Very near the end of the drying cycle, the DW appears to have tripped a circuit breaker (not Earth leakage trip). After untripping the breaker, the DW does not indicate any power to the device and so no longer operates.
Is there a fuse on these machines that might also have blown? If so where is it and how do I replace it?
I have seen the responses about water leakages causing Earth leakage trip outs, but this does not appear to have happened in this case.
OK, I got the repair man around and the LED circuit board had blown and taken the door close sensor switch out with it. We have a working DW again.OK, I got the repair man around and the LED circuit board had blown and taken the door close sensor switch out with it. We have a working DW again.
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Sounds like a faulty heating element or NTC. Remove right hand side panel and look for water leaks near heat box. Try a multi meter on heating element and make sure it’s not shorting.
If you mean that the machine is tripping the circuit breaker then that is an indication that the water is creating an electrical current path to Earth. The heating element is normally enclosed in a metal sheath but if this is compromised then water will get in and current will then leak to earth, causing the circuit breaker to trip. The heating element can be replaced, but the cause of the damage to the element should also be determined to prevent it happening again. The rotating drum can become partially detached from it's mount and end up hitting the heating element when spinning, causing the element to be damaged. The drum mount (often called a SPIDER) may therefore also need replacing. If you machine was making a lot of knocking noises when in spin cycle then it would certainly indicate a broken mount.
Are you sure the breaker is big enough to carry the Amps needed to start the drying cycle. You know that due to inductance it takes almost twice as many amps to start a motor as it does to run it.Find out how many Watts it uses and divide it by 120VAC and it will give the maximum amps it will draw. See if the breaker is high enough amp for it. A 25 Amp breaker should be efficient. I hope this helps you and if I can help you in anyway in the future let me know.
How far into the cycle does it trip the breaker?Does the motor run then trip it?Is it at the end of the cycle when it goes to a dry cycle?Does it trip in the beginning when it fill's up with water?
Hello gcsounds,
If I understand your problem correctly, it appears that you have a ground fault ( or earth fault) that is causing your breaker to trip. I am assuming ( but don't know for sure ) that your dishwasher is hard wired into a junction box and that junction box is fed power from your circuit breaker panel. I am also assuming that the circuit breaker is either a Ground Fault Interupt ( GFI ) or standard type and that breaker is what you are saying is tripping with every wash cycle. There are some details that need to be filled in for me by you in order for me to fully understand your wiring scheme and suggest ways to resolve your problem. First off, can you provide details on how your dishwasher is wired ( as I suggested above or other) and secondly, what voltage are you running it at? If you are in the US then in all probability you are running your dishwasher at 120VAC @ 60 hz but if you aren't then please elaborate. Once I have that information, I may be able to assist diagnosing and resolving your problem.
Regards,
Rick
Check heating element in DW and all parts associated with it located on the inside of DW under the spray arm. It could also be a problem with the control panel,Call technician.
I have seen a lot of these older dishwasher break the wires running up to the timer. the break right near the bottom of the door where they flex when you open and close it. I would turn of the power, remove all the torx screws along the inside edges of the door, as well as the 2 on the bottom edge of the door facing up (you cant see them, just gotta feel around for them) and loosen the 2 on the top of the door near the latch ( so you can tilt the control panel out to remove the outer door) follow the wires from the timer down to the bottom of the door and see if any are broken or missing insulation. If not, take the bottom panel of the dishwasher as well and locate the 2 terminals hooked to the heater and check them with an ohmeter to see if they are grounded to the frame of the dishwasher. the dishwasher may be doing a heated rinse just before the dry cycle even though you have low temperature and no heated dry selected, so the problem may still be the heater. Good Luck!
OK, I got the repair man around and the LED circuit board had blown and taken the door close sensor switch out with it. We have a working DW again.
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