Neptune washer will not extrACT water

Hi
Older top load washers use a belt to drive to transfer the energy from motor to drum. However, if the belt slips, stretches, or breaks, it can cause friction and a burning smell, most likely a burning "rubber" smell. The belt is located either from the back access panel or from the underside of the washer. The solution is to replace the belt with a new one. To replace the belt you can open the back lid of the washer
To replace the belt carefully pry up on front washer top to release plastic keeper pins, remove 2 Phillips screws from beneath lower front washer panel, slightly lift upward on panel to release. Now remove old broken belt, push new belt beneath large tub pulley and put belt on small motor pulley. After this push back belt tension /idler arm, start belt on large tub pulley, turn tub pulley by hand to run belt on, release tension on idler arm. Replace front panel and lower top.
Hope this helps... Please post back if you need more information.
Daniel

Disconnect the washer from the electrical supply then remove the screws shown holding the rear access panel to the washer’s rear panel and lift the access panel off.



Cushion the bottom of the cabinet opening as shown to avoid hurting yourself with the sharp edge.


Plug the washer in then start a loaded spin cycle to check for belt slippage and the motor operation itself.

Replace the belt if loose or slipping. Remove the belt by turning the tub drive pulley and rolling the belt off the pulley.


Install the new belt in reverse order by wrapping it around the motor pulley and on one side of the tub drive pulley then turn the pulley to the other side in such a way that the belt wraps completely around the pulley. Secure the rear access panel back into position to complete the procedure.

Note: This advice is intended solely for the asker dolanbox as per live chat discussion.

Hi

Older top load washers use a belt to drive to transfer the energy from motor to drum. However, if the belt slips, stretches, or breaks, it can cause friction and a burning smell, most likely a burning “rubber” smell. The belt is located either from the back access panel or from the underside of the washer. The solution is to replace the belt with a new one. To replace the belt you can open the back lid of the washer

To replace the belt carefully pry up on front washer top to release plastic keeper pins, remove 2 Phillips screws from beneath lower front washer panel, slightly lift upward on panel to release. Now remove old broken belt, push new belt beneath large tub pulley and put belt on small motor pulley. After this push back belt tension /idler arm, start belt on large tub pulley, turn tub pulley by hand to run belt on, release tension on idler arm. Replace front panel and lower top.

Please check this diagram for the part number F28(drive belt)--




Please post back for any further assistance.

Thanks
Daniel

The code means locked rotor. Disconnect power to the washer and remove the rear access panel. Remove the rear access panel securing screws and pull the panel off the cabinet.

Turn the drum pulley by hand to determine if there's a restriction that caused the locked rotor error. If there's a restriction, remove the drive belt. Pull the belt from one side of the drum pulley then turn the pulley in such a way that the belt unwraps from it.

Turn the drum pulley and the motor pulley to determine whether the drum or the rotor is being restricted.

The outer tub bearing is damaged if there's restriction in the drum pulley. Specify the model of your washer for the specific replacement part/s and installation guide.

Try to free the rotor if it is stuck by forcibly turning it back and forth. Replace the drive motor if the rotor cannot be unstuck. Specify the model of your washer for the specific replacement part and installation guide.

i think this one is the one with the clutch. if it does it b4 it spins. put it on a spin. if it doesnt spin, u need a clutch. under the unit the belt is whapped on it

The Maytag Neptune washer has 2 bearings seperated by a spacer pressed into the rear of the outer tub. The shaft from the inner basket support goes through a seal ten the 2 bearings where it attaches to the drive pulley. A small leak in the seal will cause the bearings to fail. The regular repair is expensive for both parts and labor as the outer tub has to be replaced. You can check around your area for a service company equipped to replace only the bearings rather than the tub.

that sounds like your tub bearing is out. open the door reach in grab the metal tub and try to push it back -n- to th front. if you hear a thump or a lot of movement its the bearing. i have replaced them before and they ****!! it takes a good repairman two hours to do one and it an expencive endevour

Hi...

You need to check this parts.
Inspect the drain hose for kinks
Test the timer control
Test the lid switch(some models)
Inspect the water pump
Inspect the driver belt(belt drive only)
Inspect the motor coupler

It spins, but doesn't pump If your washer spins but doesn't pump the water out, the drain line is probably clogged. In many washers, a small sock or other piece of clothing can get between the clothes tub and the outer tub that holds the water. If the clothing gets between the tubs, it may then get into the drain hose that's attached to the pump--or even into the pump itself. If it's in the pump, you need to remove the hoses from the pump and pull the item out.

To remove the sock from the outer tub port, open the washer's main access panel and remove the large-diameter rubber hose that connects the pump to the bottom of the outer tub. Then, using needle-nose pliers, try to grab and remove the clothing through the port.

Sometimes you can't remove the stuck clothing from below. Then you have to remove the agitator, top of the outer drum shield, and inner clothes tub. This isn't easy to do--and you may need special tools--so you might be happier getting a qualified appliance repair technician to do the job.

If the drain line isn't plugged, the problem may be with your pump. Even if the pump appears to be turning, the internal impeller may be broken. If so, you need to replace the pump.

It doesn't spin or pump If your washer doesn't spin or pump water out but the motor is running, your washer probably has a frozen pump pulley. If so, you need to replace the pump. To check the pulley, remove the pump from the washer and try to rotate the pulley manually. If it doesn't turn freely--if it's frozen or stiff--replace it.

It pumps, but the water returns If the water that pumps out of the machine goes back into the machine after the spin cycle, your washer may be siphoning the water from a laundry tub that has a slow drain, back into the washer. The usual remedy for this is to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is something stuck in the drain?) Also, check for these problems:

• If the drain hose reaches more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub, cut off the excess.



• If your drain hose is lower than the washer's cabinet, install an air gap/siphon break assembly.

Hope it will help you.

Regards
ICmanServer

RepairClinic.com

The top of the washer lifts up like a car hood after two clips between the top and the front panel are pushed with a putty knife. Once the top is flipped open, the screws that hold the front panel in place at the top can be removed and the panel lifted off. The belt may be bad or something may be stopping the belt like a bad pump. Or the transmission drive pulley and bearing may be going bad. If the bearings above the transmission drive pulley fail the brake will not release correctly in the spin cycle causing weak, slow or no spin. The belt & pulley system can be accessed by tipping the washer back. The belt is routed around all three pulleys under the washer and is fairly loose until the motor starts. It is the torque of the motor that gives the belt tension. Leaking or loud "jet engine" sound in spin indicates a bad main tub seal at the outer tub which has caused the spin bearing to fail. This is a complicated repair as the inner and outer tubs need to be removed from the washer to access and replace the seal and bearing components.

Go here for: Maytag-Washing-Machine-Parts

repacing the belt on a neptune is simple. unplug the unit and move it away from the wall.. now remove the 4 screws holding the access panel in place. loop the belt over the end of the motor shaft so that the grooved side of the belt catches the grooves on the shaft. now simply feed it around the tub pulley. if you find the belt keeps coming off you might have a bearing problem tht has caused the tub to shift. look for fine plastic powder, almost dust like, that would be the pulley eating into the back of the tub