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this could be numerous things but, this sounds like the same problem i had with an ignition on a vehicle recently, it might be that the contacts inside the ignition might not be either lining up correctly or they may have broken inside the barrel as what maybe happening is as you turn the key, the contacts inside the barrel line up and connect 2 contacts at the same time, if either of these are broken or corroded it will not make a complete circuit, just so i have this right, you get power going to the ignition? or not...you can email me on [email protected]
This machine makes use of two levers on the handle. The right controls the drive and the left controls the auger. When both are released, the drive wheels and the auger should stop. The impeller (the part inside that pushes snow up and out of the chute) will run as long as the motor is running and not controlled by the levers.
You said the auger continues to spin even when the lever is released. Both levers are connected by a flexible, thin, steel cable that extends down to a "wheel" or pulley assembly that is held in place by two hex nut bolts to the rear (operator position) corners of the machine. The steel cable should be ON the wheel - not hanging in free air and not wedged between the pulley and pulley support. Loosening the bolts and adjusting the pulley UPWARD should reduce tension / provide SLACK required to disengage the auger when the lever is released (adjust for a *small* amount of slack only). Positioning the pulley DOWNWARD increases tension that reduces the amount travel the lever needs to ENGAGE the auger. The pulley assembly position needs to be adjusted so that when the lever is released, the auger shuts off, and when squeezed, the auger turns on. These same adjustment procedures can be used for the DRIVE lever control, too.
If you are unable to adjust the cable so that there is a little slack, then there is a problem with the cable at the other end - inside the machine. It will require someone who is mechanically inclined - or snow blower serviceman to adjust / repair this for you if you lack the tools and understanding to do the work yourself. It is not likely to be an expensive repair, however. You should ask for an estimate or be given the opportunity to authorize repairs before they are started.
It sounds like your auger motor has an issue in my opinion. How i check them is: remove ice bin, open freezer door, hold door switch down, depress the freezer ice dispenser button on the door and see if the auger motor has the torque when it turns, if the motor has power and turns but cant turn w/ torque or has power and dosen't turn. you need a new auger motor. lmk if u need more help!
I assume the cable to the auger was removed and needs to be re-installed.
There should be a clamp that the cable ran thru, then attaches to the auger
control. Find this clamp on your snowblower, and route it thru this clamp
then attach it to your auger control.
You need to replace the motor and the " U " piece that screws onto the motor . You may have to saw the motor shaft , to remove the motor , if the U piece will not screw off . Remove the panel which holds the motor ( 4 screws ) and disconnect the plug , and the whole panel should come out .
Auger motor pt. # WR60X10258
Auger drive pt. # WR02X11941
The auger is controlled by a T-stat on the side of the combustion chamber. Open the side of the stove and you can see the auger motor and the thermostat that feeds it. It has a manual reset button on the back of the thermostat, press it.
if you still have this problem you may want to check the engine brake area for a wire. this wire leads to your coil. at the point where the wire hooks up there is a piece of metal that is bent or dimpled. check this tab for clearance. if it makes contact with the bracket bolted to the engine it will kill the spark and shuts down the mower. sometimes from the factory they lube it so well with grease it will also build up between the contacts and cause a short.
rmielsen and PhyllisForbe, Your refrigerator has an auger motor that causes the ice to be dispensed when you press the ice selector on the front of the refrigerator. You could have several possible problems that will gives you the same result. The auger motor could be at fault. The ICE selector part of the control panel of the front of the refrig could be at fault. To isolate to auger or control... do the following. Remove the ice bucket or auger assembly from the freezer. Reach into the freezer compartment where the auger assembly normally would be. You should be able to see a "horse shoe shaped metal drive assembly" that would mesh with the auger assembly (ice bucket) to turn the cork screw shaped auger. Try and turn the auger drive assembly in rear of freezer to determine if motor armature is free. The is somewhat difficult to do because the auger motor is high torque, slow rpm motor, but it should turn if it is good. Sometimes the auger motor will become stuck due to a water leak, inactivity, high humidity during a defrost cycle, etc. The more possible suspect is the ICE selector assembly on the front of the refrigerator. If any function on the refrig fountain dispenser control panel goes bad...then the ice/water control assembly will need to be replaced. Hopes this helps you! HandyHenry
The buzzing is possibly your exhaust/combustion blower. This blower is the fan sound you hear as the stove starts up. If you ARE hearing a NORMAL fan sound, then the buzzing could be the auger motor. Do you have a Foxfire with an igniter? This tells me the series of model you have and what control system it uses.