My LCD too, flickers on and off, I have gone to the safe mode using F8. However, I am unable to see the screen long enough to scroll to the right line. How do I go to the right section without seeing the screen or is there another way to get there? I have a laptop but I wouldn't know how to connect it to my laptop and have the monitor connected at the same time? I am optimistic that the solution that was mentioned on11/10 could work if only I can access the screen long enough to move forward. thanks
I also had the same problem with the same monitor.
The capacitor cost $1.68 at the radio shack (30117), however, the clerk had no idea what I was talking about and had to locate the drawer myself and sift through trays to find the correct {empty} slot. They ordered it and sent it directly to me at no additional cost for shipping.
The step by step instructions listed up above on disassembling were "spot on".
Looking at the c922, I barely could tell that it was bulged on the end (similar to a coke can when it gets too hot). The 35v is considerably larger than the 16v that you take out, so careful not to cut your leads off too short before soldering back so you have enough room to manuveur it into an acceptable position when you put the monitor back together. I also used some insulation to ensure the leads (wires) would not touch any other metal parts. The leads had no + or - listed so I dunno if I guessed correctly or it is indifferent, but the monitor worked when I got it back together.
One thing is though: [And this might help those of you who tried this and believed it to not have fixed it] Initially, when I turned the monitor back on, I thought that it was doing the same on for one second and then off for a few.... but I noticed that the frequency in between the clicks were growing closer together (as in shorter intervals). So, I just left it alone for about 15 minutes and when I returned to the desk, it was working like new.
NO PROBLEMS since, however, it has only been 6-8 weeks ago. I turn it off and on now with no problems and there is no delay or having to build a charge like it had to do that first time.
Many thanks to Ozzyb for the 1st grade instructions. You gave me the confidence to try it and $1.68 and 30-45 minutes later, ** poof ** my machine is back at full speed.
Good Luck to those of you who try it yourself. What have you got to lose except $1.68? It beats spending 2-3 Ben Franklins on a new one. Trust me, I'm cheap! -Tim 10/15/2008.
I had a similar problem with this monitor and solved it by replacing C922 on the Inverter board, the 470 cap in front of it looked like it was bulging on top, so I did not take a chance I replaced it as well, I found both little taller 35v at RadioShack, it worked .....
Thanks
Mfight's comments are correct. "I have the same monitor and the power light was blinking on and off regardless of whether it was plugged into a source or not. I could see an image of the desktop cycle on briefly in conjunction with the power light. I repaired my monitor by changing out a 1000uF/16v cap (C922) and everything is working great." I would suggest changing the caps to a higher voltage rating if you have one that will fit. I installed 35V 1000uF Cap for C922. My unit also had a 470uF cap next to C922 that was bulging so I changed it also. Its an easy repair if you can solder at all. The hardest part is getting the back cover off. Remove the 4 screws that hold the base bracket in place and carefully slide it out. Then the other 5 screws on the back. (One under base plate you can't see till base is off.) Then you can remove the metal sheild and acess the PCB's. 2 Screws and the HEX standoffs at the VGA port need to be removed and it will slide off. The inverter board is the one on the left. Even at Radio Shack prices these caps should cost less than a couple bucks. I took mine off a couple junk boards I had. Replace any that are bulging at all. Many thanks to the person that threw this monitor in the dumpster for scrap metal at our local tranfer station. Works great. Ozzyb
I had a similar problem with this monitor and solved it by replacing C922 on the Inverter board. Look for a bulging top on this capacitor as compared with others of the same type. Good luck. John, K9KA
I have the same monitor and the power light was blinking on and off regardless of whether it was plugged into a source or not. I could see an image of the desktop cycle on briefly in conjunction with the power light. I repaired my monitor by changing out a 1000uF/16v cap (C922) and everything is working great.
Hi Billy6, Sounds like the back light inverter board is bad. It's a very common problem. LCD's use four small cold compact fluorescent bulbs to back light the display. (thats what gives the LCD it's brightness allowing you to see it) The inverter board runs these lights and when they go bad they will typically show symptoms like you have or the monitor power light comes on and you have either no display or a very dim display. If you ever have one that has no display but the power light is on you can check by shining a flashlight directly into the LCD from the front (right into the screen) if you can see an image then it's either the inverter board (most likely) or the CCFL bulbs have gone bad. The inverter board and CCFL's are replaceable. Good Luck, El Duderino
what are you referring to usb is gone ?
restart you computer tap the f8 key repeatedly to enter safe mode where the only things working will be your keyboard and mouse allowing you an attempt to repair your computer
If done properly the user should get to a screen similar to the below screen.
Select the option for Safe mode command prompt only
Windows Advanced Options Menu
Please select an option:
Safe Mode
Safe Mode with Networking
Safe Mode with Command Prompt
Enable Boot Logging
Enable VGA mode
Last Known Good Configuration (your most recent settings that worked)
Directory Services Restore Mode (Windows domain controllers only)
Debugging Mode
Start Windows Normally
Reboot
Return to OS Choices Menu
Use the up and down arrow keys to move the highlight to your choice.
select safe mode
Click start control panel keyboard hardware make sure you have the right keyboard selected
or you might have uninstall the keyboard then restart your computer then reinstall it and its drivers
click start control panel administrive tools computer management device manager scroll to keyboard you might see a yellow question /exclamation mark ? ! or a red X right click update driver
hope it helps
1. Let's power the computer off in order to boot it into "safe mode."
2. Restart your computer and start pressing the F8 key on your keyboard.
3. You will be presented with the Windows Advanced Options Menu that contains several options to choose from. In this case you will scroll down using the down arrow on your keyboard to the option, "Safe Mode" then press the "Enter" key on your keyboard.
4. The next screen should display "Please select the operating system to start:" typically the name of your version of windows will be displayed and highlighted in white, I recommend you just press "Enter" on your keyboard at this screen.
5. Now you will see a bunch of white writing scrolling about your screen and after a few moments you should be able to login to Windows.
6. You may receive a prompt asking if you really want to boot into Safe Mode. Choose Yes.
7. Once Windows is fully booted, you will be in safe mode.
8. Now right-click on the desktop
9. Choose "PROPERTIES"
10. The "DISPLAY PROPERTIES" menu will come up, then press on the "SETTINGS" tab
11. In this tab you will see a slider bar that can be slid from left: (Less) to right: (More). Slide the tab to the left toward the "Less" option. After positioning the slider to a lower screen resolution be sure to press "APPLY" then "OK" on the bottom of this menu
12. Now reboot your computer as you would normally and that lovely "VGA not supported" message should be long gone.
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I have this and it goes on and off and then only comes on for a second at a time?
Same here
I, too, have a Liquid Video L17LCD2 17 inch monitor which worked fine for almost 4 years. Now, upon powering up, my monitor turns on and off at about 1 second intervals. I have a second computer that uses the same monitor, so I connected the malfunctioning monitor to the second computer, and the monitor does the same thing. I then connected the working monitor to the first computer and it works fine, so it's not a computer or driver problem. I also tried switching cables. That did not correct the problem, so it's not a cable problem either. Beyond these steps, I really don't know how to trouble shoot problems of this type, so am I destined to trash this monitor? Or can you help?
My monitor was turning itself off after about 5 seconds, then I would turn it back on and it would work for about 5 seconds again.
I just replaced C922 yesterday with the 35v unit from Radioshack, and now I have the 1 second on and off problem that everyone on here has. None of the other capacitors are bulging at all. Should I replace the other capacitors with 35v units as well? (I guess I might as well, it's still all apart, and it'll only cost a few bucks...) Any other suggestions?
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