No heat washing cycle completes normaly, exept no hot water or drying.i tested heater for resistance and seems ok,is there a fault with control pcb or is there a faulty sensor that im not aware off? can you make any suggestions? thanks steve

You need to check the circuit in the wash cycle. Disconnect the power to the heater coils and see if the fuse trips. Also the voltage at inlet solenoid must be checked when the program cycle is on the wash , is not the program controller board is fault, possible a wrong output from the processor.
You can isolate the circuits, the heater, the motor drive to see if the trip stays. Also check the inlet and the drain pump on a test bench to confirm the working of the valve which will infer the case.

Alarm
code Description of fault User
code Effect
E11 Problems with water fill in wash phase E10 Cycle PAUSED 8.2
E12 Problems with water fill in drying E10 Cycle PAUSED 8.3
E21 Problems with water drain in wash phase E20 Cycle PAUSED 8.4
E22 Problems with water drain during drying or drying
condenser blocked E20 Heating phase skipped 8.5
E31 Analogic (electronic) pressure switch circuit faulty --- Cycle blocked
with door closed 8.6
E32 Incorrect calibration of analogic (electronic) pressure
switch --- Cycle PAUSED 8.7
E33
Incongruency between level of analogic (electronic)
pressure switch and level of anti-boiling pressure
switch 1
--- Cycle blocked
with door closed 8.8
E34 Incongruency between level of electronic pressure
switch and level of anti-boiling pressure switch 2 --- Cycle blocked
with door closed 8.9
E35 Water level too high --- Cycle blocked with door
closed and water drain 8.10
E36 "Sensing" circuit of anti-boiling pressure switch 1 faulty --- Cycle blocked
with door closed 8.11
E37 "Sensing" circuit of anti-boiling pressure switch 2 faulty --- Cycle blocked
with door closed 8.11
E38 Pressure chamber blocked --- Heating phase skipped 8.12
E41 Door open E40 Cycle PAUSED 8.13-14
E42 Problems with door closure E40 Cycle PAUSED 8.15-16
E43 TRIAC which powers the door interlock faulty E40 Cycle PAUSED 8.17-18
E44 "Sensing" circuit of door delay interlock faulty --- Cycle blocked 8.19
E45 "Sensing" circuit of door delay interlock triac faulty --- Cycle blocked
with door closed 8.19
E51 TRIAC which powers the motor short-circuited --- Cycle blocked with door
closed (after 5 attempts) 8.20
E52 No signal from tachometric generator --- Cycle blocked with door
closed (after 5 attempts) 8.21-22
E53 "Sensing" circuit of motor TRIAC faulty --- Cycle blocked
with door closed 8.23
E54 Relays (motor) contacts faulty --- Cycle blocked with door
closed (after 5 attempts) 8.23
E61 Insufficient heating during washing --- Heating phase skipped 8.24
E62 Overheating during washing --- Drain, end of cycle 8.25
E63 Insufficient heating during drying Heating phase skipped 8.26
E64 Overheating during drying --- Heating phase skipped 8.27
E66 Power relay to heating element faulty --- Drain, end of cycle 8.28
E71 NTC wash sensor faulty --- Heating phase skipped 8.29
E72 NTC sensor on drying condenser faulty --- Heating phase skipped 8.30
E73 NTC sensor on drying duct faulty --- Heating phase skipped 8.31
E84 "Sensing" circuit on circulation pump triac faulty --- Drain, end of cycle
(door open) 8.32
E85 Circulation pump faulty --- Drain, end of cycle
(door open) 8.33
E91 Communications error between main PCB and user
interface --- --- 8.34
E93 Configuration error E90 Cycle blocked 8.34
E94 Incorrect configuration of washing cycle E90 Cycle blocked 8.34
EF1 Drain filter blocked LED-EF0 --- 8.35
EF2 Excessive detergent LED-EF0 --- 8.35
Regards David Marsh

Hello Paul,

There are a few possibilities here but I really need a little bit more detail from you and you're going to need to do some testing to determine the cause of the fault - or faults. You're going to need a Torx T20 screwdriver and a multi-meter which can measure volts and ohms for this.

The endless cycle times are commonly due to a fault in the water heating circuitry, but this could be anywhere from the heater relay on the timer/controller to a defective water heater. The failure of the detergent dispenser to open could also be due to a defective controller, but it could be the detergent dispenser release mechanism or the actuator for the dispenser that is defective.

There are so many possibilities here, I need to eliminate some before making any further suggestions. Please could you answer the following questions to assist me in solving your problem.

1. Your country - to determine power supply voltage and whether the dishwasher is hot or cold fill.
2. The model number of the dishwasher for component locations and disassembly instructions.
3. Is the water getting hot during a wash cycle?
4. Does the detergent dispenser open on any of the shorter wash cycles?
5. Do you have - or can you borrow - the tools Iisted above?

The best place to start would be to test the soap dispenser and a visual inspection of the PCB in the timer/controller for a burned out pin on the heater relay (more common in US models).

Please reply to me with these details and I'll get back to you asap.

Regards,
BElectric

Whirlpool & Kitchen-Aid
Tall Tub Dishwashers
PROBLEM: STOPPED RUNNING, WILL NOT START AND CLEAN LED BLINKS 7 TIMES, THEN REPEATS (WATER HEATING FAULT)
Control is programmed to stop running and not allow any further
cycles if it detects a water heating problem (no temperature
increase detected in heated Main Wash cycle or in 3 consecutive
cycles on the latest software version). Control blinks the Clean
LED 7 times repeatedly and disables the Start/Resume key until
cleared.
Running Diagnostics clears the control and allows it
to operate again. The water heating condition
must be corrected or the control will stop
running again. See potential causes below.
Check If…
Heater circuit problem:
♦ Open heater.
♦ Wire disconnected, open connection or component
in heater circuit.
♦ Faulty heater drive circuit on control.
Then…
1. Check operation of heater in Diagnostics cycle.
2. Unplug dishwasher or disconnect power.
3. Check resistance of heater and all components
and connections in the water heating circuit or heat
dry circuit.
Door switch not making contact consistently:
♦ Misaligned door latch assembly (which can be
aggravated by high door closure force keeping
strike plate from fully seating).
♦ Faulty door switch (high resistance).
♦ Loose or missing installation anchor screws,
causing tank to shift in cut-out.
NOTE: Neutral switch on plastic tub models is only in series with
the heater; other loads are not affected.
1. Unplug dishwasher or disconnect power.
2. Measure resistance of door switch contacts while
checking mechanical operation of latch assembly.
Confirm switches not loose from assembly. Check
strike plate and door closure.
Wash pump not pumping water past the heater efficiently.
• Foreign object in pump
• Excessive foaming
• Clogged pump screen or broken chopper screen
• Loose electrical connection in motor circuit
See Tech Sheet “WASH PUMP WILL NOT PUMP”.
Lack of water to heat. (Unit not filling properly)
• Insufficient water supply pressure
• Fill valve screen blocked or valve not opening fully
• Loose electrical connection on Fill Valve.
• Float switch obstructed or functioning abnormally
See Tech Sheet “WILL NOT FILL OR LOW
WATER”.
Diagnostic Key Dance:
Heat Dry - Normal - Heat Dry - Normal or
High Temp - Air Dry - High Temp - Air Dry

HOPE THIS HELP

Hi


Thanks for using FixYa. That means the control sensed that the heater in the D/W did not operate 3 times in a row. So the unit locks out. First remove the kick plate and you may have to pull the unit out from under the cab, but check your heater. Use a meter to see if it reads open; if so orders a heater assay it will come with a new control replace it too. If heater checks good then press in sequence normal wash, heat dry, normal wash, heat dry, normal wash, heat dry three times within 6 sec and all the lights will come on then hit cancel. What that did is reset the control and clear that fault. Keep in mind that D/W does not heat its own water and incoming water temp should be 120. The D/W will maintain that temp. When starting your D/W first turn on your hot water till it gets hot then start your D/W this ensures your unit fills with hot water and not cold


Please do rate the solution and revert for further assistance.


Thanks

Rylee

SHU 53 MODELS To start test program, press and hold both SCRUB WASH and DELICATE/ECONO program buttons, then turn unit on by pressing ON/OFF button. Initially, control module version # will be displayed (e.g./ ?21? = version 1 with jumper). When wash program buttons are released, lights above them will flash. To end test program, press ON/OFF button. To check each program indicator light, press its button. To check Cycle Countdown display, Refill Rinse Agent light and REGULAR WASH light, press REGULAR WASH button (press Delay Start button to test Cycle Countdown display alone). Cycle Countdown display will show ?88″ when REGULAR WASH button is pressed and ?8h? when Delay Start button is pressed. To start testing, press both the SCRUB WASH and DELICATE/ECONO buttons a second time. When testing has ended, Cycle Countdown display will show a fault using codes below. If more than one fault occurs, code numbers will be added together, (e.g./ ?6? = faults 2 + 4). 0 = No faults detected 2 = Heating fault 8 = NTC (temperature sensor) fault 1 = Aqua Sensor (?Sensotronic?) fault 4 = Filling fault F = Filling fault (display occurs during wash, not test) To check for heater, high limit or flow switch problems, start testing until heating starts. Using a meter with a current coil, measure current going into dishwasher. If current is ~ 11 A, then heater, high limit and flow switch are OK. If current stays at ~ 1.5-2 A, then heater, high limit or flow switch are faulty. If water level switch (f1) has failed (opened), display will show fault code ?4″ and unit will continually fill and drain where testing won?t be completed. If flow switch (e5) has failed (opened), display will show ?0″, water won?t heat (to 150?F) and water won?t stop circulating. If NTC probe (f2/f4) has failed (opened), display will show fault code ?8″ immediately and testing will end shortly after water has started circulating.

BAD CONTROL BOARD TO TEST TO SEE IF THIS IS THE ISSUE RUN TEST PROGRAM
To start test program, press and hold both SCRUB WASH and DELICATE/ECONO program buttons, then turn unit on by
pressing ON/OFF button. Initially, control module version # will be displayed (e.g./ “20” = version 0 without jumper). When
wash program buttons are released, lights above them will flash. To end test program, press ON/OFF button.
To check each program indicator light, press its button. To check Cycle Countdown display, Refill Rinse Agent light and
REGULAR WASH light, press REGULAR WASH button (press Delay Start button to test Cycle Countdown display
alone). Cycle Countdown display will show "88" when REGULAR WASH button is pressed and "8h" when Delay Start
button is pressed.
To start testing, press both SCRUB WASH and DELICATE/ECONO buttons a second time. When testing has ended,
Cycle Countdown display will show a fault using codes below. If more than one fault occurs, code numbers will be added
together, (e.g./ “6” = faults 2 + 4).
0 = No faults detected 2 = Heating fault 8 = NTC (temperature sensor) fault
1 = Aqua Sensor ("Sensotronic") fault 4 = Filling fault F = Filling fault (display occurs during wash, not test)
To check for heater, high limit or flow switch problems, start testing until heating starts. Using a meter with a current coil,
measure current going into dishwasher. If current is ~ 11 A, then heater, high limit and flow switch are OK. If current stays
at ~ 1.5-2 A, then heater, high limit or flow switch are faulty.
If water level switch (f1) has failed (opened), display will show fault code "4" and unit will continually fill and drain where
testing won't be completed. If flow switch (e5) has failed (opened), display will show "0", water won't heat (to 150ºF) and
water won’t stop circulating. If NTC probe (f2/f4) has failed (opened), display will show fault code "8" immediately and
testing will end shortly after water has started circulating

There´s a sensor inside that controls the temperature in order to prevent overheating.
Mostly they work with resistance. Oxydation can influence the resistance value, as like as some fluff.
Second option: you have perhaps not only one heating coil, perhaps one is not working.

Hold down the start key and you will re- set the D/W.
Please Rate This !!! Thank YOU !!!

Found These Fault Codes On Internet, Hope This Helps, Daz

ALARM CODES

E00(E00)- Problems with water fill during washing
-Tap closed; solenoid valve, water distributor, wiring ,main PCB, pressure switches

E01(E00)- Problems with water fill during drying
-Tap closed; solenoid valve, wiring , main PCB, pressure switches

E10(E10)- Problems with water drain during washing
-Drain hose kinked, filter blocked, drain pump, water distributor, wiring , main PCB, pressure switches

E11(E10)- Problems with water drain during drying
-Drain hose kinked, filter blocked, drain pump, pressure switches

E20(E20)- Door open
-Cycle in Door delay, wiring , main PCB

E21(E20)- Fault in door delay power triac
-Wiring , main PCB

E30- Fault in electronic pressure switch
-Electronic pressure switch, wiring , main PCB

E31- Fault in electronic pressure switch circuit
-Main PCB (fault in electronic pressure switch circuit)

E32(E10)-Calibration error in electronic pressure switch
-Electronic pressure switch, drain pump, wiring , main PCB, filter blocked

E33- Incongruency between electronic pressure switches and safety switch 1
-Electronic pressure switch, safety pressure switch,wiring, main PCB

E34- Incongruency between electronic pressureswitches and safety switch 2
-Electronic pressure switch, safety pressure switch,wiring, main PCB

E35- Intervention of anti-overflow pressure switch
-Solenoid valve, water distributor, wiring, main PCB,anti-overflow pressure switch

E36- Water leakage (maximum number of resets exceeded)
-Water leakage, drain hose too low, pressure switch,wiring, main PCB

E40- Motor power triac short-circuited
-Main PCB (triac short-circuited)

E41- No signal from tachimetric generator
-Tachimetric generator on motor, wiring, main PCB

E42- Fault in tachimetric generator circuit
-Main PCB (tachimetric generator sensing circuit)

E43- Intervention of motor overload protection
-Motor, wiring, main PCB

E50- Insufficient heating during wash phase
-NTC sensor setting incorrect, heating element, wiring,main PCB

E51- Overheating during wash phase
-Heating element (to earth), main PCB (relays)

E52- Insufficient heating during drying phase
-NTC sensor setting incorrect, safety thermostat,thermostats, drying heater, wiring, main PCB (relays)

E53- Overheating during drying phase
-Drying heater (to earth), main PCB (relays)

E55- Fault in power relay for heating element (K3)
-Safety pressure switch 2, wiring, main PCB- 6 -

E60- Fault in washing NTC sensor
-Washing NTC sensor, wiring, main PCB

E61- Fault in drying NTC sensor(condenser)
-Drying NTC sensor (condenser), wiring, main PCB

E62- Fault in drying NTC sensor(duct)
-Drying NTC sensor (duct), wiring, main PCB

E63- Fault in 1/2 power thermostat
-Drying NTC sensor (duct), 1/2 power thermostat, wiring,main PCB

E70- Power triac to distributor motor short-circuited
-Main PCB (triac short-circuited)

E71- Fault in power relay to distributor loads
-Main PCB (relay open)

E72- No distributor position signal
-Water distributor motor, wiring, main PCB

E73- Incorrect timing on distributor contacts
-Water distributor, wiring, main PCB

E90- Fault in tank fill pump
-Hoses obstructed, tank fill pump, wiring

E91- Fault in tank drain pump
-Hoses obstructed, tank drain pump, wiring

E92- Fault in power triac to tank fill pump
-Tank fill pump, wiring, main PCB