on not to let anything get inside the hole around the shaft that the knob attaches to!

  • David Green Mar 16, 2014

    Alex, how did you bypass the solenoid?

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Anonymous

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My middle rear XLO burner is not working. You can order a Thermador simmer control kit with 2 XLO potentiometers and the ignition control module for about $200 or individual potentiometers for about $20. You have to take the top off to replace these. The potentiometers fit around the valve stem below the knobs. They probably got liquid in them when you took off the knobs to clean. It may be possible to clean the contacts on the old one. New, improved part is Bosch #422748 potentiometer for most models with XLO burners. Don't mess with the gas lines and solenoids.

Posted on Jun 19, 2009

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Anonymous

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I have the same problem. Left rear burner, no gas. It is the XLO burner. I think its one of 3 things as mentioned below a) Burner Valve b) Bad gas solenoid or Bad gas controller. Not sure how to get started....Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Posted on Jan 30, 2007

Douglas Henry

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There's really only three things this could be if the spark igniter is working. The burner valve is broken internally and not letting gas through, or the burner cap is not on correctly and so the gas mixture is wrong and won't ignite. Usually the burner top just gets set askew and needs to be righted so the burner can work properly. If in fact there is no gas at all coming out, you will need to replace the burner valve. The third thing it could be is only if you are having this problem on one of the burners has the X-LO feature (turns the flame on and off in simmer mode) it could be a bad gas solenoid, or controller. These X-Lo systems are quite complicated and it may be worth your time to pay a thermadore servicer to check it out if its not a simple fix. Hope this is of some help.

Posted on Dec 21, 2006

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