Extra water My machine keeps leaking water into the tank with or wiithout the door being closed. It is water from the hoses and not the drain. I know this because I have cought it in the act. At first I thought that it was a vacuum pull but it as recently done this with the door open soaking the floor and rug in front of the washer.

Is there water still in the tub? If the main control thinks there's water in tub, the control will keep door locked. If there's water, you might have a possible draining issue. Either clogged drain pump or something clogging drain hose. If no water, possible door lock malfunction or pressure switch malfunction. Good luck!

Try to identify roughly the area the leak is coming from. This will eleminate some of the following

Hose Connections
Check the rubber washers or replace if the hoses are leaking at the WATER INLET valve

Door Seal
This is a common place for leaks. Carefully check by partially pulling seal inside out and check for punctures, pens, pencils... Additionaly if the door is not closing properly it may need a door adjustment. This can easily be done by loosening the hinge bolts on the front panel, adjusting and retighten. The seal is also known to get lightly snagged by zippers or rub by heavy items when close are being removed. This tends to cause the seal to get damaged at the six o'clock position. This is sometimes hardly noticeable but if it is leaking from the bottom of the door replace door seal.

Water Inlet Valve
If the hose connections are good to the water inlet valve check that water is not leaking from the valve itself it is replace inlet water valve

Drain Pump
Check the drain pump housing and all hose connections. The drain pump is behind the lower panel, behind the back panel, and sometimes removal of the front panel. Hoses can be tightened. If hoses or pump housing is leaking replace pump .

Outer Drum
The outer drum is 2 halves bolted together some washers have a seal between others do not. If the washer is leaking between the seems disassembly of the washer will be necessary. The top panel, console, front panel, door seal, struts.

Hi,

It may be that the drain line in the back that allows the water to drain from the self-defrosting freezer has become blocked. You can take the hose loose and **** it clean with a wet-dry vac .If you are careful, you might be able to break up the plug with a straightened-out coat hanger but you need to be careful to not poke a hole through the hose.

Also this type of problem can be caused by warm moist air being drawn into the refrigerator through a leak in the door seal. The air cools, and the moisture condenses into water and collects at the bottom.

Normally the interior of a refrigerator is lower in pressure and humidity than outside. That helps keep the door closed. If there is a leak in the door seal, then warm air can get in, and so can extra moisture.

Try inspecting your door seals, and clean both the rubber seals on the door, and the door jams that they rest against when the door is closed. That might be enough to prevent the leak.

Please accept the solution if it's helpful. Do get back to us for any further query.

Thanks for contacting fixya.com

Top 10 frontload washer problems

1)Water fill problem: water took more than 10 minutes to fill to desired level sometimes indicated as a LF/IE or long fill/inlet error. Water valve screens clogged, hoses kinked, low water pressure, unpaid water bill. Check hose, clean screens.
2)Excessive vibration: noisey,roar, knocking noises. Bad damper,bearing or broken trunnion. no error code
3)Dispenser drawer open/detergent in wrong compartment: washer will not operate with drawer open or cleaning products in wrong compartment.
4)Washer won't drain: clogged pump/filter, slow or clogged drain usually indicated as a LD/DE, if a code is given (long drain/drain error) Clear pump of objects
5)Drum overfilled: usually caused by sediment in the water level pressure sensing tube going up to the main control.Find it and blow out the sediment, re-secure pump out water and retry.
6)Door open, Door not latched, clothes/objects keeping door from completely closing. Tighten door latch, add washers if nessisary to make good contact and close door tighter in case of leaks.Note some models send a signal to the motor and another to the control letting both know the door is secure before proceeding, corrosion gets into the lid lock and the door can be locked and the control is ready but the motor ain't getting the message.
7)Cold water does not enter washer: hoses connected backwards. Oops.
8)Oversudsing: Wrong Detergent, too much detergent, detergent in wrong dispensing drawer, turbidity monitors pick up particles in the water and judge soil content then the washer allows for extra time to wash the clothes, if the wrong detergent is in there the machine thinks that is too much and declares a suds error. On some models a suds detect is determined by the motor over amping, most machines will try a few mini loads to correct the problem. Remove detergent, retry
9)Locked motor: error LE,loose connection,broken wire/hallsensor, motor overheated/failed.
10)Water heating error, hE, the thermister/heater is out.



If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

Top 10 frontload washer problems

1)Water fill problem: water took more than 10 minutes to fill to desired level sometimes indicated as a LF/IE or long fill/inlet error. Water valve screens clogged, hoses kinked, low water pressure, unpaid water bill. Check hose, clean screens.
2)Excessive vibration: noisey,roar, knocking noises. Bad damper,bearing or broken trunion. no error code
3)Dispenser drawer open/detergent in wrong compartment: washer will not operate with drawer open or cleaning products in wrong compartment.
4)Washer won't drain: clogged pump/filter, slow or clogged drain usually indicated as a LD/DE, if a code is given (long drain/drain error) Clear pump of objects
5)Drum overfilled: usually caused by sediment in the water level pressure sensing tube going up to the main control.Find it and blow out the sediment, re-secure pump out water and retry.
6)Door open, Door not latched, clothes/objects keeping door from completly closing. Tighten door latch, add washers if nessesary to make good contact and close door tighter in case of leaks.Note some models send a sig nal to the motor and another to the control letting both know the door is secure before proceeding, corrosion gets into the lid lock and the door can be locked and the control is ready but the motor ain't getting the message.
7)Cold water does not enter washer: hoses connected backwards. Oops.
8)Oversudsing: Wrong Detergent, too much detergen, detergent in wrong dispensing drawer, turbidity monitors pick up particles in the water and judge soil content then the washer allows for extra time to wash the clothes, if the wrong detergent is in there the machine thinks that is too much and declares a suds error. On some models a suds detect is determined by the motor over amping, most machines will try a few mini loads to correct the problem. Remove detergent, retry
9)Locked motor: error LE,loose connection,broken wire/hallsensor, motor overheated/failed.
10)Water heating error, hE, the termister/heater is out.

Your repair Manual with photos and tech data HERE
I will leave that on there for a while but it takes up broadband so print that manual out and keep it close to that washer.


If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

Top 10 frontload washer problems

1)Water fill problem: water took more than 10 minutes to fill to desired level sometimes indicated as a LF/IE or long fill/inlet error. Water valve screens clogged, hoses kinked, low water pressure, unpaid water bill. Check hose, clean screens.
2)Excessive vibration: noisey,roar, knocking noises. Bad damper,bearing or broken trunion. no error code
3)Dispenser drawer open/detergent in wrong compartment: washer will not operate with drawer open or cleaning products in wrong compartment.
4)Washer won't drain: clogged pump/filter, slow or clogged drain usually indicated as a LD/DE, if a code is given (long drain/drain error) Clear pump of objects
5)Drum overfilled: usually caused by sediment in the water level pressure sensing tube going up to the main control.Find it and blow out the sediment, re-secure pump out water and retry.
6)Door open, Door not latched, clothes/objects keeping door from completly closing. Tighten door latch, add washers if nessesary to make good contact and close door tighter in case of leaks.Note some models send a sig nal to the motor and another to the control letting both know the door is secure before proceeding, corrosion gets into the lid lock and the door can be locked and the control is ready but the motor ain't getting the message.
7)Cold water does not enter washer: hoses connected backwards. Oops.
8)Oversudsing: Wrong Detergent, too much detergen, detergent in wrong dispensing drawer, turbidity monitors pick up particles in the water and judge soil content then the washer allows for extra time to wash the clothes, if the wrong detergent is in there the machine thinks that is too much and declares a suds error. On some models a suds detect is determined by the motor over amping, most machines will try a few mini loads to correct the problem. Remove detergent, retry
9)Locked motor: error LE,loose connection,broken wire/hallsensor, motor overheated/failed.
10)Water heating error, hE, the termister/heater is out.




If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

Top 10 front-load washer problems

1)Water fill problem: water took more than 10 minutes to fill to desired level sometimes indicated as a LF/IE or long fill/inlet error. Water valve screens clogged, hoses kinked, low water pressure, unpaid water bill. Check hose, clean screens.
2)Excessive vibration: noisy,roar, knocking noises. Bad damper,bearing or broken trunnion. no error code
3)Dispenser drawer open/detergent in wrong compartment: washer will not operate with drawer open or cleaning products in wrong compartment.
4)Washer won't drain: clogged pump/filter, slow or clogged drain usually indicated as a LD/DE, if a code is given (long drain/drain error) Clear pump of objects
5)Drum overfilled: usually caused by sediment in the water level pressure sensing tube going up to the main control.Find it and blow out the sediment, re-secure pump out water and retry.
6)Door open, Door not latched, clothes/objects keeping door from completely closing. Tighten door latch, add washers if nesessary to make good contact and close door tighter in case of leaks.Note some models send a signal to the motor and another to the control letting both know the door is secure before proceeding, corrosion gets into the lid lock and the door can be locked and the control is ready but the motor ain't getting the message.
7)Cold water does not enter washer: hoses connected backwards. Oops.
8)Over-sudsing: Wrong Detergent, too much detergent, detergent in wrong dispensing drawer, turbidity monitors pick up particles in the water and judge soil content then the washer allows for extra time to wash the clothes, if the wrong detergent is in there the machine thinks that is too much and declares a suds error. On some models a suds detect is determined by the motor over amping, most machines will try a few mini loads to correct the problem. Remove detergent, retry
9)Locked motor: error LE,loose connection,broken wire/hallsensor, motor overheated/failed.
10)Water heating error, hE, the thermister/heater is out.



If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

Either you have too much of the correct detergent in there or the wrong detergent in there. Here are a few of the errors:
1)Water fill problem: water took more than 10 minutes to fill to desired level sometimes indicated as a LF/IE or long fill/inlet error. Water valve screens clogged, hoses kinked, low water pressure, unpaid water bill. Check hose, clean screens.
2)Excessive vibration: noisey,roar, knocking noises. Bad damper,bearing or broken trunion. no error code
3)Dispenser drawer open/detergent in wrong compartment: washer will not operate with drawer open or cleaning products in wrong compartment.
4)Washer won't drain: clogged pump/filter, slow or clogged drain usually indicated as a LD/DE, if a code is given (long drain/drain error) Clear pump of objects
5)Drum overfilled: usually caused by sediment in the water level pressure sensing tube going up to the main control.Find it and blow out the sediment, re-secure pump out water and retry.
6)Door open, Door not latched, clothes/objects keeping door from completly closing. Tighten door latch, add washers if nessesary to make good contact and close door tighter in case of leaks.
7)Cold water does not enter washer: hoses connected backwards. Oops.
8)Oversudsing: Wrong Detergent, turbidity monitors pick up particles in the water and judge soil content then the washer allows for extra time to wash the clothes, if the wrong detergent is in there the machine thinks that is too much and declares a suds error. Remove detergent, retry
9)Locked motor: error LE,loose connection,broken wire/hallsensor, motor overheated/failed.
10)Water heating error, hE, the thermister/heater is out.



If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

I found this and it also may have to do with the door seals...how old is the unit...if door seals get old and stiff..(not soft and pliable) they sometimes leak...after usage the heat and moisture may cause them to swell and or become soft thereby sealing better...but this is what I found in the user manual.

Machine displays "E7" on LX30 model or "CLEAN PROBE" on LX40 model.
1. Clean water sensors inside tank.
It suggests contacting Hobart if this fails but I also found this problem is associated with fill issues...as in an E4 error...this what you do in that case....

Machine won't fill or won't fill high enough(LX18, LX30 display shows "E0," "E2," "E3," or "E4")

1.Low water pressure — check for clogged hose strainer; check that site water pressure meets minimum flow pressures.
2.Make sure probes are clean.
3.No water pressure — main water supply valves may not be working.
4.Drain valve open - turn machine off to drain machine, then on. Repeat twice (this assists in clearing any drain valve obstructions). Wait for machine to reach READY mode and press WASH. Slowly open door several seconds later and note water level. Close door; 30 seconds later, open door slowly and check that water level is the same as it was. If not, repeat the
OFF-ON procedure.
5. Delime machine.

Good Luck and I hope this helps...let me know if it doesn't and i am sure I can get to the bottom of it...thanks for rating my effort...the Fang.

Cut off the zip tie that holds the drain tube. Bring the drain tube as close to the ground as possible and siphon out the water - yes, that means sucking on that hose. Have a bowl handy to collect the water, or do it somewhere you don't mind getting wet. Just keep the end of the hose lower than the basin of water and you should have no problems.