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Won't power on after local lightning strike

Lightning struck a tree 60 yds from the house. Several other items were toast. Possibly a voltage surge, maybe up through the ground, because the lights flickered on for a second. Usually, when you power on, a relay goes "thunk" inside and then the set comes on. Now nothing. When I pull the plug for a while, and re-plug it in, a tiny spark at the prongs shows current is going to the power supply, not to a blown fuse in the power supply. I took the back off carefully, and blew it off, then checked the barrel type fuse where the power cord is attached. It was good. I have a voltmeter, and can identify some basic things on the board. A technician said it's probably the power supply (duh) but I can't tell if it is mixed in with all the rest on the board, or separate and hid in with the buttons on the case. I'm willing to solder in a new transformer or capacitor if I can isolate the problem. It's only 2 years old, and I really want to keep it, but a service guy costs as much as new set. Please help!

Posted by Gary Anderson on

  • 1 more comment 
  • Gary Anderson Dec 13, 2006

    Some other people with similar problem were advised to check out the "flyback" transformer, which supplies high voltage to the picture tube, but as I am told, is responsible for many other things also. It appears pristene, and searching makes it a difficult item to obtain. Anybody got info that might put a light on this? Also, I note two coils of copper wire in a plastic retainer near the power imput. Each has two coils. Are these filters?--transformers?

  • hoofan Jan 02, 2008


  • termite733 Jul 11, 2008

    Exact same problem. Won't power on.



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With a lightning strick any thing can go. check diodes, dc fuse regulator and while U are at it check the horzontal output transistor

Posted on Dec 13, 2006


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Related Questions:


How do I diagnose and fix an LCD HDTV whose screen will not come on because of possible lightning strike?

needs circuit testing doubt you would actualy be able to see any damage to circuit boards doesn't take much of a power surge to knock one out tv engineer needed


Replace or have the powrer supply tested and eventually serviced.
Lightning strikes affect two types of boards in televisions - the power supply by means of entering through the AC line and main boards by means of entering from the external signal sources. External antennas are worst and can totally toast the main board whereas a signal entering through HDMI cable from another device is less likely to be affected by a power surge.
So naturally you start your quest with the power board , which is the usual suspect.

As of right now I do not believe we have an announced service for the power supply board of Sanyo LCD-24K50, but if you do not have any other options you can always try and send the power board for examination/repair through

Good luck!

Lightning struck my Bravia

your tv is shot ,im sorry to say that but its burnt

Our electricity went out for a few minutes, and since then the TV will not turn on. The green light is flashing. We tried resetting it by pushing a pen point into the reset hole, but it does nothing. ...

Your power outage may have been caused by a nearby lightning strike, or any number of
1000 different reasons that cause power surges, brown-outs, voltage spikes, inductive loading,
and/or utility pole breaker trips and resets (this accounts for your power loss (a pole breaker trip),
followed by restoration of power (the pole breaker automatically reset) - even plain old high electrical demand causing an overload due to air conditioning demands caused by hot weather.
When the pole breaker reset, your TV caught a power surge.
Whenever a power outage occurs, quickly power off (or better, unplug) any/all computers, TVs,
etc. that are not protected by surge-protection.
As an electrician, when someone loses an item of electronics concommitant to an electrical
anomaly, its almost
always traceable to a nearby lightning strike (or the power company provided equivalent), accompanied by inadequate surge protection for
the VCR/TV/Computer/Stereo/uninsured valuable electronic item/XBOX 360/Nintendo Wii.
Surge protection can
be provided by the consumer at the power strip (a good one with builtin MOV protection and a
warranty costs $20, whereas a zero-protection 4-outlet or 6-outlet power strip will cost $4-$5).
Your electrician can provide whole-house surge protection where a whole-house MOV-based (metal oxide varistor) surge protector, or per-circuit protection can be installed with
a GFCI breaker (or better, an AFCI breaker) can be installed.
GFCI = ground fault circuit interruptor
AFCI = Arc fault circuit interruptor
Lightning protection is especially important in Florida, which is the "lightning capital of the world."
I've never found a good solution to lightning-fried electronics (random power supply components are destroyed and/or fuse blown), other than renters insurance or homeowners insurance.

Your only real hope for an economical fix is to look for a blown fuse, and replace it.

If desperate to attempt a fix on your own, you could try replacing the entire TV power supply as a module, but even this provides
no guarantee of a fix - lightning damage can extend beyond the power supply.
When traveling, I will always unplug everything before I leave (except the security system),
and also turn off the breakers to unneeded house circuits (which kills the wall switches that
control interior lighting - forcing a burglar to use their flashlight instead of interior lighting)
which is the least convenient lightning protection, but highly effective, and cheap (free).

We had a tree struck by lightning last night. Now, our truck and sports car, parked 10 feet away, are both showing problems with charging system, (truck) and ABS, tracking system, and active handling...

Yes. Although the tires are suppose to insulate, there is enough humidity to allow the air to carry a charge. The ECM for example, can be interfered with by Radio frequencies. A lightning strike produces all kinds of freqencies beyond visible light.

You should document the tree strike and park your vehicles back into their spots if you do not already have photos of the tree damage showing the vehicles in the foreground or background.

This is comprehensive coverage with hidden damage discovered within a recent timeframe of the original event.

Will not heat baby food for 13 seconds

Depending on the amount of Joules your household/microwave received your low voltage control electronics may have been fried by the lightning strike. For your own safety I recommend a new microwave.

Nothing works.

Remote receiver got fried by the voltage spike. If you have pull chain controls as well, you can remove the receiver and possibly be able to save the fan, but the capacitors, may have also been fried. If the capacitors are fried, then most likely the motor experienced some seriously high voltage too, which would mean I would replace the fan. I assume you have had the house's wiring inspected? If lightning struck the house and killed the fan, then it likely ALSO damaged other electrical components. If the lightning struck your power transformer and not your home directly, you may can get the power company to pay for this ceiling fan as the transformer is supposed to have a lightning arrester on it.

My fridge was damage by high voltage of electricity is doesn't switch on at all ,Model sv2118si 660 litre Sumsung


When you say that your fridge/ white goods appliance was damaged by high voltage, we need to exactly what the voltage source was that did the deed.

If you are talking about a bigger voltage input source, from the mains suupply, then it is likely you would have had a fuse within the plug that would have blown. This should be the first thing you will check regardless of the voltage.

If however, you are telling me that your house took an in-direct or worse still a direct whack from a lightning strike, then my dear friend you have quite possibly a totally deceased appliance. For a start, such a strike could melt your plug and possibly socket. The fuse inside the plug wouldnt be a relevant factor here; because if the lightning made it from the sky to the ground, I am sure it can cross a 40mm gap within a plug. Then the lightning surge would simply travel up the power cord, knock out your gas pump, stepdown transformer and any lights or motors within the appliance. The cost of changing every part here is not worth it. You would be better off claiming on insurance or simply buying new.

there are a few ways you can investigate what has caused this, and possibly cure the fault, unless it is a lightning strike of course that is responsibe.

The first thing to do here is dismantle the mains electricity plug that is attached to the fridge. Check the small fuse inside this to see if it is functioning. You can do this in many ways. The best I find is to get a multimeter or the appropriate tester and perform a continuity test. See this link below

If the fuse is broken, then change it and repeat the test; YOU MUST replace the fuse with what the original one from the manufacturer was.

If the fuse is working, then your fault is elsewhere and you will need to perform the above tests on various components relevant to your fridge.

The worst case scenarioo is the lightning strike; and in order to identify this, you will need to do one or two simple things.

Firstly, head to your main consumer unit (fusebox) and check that all of the fuses are in the "closed" or "on" position. Open fuses indicate a power surge or a short circuuit somewhere on your supply, but relevant to your fridge. RCD circuit breakers all narrow down the searching to one localised area. You should also do this test for identification of original fault.. The same for when you as above check your main fuses.

If the fuses on the consumer unit are "open", then either replace them if you have to, or you simply either push them back in or move them to the "closed" position. Also check that the consumer unit is not damaged in any way, as you would expect from having too much electricity put through it. Fire damage, warping, blackening, discoluration, bent or broken components are all good indicators of this.

Another test you may have to do, is simply look around your house. Has anything else been effected. If it has, then it is likely that it was a lightning strike or something equally as damaging, if no, then it could simply have been a power surge that only really effected your fridge. Even so, is any of your other electronic and white goods items behaving oddly? TV menu keeps appearing or going into standby? Is the lights on your DVD player behaving erratic or does discs keep being ejected at atrange times? What about your computer or laptop; do these strangely start playing up? If so, then either the lightning strike is to blame or you have had a powersurge.

Once you have done theseinvestigations please let me know the outcome and if it is negative, Iwill gladly advise you further.

I look forward to hearing from you soon and hopethis is the fixya for you;

Yours sincerely



We had a near lightning strike and now my tv (sanyo model ht27744)doesn't want to come on.

Lightening may have caused a surge on your power lines to the house and to the outlet the TV was on.
Do other things work on that outlet? If not you tripped a power breaker.If they do work check this.
Unplug the TV for 2 min or more and plug back in.
Try bypassing your surge protector you had it plugged into. It could have died when the lightening struck.
(no surge protector?) Bet you'll buy one for your next TV.
Look for 3000 joules and up rating for a surge protector and insure it has protection for a cable/antenna input too.
If this doesn't work the TV may be fried or internal fuse blown.
Time to take it to a repair shop or depending on it's age (5 years+) it may be time to buy a new TV and surge protector.
Near Lightening strikes can effect appliances from several inputs that could be affected from outside like Power, Cable, Antennas, Phone Lines that come into your house.


Lightning Strike?

Assuming this line is across the screen horizontally (side to side), this means the vertical deflection circuitry is dead. In late model sets, there is a Integrated circuit package which drives the vertical yoke coils. Possible defects: the I.C. itself, bad solder connections where it solders to the board, missing voltage source to this I.C. (often around +24 volts), or a bad electrolytic capacitor in the associated circuitry. This latter often results in a non-linear picture, or less than full deflection condition, rather than a thin line only. It is possible lightning caused this problem, (I've seen some rather illogical damage from lightning ) perhaps it produced enough of a surge to pop the I.C. or a fusible resistor in that voltage source noted above.
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