Main screen color seems overmodulating. PIP subfeed color fine. White like under black light.
My Mitsubishi VS-50705 had some issues. I created a problem under the VS-40605. But Proton1000 gave me the fix right on by replacing some capacitors around the PIP part of the signal board that connects to the main board. I have the service manual and attempted to adjust using the service menu data the main picture/feed. But I can't get the color to come out correct. The red seems overpowering. The white is like being under a black light. It is overpowering. When the picture starts to fade out in a program to go to another frame the white and colors look better right before the frame changes. Again the PIP picture looks great. Now this set has the split screen. But it won't allow the same feed so the subfeed is black. I switch to the main with 3 little subfeeds scanning channels and they look great. I switch to the main with an adjustable size PIP subfeed and it looks great. I enter service menu adjustment and when I get to the VCJ sub function that brings up the split PIP screen then the subfeed seems fine. Do you think there is still other capacitors in the area I already serviced could still be bad. Or do I need to look into the PIP circuitry to see if the path of the IC is bad? Also any help on focus adjustment would be nice. I don't have a monochrome input so a lot of the service manual adjustments I can't do at this point.
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Rule number one about all vs chassis with vertical can pip boards
take them out and throw them away
i could fix one but you couldnt beleive me
and it wouldnt be worth your while
do a search on your modle number until you come up with instructions on how to add two caps to the pip board connector to bypass it
until you do this you are wasting your time
Mitsubishi ... we're still building Zeros
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There is a quick test you can do to determine if the problem is in your PIP module, using two 4.7uf/50v electrolytic capacitors. The PIP module plugs into two connectors on the main board. Remove the PIP module, and on connector VP on the main board (the 11 pin connector), use one cap to jumper from pin 7 to 9 (negative lead on pin 9); and use the other cap to jumper from pin 5 to 11 (negative lead on pin 11). If the PIP module is bad, you will now have video. The PIP module has surface mount capacitors that go bad. Just make sure you solder a small lentgh of wire to the capacitor leads to prevent them from shorting as they cross over each other. Just plug the wires into the socket no need to solder them.
1. NO VIDEO, BUT HAS VIDEO WITH PIP ON. CHECK C763 (1UF 50V) ON THE BASE OF Q715, LOCATED ON THE UCOM-PCB. 2. NO MAIN VIDEO, THERE IS VIDEO IN PIP ON EXT1 AND EXT2:-CHECK FOR 1VPP OF LUMINANCE ON PIN 1 OF IC7000, IF MISSING OR LOW CHECK THE VALUE OF C7001 (4.7UF 35V), LOCATED ON THE PIP-PCB. THIS CAP MAY LEAK ELECTROLYTE ONTO THE BOARD AND OPENED A FEED THROUGH IN THE PATH BETWEEN C7001 POSITIVE LEAD AND THE EMITTER OF Q7003 OR CAUSE INTERMITTENT COLOR. PART # 181P504090. (CHECK ALL 'SMD' ELECTROLYTICS AND TRACES ON PIP) 3. NO MAIN OR PIP VIDEO, CHECK C7014, 47 UFD 16V ON THE PIP PCB. PART # 181P502060 4. CHECK FOR 7.2V DC ON THE BASE OF Q7003, IF LOW OR MISSING. CHECK THE VALUE OF R7002 (150 OHM 1/10W).LOCATED ON THE PIP-PWB. PART # 103P401050 5. SUSPECT R2045/R2048 (6.8 OHM 3W) FOR OPEN/RAISED VALUE. LOCATED ON PCB-SIGNAL AT 5V REGULATOR IC2003 PIN 5.
If the source to the PIP input is a color signal then the PIP display will be color. PIP sets have two video sources one goes to the main screen while the other goes to the PIP. it all depends on what the format of the signal is being sent to each input. This is quite normal.
we need to know if the lines are of different colors or are they white and the screen is too bright ?, 275.00 seems a lot just to get it check out but it all depends were you are,in NY that could be a going charge but in pittsburgh it seems too much,please let us know what the lines look like.
This is a pretty commom problem with this model. As it has several bad capacitors that go bad. If you have no solid state repair experience, and to save you from any high voltage shocks that can kill you, i would highly advise you to contact a local authorized repair shop to assist you in the repair of this set. As much as you really want to repair this set yourself, To do so would be tempting faith! As a Tv set these days are all solid state and have no user serviceable parts inside of them and to try and experiment with them, could be very harmfull and a risky thing for the user to do. Please find a trained tech to assist myou in the repair of your set. Good luck , and please report back on how the set was repaired.