I have a WS 55805, The screen is blue with a black square about 3"x5" in center. You can barely see the tv channel in background. Its hazy and white. Is there a troubleshooting manual for the 55805, I cant seem to locate one???
A full service manual is available online---I will presume you tried to unplug it for a while and then power back to see if will reset itself.
This set has three hidden menus---one is the OPTION menu--in that menu with the Mitsubishi remote you can do a hard reset of the entire set= sets all back to factory except convergence adjustments which are stored in another area--cures all kinds of oddball issues.
I can give you a link to the manual and the page numbers for the OPTION menu.
Note: the other two hidden menus are Convergence and adjustment--do not go into adjustment menu as one wrong move and poof!
SD TECH
SOURCE: Mitsubishi WS-55819 power issue
This model is equipped with a self-diagnosis feature to help with diagnosis of shutdown problems. To activate this turn the unit on let it shutdown then press the input and menu buttons on the front panel simultaneously and hold them in for 5 seconds after 5 seconds the power LED on the front panel will blink a two digit sequence. This will be one set of blinks a short pause then another set of blinks, this will repeat 5 times. 1 - 2 = no error detected 2 - 1 = X-ray protect (high voltage or beam current) 2 - 2 = Short protect (short protect monitors low voltage supplies) 2 - 3 = Deflection protect (this could be loss of vertical or horizontal deflection) 2 - 4 = Vertical protect (usually loss of vertical from the source) 1. SHUTDOWN AT POWER WITH SELF DIAGNOSIS ERROR 2 2. CHECK FOR LEAKY C9A60 470 PF 1000 V PART # 154P400030, PARALLEL TO D9A57 ON THE POWER PCB (NOT SHOWN IN THE SCHEMATIC). 2. SHUTDOWN AT POWER WITH SELF DIAGNOSIS ERROR 2 2. CHECK FOR OPEN FUSES F9A04 AND F9A05 PART # 283P043090 ON THE +24 AND -24 VOLT LINES. IF THE FUSES ARE OPEN THE CONVERGENCE OUTPUT CIRCUIT WOULD BE SUSPECT. 3. SELF-DIAGNOSIS INDICATES SHORT PROTECT. CHECK FOR A SHORTED IC4B01 PART # 270P261020 (VERTICAL OUTPUT) LOADING 24-VOLT SUPPLY LINE. LOCATED ON THE MAIN PCB
SOURCE: Mitsubishi WS 65511 convergence
Go on line and get an original Sanyo STK 393-110. Next, restore the blue centering rings back to where they were before you moved them. Look at the paint marks on the rings for reference if you are not sure. Replace the IC and check the resistors nearby for signs of overheating and proper value. Also check the fuses that supply the 24v to the IC. The service manual will show you the fuse location and give you the resistor values in the blue horizontal and vertical circuit. Checklist: You need a de-soldering tool or a good quality Dry Wick. Have a small tube of heat sink compound to liberally apply to the new chip. The hardest part will be lining up the double rowed pins on the chip and getting them to seat at the same time. Next, go to the convergence menu and follow the instructions. Good luck! PS you might want to remove the chassis from the cabinet to make it easier. Be careful to unplug the speaker plug and untwist the wire ties from the cabinet. Be very careful, this job is not designed for beginners.
SOURCE: Mitsubishi WS-55819 power issue
No, that'll do it. Once you've changed em you'll know right away if somethin isn't right. But take faith and fire that puppy up. If the pix is good you did good. If something is amiss. I'd be happy to walk you through it. My money is on you though.
SOURCE: SCREEN HAS VARIES RED -BLUE-WHITE- LINE SHOWING, I TRIED USE THE
It needs to be repaired by having the convergence ICs replaced or resoldered (if intermittent).
Parts are STK 392-570. Be sure to use thermal paste on the ICs.
SOURCE: Mitsubishi WS 55805 has green, red, and blue
If you try to adjust convergence with the flash focus, perfect focus, (depending on the make of your set) or by manual convergence and the lines will not line up or even move. Your symptom sounds like a damaged convergence IC.
If you want to repair this set yourself, I have some instructions below that will be a help to you.
While it is not a very hard repair, this repair can be a bit tricky. If you have a 45W soldering iron, solder, solder wick, heat sink compound, and some basic soldering skills, you can repair the television yourself.
*** VERY IMPORTANT NOTE***
If your set is not producing a clear picture and the colors are not lining up, do not continue to watch the set as this can lead to further failure and possibly damage the individual CRT’s in the set.
I have repaired hundreds of these sets, so if you have any questions after reading the following, please reply to this post and I will help you in any way that I can.
With that aside I have some support suggestions that I have put together that may help you make an informed decision.
You should be able to get a local service center to repair this at your house for between $350.00 - $450.00, If you want to repair this set yourself, I have some instructions below that will be a help to you.
While it is not a very hard repair, this repair can be a bit tricky
How do I tell if the IC’s are damaged?
Since you cannot look inside of an IC, you will have to locate some of the components in the area around the convergence IC’s. You may be able to see some resistors that have changed colors or you test a resistor and it no longer reads the value marked by the color bands or the printed value. You will have to replace the IC’s and the supporting components.
When you remove the old IC's, please be sure to remove all of the old heat sink compound, as it can act as an insulator for the new IC's and cause them to overheat. I usually clean the heat sinks with alcohol and a small rag.
Where are the IC’s located and how do I find them?
There are two and large IC’s that control the convergence in a big screen set. Some of the newer sets only have one. If you only have one, it is right in the middle of the set on the center circuit board. They are secured to a very large aluminum heat sink. They will have a part number stamped on them that will start with an STKXXX-XXX, like STK392-110.
Along with the convergence IC’s there will also be some associated components that will need to be replaced as well. There are some resistors that are part of the convergence circuit that will be open and need to be replaced. Most likely these will appear charred in the center. If you have an Ohm Meter or a DVM, check all the resistors that are close to the IC’s and you should be looking for either ones that have opened or have changed values.
If one of the convergence IC’s are found to be bad, I would replace them both, if one has gone bad the other may go soon. I usually order my parts from Andrews Electronics in California, they will have the OEM components that you will need.
Their site is http://www.andrewselectronics.com/welcome.aspx
And their phone number is a 24-Hour Order Desk: (800) 274-4666
I recommend the phone order so you can talk to the person about the different types of IC’s that are available.
I would also advise that the convergence IC’s be OEM or better, just because they are cheap does not mean that they are a good deal. I have seen the cheap IC’s fail after a short time, even though they look exactly like the OEM IC’s. I think that the bottom line is that you will get what you pay for when it comes to the parts.
You can also try http://www.tvrepairkits.com/ , they do carry OEM or better parts. When you order from them you will get a kit with instructions on how to do the repair, step-by-step.
I hope this information allows you to resolve this issue.
If you need further assistance please comment to this post and I will try to help you further.
Thanks for using FixYa
asnowman
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