Won't Spin and Not the Drive Coupler

Look for a blown capacitor if the other components are all fine.

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

When he puts it into spin, does the water drain? If so, the pump is fine, as far as it not spinning, that is most likely either the coupler between the motor and the transmission, or the transmission itself.

To check the coupler, drain the washer, then pull the washer away from the wall and tilt it back on it's hind legs. Check to see that the rubber part of the coupler is intact and that the plastic parts are not stripped. Here's some pictures of the coupler http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Motor-Coupling/285753A/1195967

If the coupling is fine, and the motor is turning, then it's most likely the transmission, which you'd be best served having an appliance shop replace.

Hope this helps.

Hello,

Its going to be the coupler very likely..your washer uses a coupler and does not have a belt.

This tip i wrote will help to show ya how to replace the coupler
http://www.fixya.com/support/r10293994-whirlpool_made_washer_not_agatating


GENE

this is a direct drive washer the reason your unit is depending on if your hearing the motor running or not would either be the motor which i do not think it is or the drive coupler which connects the motor to the transmission and lets the unit spin here is also a video on how to do the repair for the drive coupler if when you disassemble you find the drive coupler intact and not broken message me back then for further diagnosis Thanks again heres you video http://www.youtube.com/user/RepairClinic?v=9K1KHEogf3c&feature=pyv&ad=5457341501&kw=washing%20machine%20coupler
Rick

Hi, if clothes are wet after spinning, check.......
Motor coupler To test the motor coupler, re-start the washer in its spin cycle. Let the machine run for a minute, and then open the lid and notice whether the tub is spinning: If it's spinning when you lift the lid, the coupler is fine. If it isn't spinning--and your machine was produced by Whirlpool you may have a broken coupler. Many Whirlpool-made washers use a small, relatively inexpensive device called a motor coupling. This plastic-and-rubber component is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. When that happens, you need to replace it completely.

Spin cycle If the washer doesn't reach its proper spin speed, the clothes may be too wet at the end of a cycle. Check to be sure the load is properly balanced and run a spin cycle again. If the clothes are still wet, you may have a worn or loose belt (Maytag), a worn clutch (GE/Hotpoint), or a worn motor pulley or tub bearing. Replace the applicable component. Alternatively, there could be clothes caught between the inner and outer tubs. Read the "It spins but won't pump" section of the "It won't drain" section. Also, there could be other things that cause friction on the drive train. Seek the assistance of a qualified appliance repair technician.

Siphoning If the water that pumps from the machine goes right back into the machine after the spin cycle, it may be because your washer is siphoning the water from a laundry tub with a slow drain, back into the washer. Try to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is there something stuck in the drain?) Also, be sure the drain hose doesn't reach more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub. If it does, cut off the excess.

Water-inlet valve Water-inlet valves eventually fail. One problem that may develop with a water-inlet valve is that it can no longer completely shut off when the electricity is turned off to it. Then, the valve may leak and drip water into the clothes tub--you may notice that your washer has water in it when you haven't used it for a few days. To fix this, replace the valve.

If the coupling is OK then the problem is most likely to be further up the drive-line, which means the gearbox has probably failed. .........Nomess

If the coupler is ok then the next thing to check is the brake/ basket drive cam driver, the ear breaks off on em and won't release the brake. You must remove the agitator and drop the tranny to check it
Nothing is difficult about repairing the washer. I have repair photos HERE


If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

If the coupler is definitely intact then yes the problem would be in the transmission or clutch. The clutch is the silver peice mounted on top of the transmission part#285785. If you put the unit into spin and tip it back and can see the clutch spinning then problem is probably just your clutch. If you see a lot of oil dripping then you would need transmission and clutch which come as an assembly. I think part number is 3360629. Also make sure the center of the coupler is not bored out where is slips on the transmission and motor shafts. Hope this helps _MJ_

http://appliancejunk.com/forums/index.php?topic=3437.0
Yes, you have a direct drive coupling problem. Use this video to replace your part.
EZPZ.

Your symptoms that indicates a broken motor coupler. If your washer will drain and fill but has not agitation action or spinning action that would indicate a broken motor coupler. The motor coupler links the drive motor to the transmission.