Question about GE JKP15 Electric Single Oven

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Won't unlock for a week...then F3

The oven's been locked for over a week tonight it just started beeping it said F2 till i messed around w/the buttons then it went to F3 and wounldn't stop beeping till i set the timer. i have about 9 hours and 45 min till i think it'll start again. help!!

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Or oven says PF we dont know what that means and our oven doesnt work changed all fuses need help

Posted on Dec 10, 2010

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INGLIS Royal 100 STOVE F1 F2 F3 ERRORS
Mode lUP 48500 ( thats eye you, not ONE U )

I got the dreaded F3 error on the Display Panel,
every time I pressed BAKE or BROIL, BUT, I could
hear the three relays click in, and then kick out in
sequence, just before the F3 appeared.

I called Westinghouse ( that services INGLIS ) and
was told that F3 " means unpug for 1/2 hour and then
press CLEAR 5 Seconds to reset ". Which is nonsense.

All functions on the clock and timer work fine, and the
three relays were working, so its not a computer problem.
I called service REPAIR companies who said it was the
THERMOSTAT, and replace it - $147.99 ... The Glass tube
of the display is $200 with no circuit board, the relay board
is $300 and the computer/display is $400.

I did tests on the thermostat, first heating it with a propane
lighter, and it raised from 475 Ohms at room temperature,
to 600 ohms, so I knew it was functioning.

Then, I plugged in a variable resistor where the thermostat
plugs in. I went from Zero Ohms resistance to 5000 Ohms in
200 Ohms steps.

Zero Ohms ( equal to burnt out or unplugged) gives you
an immediate F1, which you cannot clear.
From 100 Ohms to 400 Ohms, you get Error F2, which
means thermostat too low.
From 400 Ohms to 665 Ohms there is no error.
At 665 Ohms, the BAKE will beep twice, stating that you
are setting the temperature at or lower than the actual temperature
of the oven ( you cant set the oven at 200, for example, if it is
already at 450 Degrees )
Using this 2 Beep code, I raised and lowered the resistance
and made a graph of the reading on the display versus the
OHMS that the thermostat would send to the controller:
665 Ohms = 170 Degrees Farenheit, which is the
lowest reading in the BAKE MODE.
800 Ohms = 240 Degrees
1100 Ohms = 380 Degrees
1400 Ohms = 500 Degrees, which iis the maximum that
the unit showed in the BAKE MODE.
1430 Ohms to 2750 Ohms, there was no reading, an NO ERRORS.
ABOVE 2750 OHMS, the F1 ERROR appeared again, meaning
thermostat out of range.

Note that the computer module supplies 5 volts DC to the thermostat,
to see the changes in current with changing resistance.
You can easily check the thermostat to see if it is OK, with an
Ohmeter across the thermostat, which should read about 475 Ohms
at room temperature. If it reads Zero, it is burnt out. If it reads
over 2750, it is defective. Check to see if the thermistor in the
tube is SHORTED to the steel outter case as well, as this should be
infinite ohms ( no contact )- if it reads ZERO it is shorted to case.

I found that on the Internet, there are hundreds of people looking for
the F3 code for the ROYAL 100 ( model number IUP 48500 )
and a general search shows that for 400 " other" models of all kinds,
F3 = REPLACE THERMOSTAT ! Not on this model, and all typical searches
for technical support or diagrams or troubleshooting did not even list
the Royal 100 AT ALL, as if it never existed.

I then did tests on the relay board, and replaced the capacitors, a few diodes,
some resistors that were a bit out of value, and two transistors that were
a bit out of value. There was no change in F3.

I cleaned the contacts on the three relays using a typical board fingernail
file that ladies use for their finger nails ( I keep a supply for cleaning
relay contacts, since there is sandpaper on both sides, and they are
tiny enough to fit between most contacts ). THEN, I realized that the BROIL
contacts were bouncing apart - they were too far apart, and not closing
properly, so I bent the stationary contact a bit closer, and plugged in the
stove = NO ERRORS..

I analysed the circuit, and after turning on the 3 relays ( NOTE, when you
turn on BAKE, as in a regular oven, THE BROIL ELEMENT goes on at first
to quickly help the BAKE element get the oven up to temperature )
there is a feedback circuit that feeds 250 Volts back into the 5 Volt computer
chip ( ! ! ! ) It uses two 22 Meg Ohm resistors in series for a total of 44 Million
Ohms, which shows about 46 volts accross the resistors. Since the gas
tube display uses 30 volts to light up, the 46 volts is within the computer
board's ability to lower it enough to feed into the computer. There are transisors
on the back of the control board and Zener diodes etc. to " compare " the
voltage, where 46 volts in = 250, and Zero volts, means that the element
is burnt out, the element fuse in the fuse panel is burnt out, or, the relay
contacts are dirty. The relays are absolutely standard 24 volt relays,
with a plasic cover that snaps off if you pull and wiggle it. You will see
the round silver contact pads are blackened and probaly pitted.
Sand these flat until silver/brass shiny, and test to make certain that
when you press the metal lever that the magnetic coil pulls DOWN,
that the contacts touch! If they do not touch tight, bend the
stationary contact in a tiny bit and test again.

You can first check the fuses - there are two 120 volt fuses in the
fuse panel that give you 250. Then, you can unplug the stove,
and use an OHM meter to see if the element is burnt. The two types
of elements I checked were 3000 Watt at 18.7 Ohms, and 2500 Watt,
at 48 Ohms. If the elements are burnt out, you will get ZERO ohms.
If the element is burnt internally through the insulation in the tube,
and shorting to ground, between the ends and the steel back of the
stove ( ground) you will get a reading of X amount of ohms ( which
normally should be ZERO ) If the element is burnt or shorted to
ground, replace.

The F3 error is a really dumb mechanical errror of whether the 250 volts
is on the elements. It does not involve the computer or the thermostat,
or the relay " electronics" at all - it is just simply 3 contacts that supply
250 Volts, and whether or not the contacts work, the elements work,
or the fuses work. This the same 250 Volts that is on an ordinary
dial stove, and the dumbest part of the whole unit.

When I called service, they said they would order the $147.95 temperature
thermostat, and " see if this fixes the problem", if not they would start
replacing the modules - $300 and $400, plus labour, plus tax etc., and
since the problem was on the module, this would cost $147.95 + $300,
plus $75.00 for the first 15 minutes, and $15 for each additional 15 minutes,
for a total of about $466 dollars ( CDN ) which is about $460 dollars US.

A package of 25 fingernail files is $1.00 at the dollar store. That is all that
it cost to fix the problem. You need a square ( Robertson ) head screwdriver
to remove the 7 screws on the back panel, and then you wiggle the
covers off the relays, and clean them. It takes 10 minutes.

good luck ! Damned the manufacturers for not putting this information
in the user manual.

Robin Graves, January 2008, kidbots.com

Posted on Feb 01, 2008

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The F2, F3 error is an indication the Temp Sensor(6 inch device inside the oven top) i not working/connected.
Remove oven from wall an measure approx. 1000 ohms across this sensor at the location where it plugs to the Clock Control Board.

Posted on Dec 09, 2007

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Try to cut power to the unit for a while. Also, check for loose electrical connections nearby and on the stove (unplugged or breakers open!!). Restore power. Fixed..done. Not fixed, change circuit board.

Posted on Dec 07, 2007

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1 Answer

F3 f4 gaas oven when preheated these numbers appear it beeps and shuts off


Hi, replace the oven temperature sensor if "F2," "F3" or "F4" is displayed. "F2" indicates the oven temperature is too hot and the oven temperature sensor is suspect. "F3" or "F4" indicates the oven temperature sensor or shorted or open.

Jan 22, 2011 | Magic Chef Ovens

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Whirlpool oven, stove and range fault codes (ERC and EOC display errors).


Here a list of Whirpool oven fault codes. The codes had been collected from different service manuals. This was a memo that I wrote for my own use. I think this can be useful to owners and technicians.

WHIRLPOOL - most models
Range/Stove and Oven Fault Codes, Common error codes.

F1 - Analog control board Failure
Disconnect for one minute - if error comes back, replace control board
F1 - Shorted control keypad
Replace keypad
F3 - Oven temperature sensor open
Replace oven temperature probe
F2 - Oven temperature sensor shorted
Replace oven temperature probe
F3 - Oven too hot
Replace oven temperature probe
F3 - Clean temperature too hot
Replace oven probe
F5 - Door latch switch fault
Test and replace the door switch.


Whirlpool with 4 Digit Failure Code:

F1 - E1 - Electronic control (flip flop)
Replace control board
F2 - E0 - Shorted control keypad
Replace keypad
F3 - E0 - Oven temperature probe open
Replace temperature probe
F3 - E1 - Oven temperature probe shorted
Replace temperature probe
F3 - E2 - Oven temp too high
Replace temperature probe
F3 - E3 - Clean temp too hot
Replace temp. probe
F5 - E0 - Check door latch
F5 - E1 - Check door latch
Replace switch if defective

WHIRLPOOL Polara models 5 digit codes:

F1 F0 - EEPROM communication error
Replace ERC
F1 E1 - EEPROM checksum error
Replace ERC
F1 E2:7 - UL A/D errors
Replace ERC
F1 E4:2 - Model ID error
Reinsert keytail.
F1 E6:0 - Latch signal mismatch error
Replace ERC
F2 E0:4 - Shorted key error
Replace keypad assembly
F2 E1:3 Keytail unplugged
reinsert the keytail
F3 E0:5 Top oven sensor open
Test and replace top probe.
F3 E1:6 Top oven shorted
Test and replace temp probe
F3 E2:9 Bake range over temperature
Test and replace temp probe
F3 E3:8 Clean range over temperature
Test and replace temp probe.
F3 E4:10 Bottom oven sensor open
Test and replace temp probe
F3 E:15 Bottom oven sensor shorted
Test and replace temp probe
F5 E0:14 Door switch errot
Test and eventually replace door lock switch
F5 E1:16 Door latch not operating
Test and eventually replace door latch
F8 E0:17 Refrigeration error
Test the cooling module.
PF Power failure - Does not indicate a fault.
PF occurs when power is disconnected.

WHIRLPOOL
Models SF3, 30'' and 24"

F2 - Oven temperature above specifications
Check 8-pin connector from temp. probe to Electronic Oven Control
F3 - Open oven temperature probe failure
Check wiring, replace oven probe if necessary
F4 - Shorted oven temperature sensor failure
Check wiring harness, replace oven temperature probe if necessary
F5 - Push button stuck or faulty
Check for binding of pushbuttons and control panel glass. If OK, replace touch panel
F6 - Electronic control logic error (timing)
Replace Electronic Range Control (ERC)
F7 - Electronic control logic error (lock motor)
Replace ERC.
F8 - Electronic control logic error
Replace ERC.

on Jan 31, 2010 | Whirlpool RBS305PDS Electric Single Oven

1 Answer

Amana Self-cleaning Oven flashes F2 and F3 and beeps. It doesn't get real hot. Although it does heat up not the appropriate temperature.


Hi, F2 error code on the Amana Oven means "Oven too hot" You have to replace Oven temperature sensor to fix it.
F3 error code means "Open or shorted oven temperature sensor". Yo also have to replace Oven temperature sensor to fix it.

Summarily, both code has to do with the temperature sensor which you need to replace...

Oct 23, 2010 | Amana Ovens

2 Answers

Kitchen aid wall oven Model YKEBS2780B1 SHOWS


Hello,4 Digit Failure Code F0 - E0 Analog to Digital Failure Disconnect for 30 seconds - if display re-appears - replace control F1 - E1 Safety flip flop Replace Electronic Range Control/Clock(ERC) F2 - E0 Shorted keypad Replace Electronic Range Control/Clock(ERC) F3 - E0 Oven temperature sensor or oven temperature sensor fuse opened Replace oven temperature sensor or fuse F3 - E1 Oven temperature sensor shorted Replace oven temperature sensor F3 - E2 Oven too hot Replace oven temperature sensor F3 - E3 Clean temp too hot Replace oven temperature sensor F5 - E0 F5 - E1 and E2 Check door/latch switch Replace component 2 Digit Failure Code F0 or F1 or F5 Failed transistor Replace Electronic Range Control/Clock(ERC) F2 - E0 Oven temp too high 1. Test operation of door lock on self-clean models
2. Test relay contact operation
3. High resistance in oven temperature sensor F3

Thanks

May 26, 2010 | Ovens

1 Answer

The oven isn't working and it says FO in red letters


GE / Hotpoint / RCA
Oven Fault Codes
Display Condition Remedy
F0 & F1 Failed Thermistor Control Replace ERC
F2 Oven Temp Exceeds 590 with unlocked door High resistance in Sensor, likely a bad sensor
F3 Open Sensor circuit Open (blown) sensor fuse or bad Sensor
F4 Shorted wire or Sensor locate short and correct it
F7-A Function pad button stuck Clean and unstick
F7-B Bad Clock Replace Clock
F8 Electrical component failure Replace ERC
F9 Program with door circuit Check wiring

Frigidaire / Westinghouse / Tappan / Gibson
Oven Fault Codes
Display Condition Remedy
F0 & F1 EOC failure Replace EOC
F2 Oven over heat Defective Sensor or EOC
F3 Oven Sensor Open Replace Sensor
F4 Shorted wire or Sensor locate short and correct it
F5 EOC failure Replace EOC
F6 EOC failure Replace EOC
F7 EOC failure Replace EOC


Maytag / MAYCOR / Magic Chef / Jennair / Admiral
Oven Fault Codes
Display Condition Remedy
F0 Function key shorted or stuck button Clean and unstick button or replace Touch Pad or Clock
F1 Defective Touch Pad or Membrane Replace Touch Pad or Membrane
F2 Oven over heat defective Relay Board or (if present) or defective Sensor
F3 Oven Sensor Open Replace Sensor
F4 Shorted wire or Sensor locate short and correct it or replace Sensor
F5 Hardware, safety circuits disagree Replace Clock
F6 Missing AC (power) signal Check for proper voltage (plug, breaker, etc.)
F7 Function key shorted or stuck button Clean and unstick button or replace Touch Pad or Clock
F8 A/D Warning Replace Clock
F9 Door Lock Warning Check door lock circuit or Replace Clock


Amana / Caloric
Oven Fault Codes
Type with display - glass link ERC
Display Condition Remedy
F0 No Safety Signal Replace adapter board
F1 No Safety Signal Replace ERC
F2 Oven over heat Replace defective Sensor
F3 Oven Sensor Open Replace Sensor
F4 Shorted wire or Sensor locate short and correct it or replace Sensor
F7 Shorted Touch Panel Replace Glass Panel
F9 Door Latch Error Check latch
FF Lock Error Check switch and motor
ERC III - Relay board with separate board/push buttons
F0 Shorted Push Pad Replace Push Pad
F1 Defective ERC Replace ERC
F2 Oven over heat Replace defective Sensor
F3 Oven Sensor Open Check/Replace Sensor
F4 Shorted wire or Sensor locate short and correct it or replace Sensor
F5 Defective ERC Replace ERC
F6 Defective ERC Replace ERC
F7 Shorted or sticking button Clean button or replace touch pad
F8 Defective ERC Replace ERC
F9 Door Latch Error Check latch


The following diagnostic chart Does not apply to Whirlpool 'Y' line products. If the model number contains a Y near the end of the number, DO NOT use this chart.
Whirlpool / KitchenAid / Roper
Oven Fault Codes
Ovens with 4 digit displays
Display Condition Remedy
F0-E0 Analog to Digital failure Disconnect panel for 30 seconds. if error re-appears then replace control
F1-E1 Defective ERC Replace ERC
F2-E0 Shorted Keypad Replace Keypad
F3-E0 Sensor or Sensor Fuse Open Replace Sensor or Fuse
F3-E1 Shorted wire or Sensor locate short and correct it or replace Sensor
F3-E2 Oven over heat Replace Sensor
F3-E3 Cleaning Temp over heat Replace Sensor
F5-E0 Door Error Check Door
F5-E1 Door Latch Check Latch
F5-E2 Door Switch Check Switch
Ovens with 2 Digit Displays
F0 Defective ERC Replace ERC
F1 Defective ERC Replace ERC
F2 Oven over heat Replace defective Sensor
F3 Oven Sensor Open Check/Replace Sensor
F4 Shorted wire or Sensor locate short and correct it or replace Sensor
F5 Defective ERC Replace ERC
F6 Problem with time keeping circuit Reset Time or cooking operation and check for proper ground
F7 Shorted or sticking button Clean button or replace ERC
F8 Defective ERC Replace ERC
F9 Door Latch Error Check latch and latch circuit


If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

Dec 18, 2009 | Ovens

1 Answer

Beeping with 'f2' & 'f3' message when cleaning but did not finish cleaning. Oven now cooled but still locked.


All F3-E Codes - Oven Temperature Sensor (RTD) or Warming Drawer Defect - Replace oven temperature sensor (RTD).


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May 25, 2009 | Kenmore 40494 / 40495 / 40499 Electric...

3 Answers

F2 f3 starts beeping when using stove or oven


F2
Oven temperature too hot
Check and replace oven temperature sensor (RTD).
F3
Open oven temperature sensor (RTD)
Check sensor harness and harness connection between oven sensor and oven control. Replace oven temperature sensor (RTD) if wiring is ok.
So i suppose its a sensor replacement is necessary.These are the fault code explanations by frigidaire.good luck with the machine.Please do post results and comments.

Apr 15, 2009 | Frigidaire 30" Self-Cleaning Freestanding...

1 Answer

F2 and F3 error messages on Tappan wall oven model 12-4980 10/03


These are the F2/F3 error codes for a Tappan oven
F2 Oven too hot Check Bake function, if OK, replace oven temperature sensor F3 Oven temperature sensor open Check oven temperature sensor, should be ~1100 ohms at room temperature. If too high or low, replace oven temperature sensor
please take the time to give this solution a fix ya rating.

clarkco

Feb 09, 2009 | Tappan Ovens

1 Answer

F2 and F3 code appearing along with annoying beeping


i think f3 error code has something to do with the temp probe maybe it is the problem. the temp probe is located if you open the door directly in the back wall. it looks like a prong. should read 1100ohms the f2 error code though usually has something to do with the keypad i would check all the connections maybe they are loose.

Jan 04, 2009 | Kenmore 40494 / 40495 / 40499 Electric...

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