Hello, I just recently purchased a Nikon FG, but the shutter speed seems to be stuck at 1/90, regardless of what speed or setting I set the camera too.
Before people mention, I've already tried shooting until the first frame, but that does not fix the problem. Nor does loading film into it help.
When looking into the view finder, both the lights from 60 and 125 are flashing, regardless of setting. And when I set the camera t P (Program) mode, and shoot in light and dark conditions, I can see that the aperture is changing size depending on the light. So I am 100% certain the meter is working, at least in some capacity.
Also, when I remove the battery, and shoot at any speed other than M90 or B, the mirror locks up. When I replace the battery, and switch to M90 to release the mirror, then shoot at a manual speed, it still shoots at 1/90.
I've read somewhere that if the camera detects a flash attached to the hotshoe, it will automatically set the cameras shutter speed to 1/90 (the cameras flash sync speed), but only when set to 1/125 or faster. It shoots at 1/90 regardless.
It will trigger a flash when one is attached, and the hotshoe has been cleaned, so the hotshoe may not be the issue.
I have already removed the top plate to see if there are any issues. I did notice one line of a circuit near the shutter button rusted, you can see the circuit in this image (http://www.flickr.com/photos/googlit/283941616/in/set-72157594352512714). It's the one closest to the frame counter, connected to the yellow wire. I cleaned it, but it seemed to rust through. I don't have any conductive paint, so I tried taping a piece of aluminum foil to it, in the hopes of closing the circuit.
My hope is that the foil just isn't working, and that I need to solder or use conductive paint.
If indeed the hotshoe is the issue, I'm willing to sever the wires connecting them to the camera, in the hopes that it will let the camera know that there is no flash attached, and let it use other shutter speeds.
Any advice would be much appreciated, thanks in advance.
P.S. I'm willing to open up the camera and tinker around if there are any drastic fixes that may work.
It seems that fixya doesn't like how I paragraphed my question, and instead made it one big wall of text, thanks.It seems that fixya doesn't like how I paragraphed my question, and instead made it one big wall of text, thanks.
Upon doing further research, it may actually be the electrons for the frame counter that is forcing the camera to shoot at 1/90.Upon doing further research, it may actually be the electrons for the frame counter that is forcing the camera to shoot at 1/90.
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M90 is a battery independent setting - it requires no battery power to function. If it won't advance until put on M90 from other settings, then either you're not allowing for proper exposure, have the settings incorrectly set (film speed, etc), or you have shutter issues. The shutter is electronically controlled on all settings except M90. In the auto setting, your lense MUST be set to the smallest aperture (biggest number). On any other setting, you can use it however you'd like. I'd suggest unloading any film, setting the shutter speed dial to 1/125 or so, opening the back and looking thru and firing the shutter. If it's not snapping open and immediately closed, theres an issue and you need to consult a repair technician either locally, through Nikon, or through KEH Camera online.
needs repairing at a qualified shop
when was it last cleaned or serviced ?
if you think the camera is worthy, since its old how much is it worth to you vs a new one
Check to see if somehow the "noise reduction" setting is on. This in effect takes two separate exposures on each shutter release, so it (sometimes) doubles the time the mirror is up. I'm not sure where it is in the menus on a D300.
Also, just a terminology point, but the "shutter" in this camera is a combination of the mirror (what we usually call the shutter) and the electronics which samples the sensor for a limited time. It's a little like the mechanical shutter on a film camera that was behind the mirror....back in the day when they made them from titanium.
The "so what" of this is that even if it sounds like it's not releasing as fast as it used to, the exposure can still be accurate if the electronics are sampling correctly. It's only when moving to slow exposures that the mirror speed/up time makes a difference.
Check the batteries first. The electromagnetic shutter requires power to function. To free up the shutter and advance lever, rotate the command switch to "M90" (if I recall). That should re-set the shutter and allow you to advance the lever mechanically.
If its black when you look thru the viewfinder its likely because the mirror is stuck in the up position. It will often do that if the batteries are exhausted. Try replacing the batteries.
The mirror might release back down if you turn the shutter speed dial to M90. This is a manual release of 1/90 second for when you need the shot but don't have any power.
When you look in the lens opening and adjust the aperture dial, you are seeing the aperture open and close. Not the shutter. You need to open the back of the camera (without film) and take a photo to see the shutter curtains open and close.
You should have a read thru the manual to become familiar with the camera and its operation:
It likely did not catch when it was first loaded, and as such never advanced through the camera. Open the back of the camera, with no film in it, then set the shutter speed to 1, advance the film advance lever and take a shot. You should see the shutter curtains open and then close a second later. Then advance the film lever again and watch to see that the sprockets are turning. If they are, then the camera is exposing and the mechanics are working properly to advance the film. Chances are it was just loaded incorrectly.
By "stayed up", do you mean that the mirror remained in the up position so that you could not see anything in the viewfinder or do you mean that the shutter actually remained open? I do not remember the exact features on your camera, but in general, this is what I would do.
1) Remove the film from the camera and take a picture. Note if you see anything in the viewfinder. If you see nothing, the mirror is in the up position. Verify this by removing the lens and opening the door on the camera back. Look through the lens hole. If you can see through the rectangular hole at the film plane, the shutter is open. If instead you something is obstructing the hole, the shutter is closed. In any case DO NOT TOUCH THE SHUTTER! The shutter is what is covering the hole.
2) If the mirror is in the up position, check to see if your camera has a feature that allows locking the mirror in the up position. Some cameras have this feature to allow use of lenses with very short focal lengths. If this is the case, simply unlock the mirror.
3) If the shutter is the problem, your shutter speed may be set to "T", which stands for time. In the time exposure mode, you press the shutter release once to open the shutter and a second time to close the shutter. Cameras with a "T" setting also have a "B" setting, which stands for bulb. This is a throwback to the old days when it was common to use air-powered shutter releases rather then cable releases. The bulb was a rubber bulb that you squeezed to force air through a tube and push a pin to activate the shutter. The "B" setting keeps the shutter open as long as you hold the shutter release in, but as soon as you take your finger off the shutter release, the shutter closes. Both of these settings are used to make timed exposures. If you find that the problem was that the shutter was set to "T", set the shutter speed to 1/25th second or so and try again. The following sequence should occur; the mirror will flip up and the viewfinder image will disappear, the shutter will open for the prescribed time and close, the mirror will return to the down position and you will again see through the viewfinder.
If this does not work, you may need to take it in for repair.
I don't know, but it's worth a try. I took mine to the camera store, because my shutter wouldn't even work anymore, even with fresh batteries in it. He again tried new batteries, and turned the shutter speed knob from Automatic all the way over to "B" for Bulb, and back to the Auto. Guess What! I haven't used the camera in 3-5 years because I thought it was broke and going to need factory repair. Well, this tricked worked for me. I was so thrilled, because my daughter wanted some double exposures and special filters shots for her wedding. Also the weight of the camera I couldn't handle anymore with a health problem, so I went to digital, but would love a Nikon good digital.
Good Luck!
It seems that fixya doesn't like how I paragraphed my question, and instead made it one big wall of text, thanks.
Upon doing further research, it may actually be the electrons for the frame counter that is forcing the camera to shoot at 1/90.
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