The manual states that horizontal lines on the viewing screen is due to the mirrors being out of alignment. Can anyone tell me how to align them?
SOURCE: colors out of alignment; curved lines
this sounds like a convergence issue.. one thing you are going to want is a good test dvd.. avia - guide to home theater or video essentials are two very good ones. anything that will supply you with test patterns and let you pause on them will work.
you will need to get into the service menu, using your remote press DISPLAY, 5, VOL+, POWER in quick sequence. once the screen comes up you should have green letters and numbers at the top of the screen. at this point, keys 1 and 4 change the item, keys 2 and 5 change the category, keys 3 and 6 change the value, mute enters write mode, enter executes it.
you will want a test pattern displayed that has a center point, enter the pje section of the menu and go to tphp, if you don't see a crosshair, press 6. you are going to want the convergence grid and the test pattern displayed simultaneously, so press 9 until both are on screen. it will be a crosshatch pattern overlaying your test image. use the joystick button (left or right) to roughly line the crosshatch up with your test image.
now go to tpvp and use the joystick (up and down) to finish lining things up. once you are happy with the changes, hit mute then enter to save it to memory.
this next part is from a tweaks file in the public domain that i have for this model and use any time i am working on one of these.
How to Enter the Convergence Mode
Once you're in the service menu,
you need to access the convergence mode. Press the 2 or 5 key until you see
PJE in white blocky
letters (you should be able to get there quickly by pressing 5 once or twice).
Now press 9 on the remote. You will see a bracket appear in the middle of the
screen. Press 6 and cycle through the different types of patterns until you get
a white grid on a black background.
Controls
Once in the
convergence mode (activated by pressing 9 in the PJE section), the buttons on the
remote work differently. Keys 1 and 4 move the
cursor around on the grid (convergence points) in a spiraling fashion.
The joystick on the remote will adjust the position of the current color at that
grid point. Key 3 cycles between red, green, and blue
adjustments.
You may also depress the joystick,
which will allow you to move the bracket freely around the grid. Press it again
and you are back to being able to adjust the position of the current color at
that grid point. Handy if you are just touching up an area and don't want to
spiral through all the points.
How to Converge the CRTs
It's much easier to converge the
set if you can see what you're converging. Green should be the color to converge
to. The geometry (straightness of the grid) of the green CRT should be good
enough - If you notice that some lines are definitely out of whack, you should
straighten them.
We need to disable the red and blue
CRTs. Press 2 until you get to the 2150P-2 category. Cycle
through the items until you get to RGBS. Change the value to 2 (Green
CRT Only).
Move back to the PJE category by pressing 5. You
should be back at the grid with a green bracket - If you don't see one, press 3
until you do (the bracket may have been set on red or blue, which have been
turned off). Navigate around the grid, correcting any obvious errors. Once
you're satisfied, turn the red CRT back on (RGBS value of 6, Red and Green CRTs
on), and return to the grid. Press 3 until the crosshair is red. Now, align the
red to the green, getting as close as you can. By the way, not all grid points
are selectable. Keep in mind that the edges of the screen will tend to be more
out of focus, and harder to get "tight". Get it as close as you can. You also
may notice that some points affect the position of other, nearby points. You'll
get the feel for it after a short period of time. Now, do the same for blue,
making sure to turn off red (RGBS value of 3, Blue and Green CRTs
on). When you're all done, turn all the CRT's back on (RGBS value of 7, All CRTs on), and
look to see the results. Touch up where it is needed (if needed at all).
I found the 100 IRE Crosshatch image really showed areas that
still needed convergence. I would cycle within the PJE category (pressing 6) between the
convergence grid (to fix errors) and the 100 IRE Crosshatch image (to view areas
with convergence problems).
Save your convergence to memory by pressing MUTE followed by
ENTER.
Remember, you need to do this for each mode you use - This
doesn't mean for each input. It applies to 4:3 mode, 16:9 mode, and 1080i 16:9
mode (even though 1080i is a 16:9 mode, it requires its own convergence due to
the higher scan-rate). Each mode is separate, and is saved separate, however,
each one does tend to affect the other slightly.
Try not to use the Flash Focus. I know it's very easy to
use, and they put it right there on the front of the set, so it basically begs
to get pressed. But realize that pressing Flash Focus will rely on the sensors
to converge your set - It will pretty much re-do all your hard work. It may get
close, but it will never be as good as a service mode convergence.
Now that your convergence is done, you should re-register your
new convergence to Flash Focus (FF). Ryan says below don't use Flash Focus, and
I agree. However, if you do or someone else does, it shouldn't require nearly as
much touching up if the new convergence is re-registered to Flash Focus. This is
simple to do. While in the PJE
category, press the Flash Focus button to initiate a re-registration process to
the system. If the operation fails (I've never had this happen), press 0,
followed by ENTER to restore the convergence settings you last saved. You'll
need to investigate why it did not work. In the PJE category, change to item ERR and it should read a value other than
000 if your attempt at re-registering FF didn't work. If our attempt at
re-registering did work, it should read a value of 000. Typically, reasons why
re-registering FF won't work are due to overscan being
reduced too much but there are other reasons too. Regardless, while you are
investigating just don't press FF and you'll be fine.
I have read numerous forums regarding re-registering flash
focus. Most say only re-register flash focus in Full. This is what I did.
I only watch TV in Full mode anyway, so it worked well. I have read many
people having troubles with other modes if they re-register flash focus in
Wide Zoom mode so I can only say, read forums and ask questions if you do
use your set in other modes before you re-register your flash focus in another
mode besides Full.
hope this helps you,
trin
SOURCE: Philips Projection Screen TV Model PTV915 Horizontal Alignment
Problem solved, needed to get the universal remote i was using set up with the proper code. Once I did that I was able to use the remote to set up the single & multi-zone Red & Blue Alignment. I also pulled the back plate off and manually adjusted the RGB focus knobs. It seems to be working just fine now.
Thanks to all the other posts.
SOURCE: Philips 60 inch rear projection screen is wacky!!
Your TV most likely has one or more possible problems.
Problem #1: Convergence Chip Failure ( common problem )
Here are some of the most common symptoms and example photos of a convergence problem
Here is a quick test....
Using your original remote go-to the tv settings then goto the convergence section.
Try to adjust the red and then the blue convergence.
You should be able to move them up, down, left, and right.
If you can't move them in all directions your convergence chips are bad and should be replaced. This is a common problem.
Solution #1
You need to replace the convergence chips and convergence resistors. Check the site www.TvRepairKits.com. They have put together a kits for most models. If you don't see a kit for your set send them a quick note and they will put one together for you. Their kits include a photo instruction guide, original OEM Sanyo STK chips, convergence resistors, pico fuses, etc.
Problem #2 CRT Fluid is Cloudy
Projection TV tubes have a liquid coolant that is used to keep them from overheating. After many years the coolant in the blue and green tubes will become cloudy and cause the screen to look dull, red/orange, etc. You may even see halos around images.
Picture of a set that needs the fluid changed.
TV set after fluid change
Solution #2
What you will need to do is replace the coolant and clean the crt. You can get a repair kit from www.TvRepairKits.com that includes replacement coolant, photos. instructions, etc.
SOURCE: Toshiba Theaterwide HD 50 inch convergence problem
You will have to spend money to repair it. The Convergence IC's need replacing along with checking all the bias resistors for correct value. Do not attempt to align the Blue manually as you will have a headache once the problem is repaired. A normal repair bill is in the area of $250.00 for a service center to repair.
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