Will mowing the engine died, turn the key nothing happens, new battery this year will not jump off neither , when i touch hot wire to starter engine seems to have a break holding it

You may have a space in your flywhhel with broken off teeth!

Not enough information to answer. Need manufacturer, year, model, engine size, and 2WD/4WD/AWD as applicable in order to answer the question.

if the battery is good.
and charged.
then the solenoid jumped will crank engine,(not start if you keep keys in pocket)
if that hot wire test fails and the battery and its lugs not green.
then the starter is bad.
try using a fresh known good battery first.
or jumper cable (AAA style) jump start it off a running donor car.
if the hot wire fails now, the starter is bad or the enigne is siezed.
can you spin the engine by hand, (using a socket and breaker bar , keys again in pocket::>?)
battery >>>>>>cables>>>>>starter.
this is all it take to crank the engine, just that. if you know how to hot wire a solenoid, do you? the switch below is just a jumper wire or even old screwdriver blade.
http://www.fixkick.com/starter-hotwire.jpg


battery needs to be 12.6vdc rested, is it ? or more.
less is discharged(and normal temps, not -40F)

the oldest GC.
see photo below... jumper at J.
as you can see security has zero to do , here.
if hot wired. zero.

Specific to your situation, since you were mowing when it quit and it no longer cranks, it does not sound like a fuel problem. Neither does it fit with an engine problem like valves, compression, or flywheel key. We can't rule out complications with these areas just yet, but, these are not the areas we want to start with. I will post details for checking the starting system.

If this all checks out, but does not resolve the problem then repost your question with updated details and I will go on to the next phase of diagnostics.

Your specific situation would cause me to check the
Fuse,
PTO switch,
Key Switch
Brake Switch.

Your machine does not have an oil level or oil pressure cutoff.

When I turn the key nothing happens.

There are several elements that go into cranking (turning over) the engine.
Battery
Fuse
Key Switch (and wiring)
Starter Solenoid and wires
Starter motor

To begin with check the fuse. It's a 20amp car style fuse located under the hood near the battery.

If the fuse does not fix the problem let's move on to the battery. The quickest way to make your initial check of the entire starting system and particularly the battery is to get a jump. Yep, get some jumper cables and jump the mower off your car. Turn the key and try to start it in the normal fashion. If it starts cool! It is likely a bad battery.

Charge the battery for a few hours, on a charger. Then perform a voltage measurement of the battery. Switch a volt meter to DC Volts and clip it to the battery. It should read between 12-13 volts. If not the battery is suspect. If it is 12-13 volts see if it will crank, but continue to watch the volts. If they drop below 10ish volts, the battery may have a bad cell.

Now let's check the starting system while bypassing all the safety switches and wiring. How? You can perform this test simply by jumping the starter solenoid. Hold a wrench or fat screwdriver across the two large posts of the starter solenoid. This bypasses the key switch and all safety devices and directly drives the starter. Your starter will crank if the battery and starter are good, the wires and connections are good, and the engine is not locked up. Don't crank it for more that a couple seconds. You just want to verify the battery and the starter are both in good shape. (The engine will crank but not start during this test if the key is off, or if the safety switches or wiring are damaged, or if the safety switches are in the no start/run positions.)

If the starter cranks try one more test. Run a small jumper wire from the positive post of the battery to the little terminal on the solenoid. You may have to take the small wire off the terminal, on the starter solenoid, in order to do this. When you apply this current from the battery to the terminal it should make the solenoid activate and the starter crank. This test bypasses the key switch and shows you the starter system is working. You could do this test first; if it works you do not need to do the basic jump test.

If these tests cause the engine to crank, but it will not crank with the key, then you know you have a problem somewhere in your starter wiring, safety switch system, fuse, or in your Key Switch. Of course you did check the battery terminals for good connection, right?

Most modern riding mowers have the following safety switches:
Seat switch
PTO switch
Reverse switch (RIS)and Reverse Relay(RIO)
Brake/Clutch switch

If you need detailed instruction for testing your wiring and safety system, I will need your complete machine info.
Make
Model
Year
Engine Model
Transmission Model
Deck Size.

On a John Deere (100 series) the starting current flows through the following items in this order:
Battery to Fuse then to the Key Switch.

With key switch in the start position,the current flows from the Key Switch to PTO.

With PTO off, current flows from the PTO to Brake/Clutch

With Brake/Clutch Pedal all the way down, the current flows to the starter solenoid.

If the Starter Solenoid is in good shape, the solenoid connects the battery to the Starter and the engine cranks.

Cranking does not mean running; it just means the engine turns over. Running is dependent on many other systems.

Those components are all part of the cranking/starting system. They can prevent the Starter Motor from cranking when you turn the Key Switch. You can trace the voltage with a multi-meter. Connect the black lead to ground and look for 12 volts on each successive step. If the voltage disappears at one particular step, there is your suspect.

Electrical elements that are NOT part of the starting system:
The RIO is the Reverse Implement Option. It is a switch that latches and stays latched under certain conditions. It is activated by the RIS. The RIS is the Reverse Implement Switch. It activates the RIO. These two separate components work to allow the blades to cut while you are backing up (without killing the engine). They have nothing to do with the starting system.

The Seat and the RIO (the reverse latch not the button) switches are tied into the engine kill system. They provide a ground path for grounding the Coil. This same system controls the fuel shut off valve beneath the carburetor. The Seat and RIO can keep the engine from running but they will not prevent the Starter Motor from cranking. Therefore, if you turn the key and nothing happens, the problem has nothing to do with the Seat and Reverse switches.

Note: With the Key in the RUN position, power flows from the Key Switch to the Hour Meter, then to the RIO latch relay (not the RIS button), then to the fuel shut off solenoid. If you do not hear the Fuel Shut off Solenoid clicking on and off when you turn the Key Switch from off to run, there may be a problem in this circuit; including a possible problem in the Hour Meter. Of course none of this affects the cranking circuit. Your engine will still crank, it just won't run.

no crank
1: battery dead, not charged. does it jump crank?
2: bad battery (corroded clean em) cables lugs. (4 ends)
3: bad starter /solenoid, assembly
4: engine seized, (turn it by hand you cant?)
5: bad key line, (from key switch to PRNDL to stater , no connections)

jump start it, if passed test, battery bad/discharged , and if fail?
you then (battery is good)
hot wire the starter solenoid, keys in pockets
fail? yes, bad starter, seized engine. turn by hand , now you know.
if passes hot wire test, bad key line. (tiny wire)

easy huh?

Need more info so we can look up wiring diagram? Dodge is the make, what is year and model? Sometimes when battery voltage is lost, it can cause problems?
If starter motor won't crank the engine, check starter motor wiring circuits. Any testing at starter motor make sure tranny is in park or neutral and parking brake is set. I haven't checked your security system info.
If you think the problem is the starter motor, usually you can take it off, lay it on the ground, hook up jumper cables properly from starter motor to good battery, at the least, it should kick out starter drive gear and spin.

can you turn the engine by hand? maybe you blew the engine

Did you mean there is NO sound from the starter? The question says there is now sound from the starter. If it is a quick clicking noise, the new battery needs to be charged. Try getting a jump start for it or returning the battery, it should have come charged already. Not a good sign, these things sometimes bought new come with bad cells.

most likley the positive wire has corroded off the starter. look at the small red wire more closely, if theres alot of corosion, replace the wire (and starter if needed) if you dont see much corrosion give the wire a good tug just to see if it really is hooked up well. you should disconnect the batt. before doing any of this.hope this helps and good luck

Is your security light flashing ?if so you have a problem with the anti theft system.Leave the key on for 10 minutes ,then try this should reset the anti theft system