What does it mean when the caution light is all that goes on. I power up the heater and then it turns on the power light but after I put it on large room setting the light switches to the caution light and just buzzes. I tried to take it apart to remove the dust but was unable to due to some odd shaped screws. What kind of srcrews are these they look like a flat screw driver could take them off but they have a little pinch in the middle that won't let you take them off with a flat srcrew driver. What kind of technician can I take it to if I can't fix it? Would it just be cheaper if I buy a new one?
Now you can purchase this type of screwdriver head in most hardware shops, especially as part of a large set of bits (look in the box and you will see them) - otherwise find an old screwdriver about the right size and cut a small groove in the middle with a file or a hacksaw, or a bench grinder if you have access to one. Hey presto. (ps I am not sure of the correct international term for these screwdrivers, but here they are known as split slots. ) sometimes this sort of screw head is sloped so that it can only be done up, not undone, although with a little downward force you can undo fairly easy screws - just check first to see if it is worth sacrificing a screwdriver. Hope this helps :) ps try http://www.dewaltservicenet.com/ServiceNet/new.asp for a free electronic copy of your Black & Decker User Manual. You will need to create a service net login. Please select "I'm a tool user." and follow the instructions. Once logged in, you will need to select "technical publications" from the left hand navigation. When it loads, use the quick document finder and enter your product model number. Hope you fix it - please ask again if you need more help
Posted on Mar 01, 2007
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Caution light comes on when the heater is turned on.
MILKHOUSE HEATER "CAUTION LIGHT" SOLUTION: Unplug the heater. Open it up and clean it out. I mean, buy a can of non-chlorinated brake cleaner and squirt all of the contacts good. Below the fan there is a sensor mounted on the heater element box on the bottom. That goes bad and causes it to trip. While you are there, squirt the motor bushings good with the brake cleaner and dab a drop of synthetic motor oil (just a drop) on EACH of the two motor bushings. Personally, I rewired this and bypassed all of the safety features. You can bypass that sensor without soldering or cutting any wires. All you have to do is unscrew the wires from the holder and then unscrew the tiny nuts and tiny bolts. Then bolt the together at one end (note the position) and put it back in the holder and tighten the screw to hold it in. This method fixes the issue completely as it removes the sensor from the equation. In fact, I just did that on my third milkhouse heater and it has been running solid for the last 15 minutes. Use your modified heater with caution!
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