My washer is (sometimes) not moving properly from the wash to the drain/rinse cycle. It makes a laboring sound and sometimes doesn't spin. If I open it and move the tub from side to side a few times, then close it, sometimes it will then proceed on it's own. My (very handy) husband looked underneath it and found the screws around the belt. He said one was loose and tried to tighten it, but it wouldn't tighten. He thinks if he could open the machine up, he could access the screw from above, but the screws to open the front of the machine seem to be inaccesssible. Any ideas/help would be great.
I have the maytag MAV6057AWW. I had the same problem and today i am discovering that others are having the same problem i was. It first started with the no agitation after the rinse cycle. I emptied out the water and clothes etc. I lifted it, took it apart practically and discovered all was ok. I couldnt figure it out because after putting it back together it worked properly. After a few days it didnt agitate for the wash cycle after filling up with water. I was confused. But then I got pissed of and I slammed the lid shut and it began to work.
It was the switch. I havent replaced the switch, but i have learned to cope with the fact that i have to open and close the lid a 2 or 3 times times before it goes into the cycle.
When it doesn't agitate, its not a mechanical problem, but a safety switch that is failing to close. So either replace your switch or play with the lid a bit.
I have a Maytag model #MAV6057AWW and I believe the lid switch has failed. I have removed the lid switch but I have no way of knowing if the switch is indeed bad and do not own any type of continuity tester but was wanting to use jumper wires on the plug from the wiring harness to the switch to bypass the switch. There are four labeled contact: Neutral; Line; Motor; Machine, on the switch contact (male side of plug). What would I jump on the corresponding side of the female side of (wiring harness) to safely bypass this switch.
The reason I believe it is the lid switch is because the machine failed to operate immediately after the lid being dropped closed.
Open the top of the unit (including lid) by pushing a butter knife into the slots near the top right and left corners. Once the spring clips release, just lift the front of the top panel. There should be two screws attaching the front panel to the sides near the top. Remove these and lift up the front panel. However, the problem is probably a rusted spin bearing and the repair on that is costly and difficult. Buy another one, different brand maybe.
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