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Going through full cycle and will not heat the water

Heat elements and thermostat testet,>OK<

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Seems the washheater is out of order

Posted on Apr 17, 2012

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1answer

Candy DWI 160 dishwasher water not heating.

the only things is the TIMER: CAN BE FAULTY, maybe is stuck, not completely the cycle.
Clean the contact with special spray, loose the wires, replace burn wires, or break wires.


5_9_2012_12_39_58_pm.gif5_9_2012_12_40_42_pm.gif
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1answer

On full cycle when water turned off now not heating water

Hi Barry. Most of the times the problem is the temperature sensor located near to the heating element, at the bottom side of the appliance.

Before going for the sensor check pressure at faucet. Make sure that hot water is correctly connected and that there is pressure. If inlet is double, check water temperature at hot faucet. Test the appliance running hot water for a couple of minutes before starting the cycle.

If that is not the problem, then the heating element and thermostat must be removed from the appliance and tested. Testing is done reading impedance respectively across thermostat and element contacts. If any of the two parts returns Ohms infinity (circuit open), then the part must be replaced. If the parts comprised in the heater assembly are OK test wiring and timer board.

Operations that involve disassembling must be carried by qualified personal.
Feb 01, 2012 • Dishwashers
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Kitchenaid KUDS02FRSS0 dishwasher. Stops mid-cycle, sometimes wash, sometimes rinse, sometimes dry. Must restart 4-5-6 times to get it to finish. When finally done dishes are clean, hot & dry....

Hi Dennis.

If the dishwasher is hanging on in the middle of the cycle it is usually the heating system. If the temperature of the water is going up after filling, then the element may be working. The element is tested using a multi meter set on Ohms to read impedance across the heater element contacts. If impedance is infinity (open-off limit), then the element is gone. If the element is OK, then the bi-metal thermostat or the fuse must be replaced. The heating assembly is located at the base of the appliance, behind the kick panel.

Behind the kick panel you should also find the tech sheet illustrating how to run the diagnostic cycle for this model. Run a diagnostic cycle to confirm that the problem is with the heating system. Drain, water sensor and inlet problems sometimes may also result in cycle not finishing.

You can find parts and diagrams for your dishwasher in this page.

Regards.

Ginko
Dec 08, 2011 • Dishwashers
1helpful
1answer

I do not have the user guide for my A.O.Smith EES52 - a 50 gallon electric water heater, so my questions is; are there one or two heating elements in the tank? If two, where are they located and which...

Your water heater has two heating elements. The Two elements work in tandem to bring the water up to temp. then the top element keeps the water at temp. Here is a >>> link
9helpful
1answer

How can I tell if the heating element is gone in my Samsung model DV203AES dryer?

Hi k jeffrey510...
Before you jump right to the heating element you may want to check a few of the things below.
The way to check the heating element is included in the instructions below:

ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Check your Wiring
Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.
Check the Door Switch
If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch.
Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or the dryer,as this condition can cause heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the thermostat/thermistor due to overheat.
Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors.
>>>>>Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.<<<<<
If the heating coil is ok, then:
You can check the thermostat/thermistor one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape.
If you have an ohm meter then you can test the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse,
then you do not have to tape the wires together as described above.
If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse as it is faulty.
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST AS THIS COULD CAUSE A FIRE BECAUSE YOU HAVE REMOVED THE SAFETY.

If the thermal fuse overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset. A vent clogged with lint can cause it to overheat. You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, if no continuity, replace it)
Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on 'air fluff' / 'no heat', and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system.
If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
This is a FREE answer, Please take time to rate me
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When I turn on my Jackson Delta 5 it says that it is heating water, and that is all it will do. It will set like that until I disconnect the thermostat wire and plug it back in. Then it will continue the...

THIS could be your huckleberry! It is item 3 of suspects...
Also note ITEM 7, "heater delay relay"?

Disconnecting and reconnecting MAY be resetting that relay!?

ALSO BE VERY AWARE OF THIS:

BEFORE the heater element can be energized, the rinse
booster heater MUST be initially filled with water. Damage to
the heater element will occur if the element is not submerged
in water!


Here's your thermostat:


Jackson 5930-003-13-65 THERMOSTAT,
120-170 DEGREE "WAS"

thermo-xpxypaj2co3qxlf13c0q1l2g-5-0.jpg Find it here:

Jackson 5930 003 13 65 THERMOSTAT 120 170 DEGREE WAS
$137.11 plus shipping

OR SAVE SOME LOOT AND GO HERE:

eBay: Jackson thermostat 5930-003-06-48 175-195F
Item location: Camano Island, Washington, United States
eBay:
122938835291
$129.50 INCLUDING SHIPPING!
Get your MANUAL here:

http://www.jacksonwws.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/08/Delta-5E-manual.pdf

text: 'TEMP WASH AND RINSE: 120 degrees'
>>> 140 degrees recommended for BOTH (see page 3). <<<

TROUBLESHOOTING on Page 16 and 17!

"Wash temperature not at required reading."

1. Check that white/blue wires are connected.
2. Defective thermometer.
3. Defective thermostat.
4. Rinse heater defective.
5. Defective heater contactor (R2).
6. Incoming inlet water temperature below required minimum. 7. Defective heater delay relay (R4)

See ANOTHER GREAT troubleshooting chart here!

http://kitchen.manualsonline.com/manuals/mfg/jackson/delta_5_d.html?p=21

$50 please... JUST KIDDING
Anthony
0helpful
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0helpful
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What cause the water heater to take more than an hour to heated up and unable to last longer. Usually its take about 15 min. to heat up and can last longer.

'Rheem 81VP15S point of use' is a single-element, 15 gallon, 120V electric.
Other 'point-of-use' sizes range from 2-1/2 to 6 gallon to 20 gallon.

Electric water heaters have 2 parts: thermostat and element. One is not functioning correctly. Most likely the element caused by sediment build-up.

How to determine if tank has element or thermostat problem:
Do not turn off water going into tank. Put hose on drain valve. Open drain valve. Does water come out like open spigot? If water does not flow, then heater is likely clogged with sediment.

Solution 1: If water flows out like a spigot, the thermostat is probably bad. Read: How to replace thermostat.

Solution 2: Water does not flow, so element is surrounded by sediment build-up and cannot heat water. You need to clean out tank with shop vac, and put in new element ... plan full day and 3 trips to hardware store. Simply draining tank will not remove sediment. Sediment is chunky and will not come out voluntarily.

Buy element before starting:
-Turn off electricity
-Open cover on side of tank, remove insulation (these have to be put back for proper operation of thermostat)
-The are 2 electrical parts >>the element and the thermostat which is located above element
-Element wattage is printed on element and also shows on label on side of tank
-I think Rheem element is held in place with 4 hex bolts
-Take photo of element to hardware store so you have part on hand before removing old element
-If element is 1-1/2' diameter hex type, you need inexpensive element wrench from hardware store + the element

Drain tank and clean sediment:
-Read: To open drain on water heater so water comes out
-Read: How to clean sediment out of water heater
2helpful
1answer

Installed new upper & lower elements & thermostats, only top htr works

If original problem was caused by sediment burning out lower element, did you clean sediment out of water heater when changing lower element?
Two element water heaters are 240V.
Thermostats cut power on one hot wire, but 240V circuit has 2 hot wires. So lower element has power at all times coming from the red wire.
1) Use ordinary tester or multimeter set to 240V <> test each screw of lower element to bare metal part of water heater. Each screw should show 120V. If there is no power, then upper thermostat is defective, screw on upper thermostat is loose, or red wire between upper and lower parts of water heater is bad.
2) Remove wires from lower element. Use continuity tester or multimeter set to ohms <> test across both screws of element to see if power travels through element <> if element is bad, then continuity tester will not light up and multimeter will show no ohms. Put wires back on element after test.
3) Start with cold water in tank. Turn on water heater & upper element will turn on. Put ear on side of tank to hear if upper element is heating water. Test #3 screw to #2 screw on low left side of thermostat, should read 240V > Test #3 screw to #4 screw on low right side of thermostat, should read 0V.
Put ear on side of tank. When upper element turns off: Test #3 screw to #2 screw on low left side of thermostat, should read 0V > Test #3 screw to #4 screw on low right side of thermostat, should read 240V. If this test shows 0V and 0V, then upper thermostat is bad. If reading is correct, immediately move to next test.
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Thermostats-numbered-divided-500.jpg
4) Turn temp on lower thermostat to 150. Using ordinary tester or multimeter set to 240V <> Test across both screws of lower element. If there is no reading, and you know element is good from step 2, then lower thermostat is bad, or wire is bad between lower element and lower thermostat, or wire is bad between lower thermostat and top part of heater.
5) Test across both lower thermostat screws, should read 240V.If this test is good, it means wires are good. Put jumper wire across both screws of lower thermostat, and test lower element again. If element finally turns on with jumper wire, then lower thermostat is bad.
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http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-water-heater.html

If wire is bad between upper and lower parts of water heater, and water heater has tight-fitting 2" foam insulation, it usually indicates water heater replacement.

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Yes I have a whirlpool DU1345XTVB1 dishwasher. Just got in July. After each wash cycle the dishes are not dry. I have been using Finish gelpacs w/jetdry & also have a off brand drying agent in...

<span style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Trebuchet MS'; FONT-SIZE: 10pt; mso-ansi-language: EN" lang="EN">Hi,<br />Check your heating element.. </span><br /> <span style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Trebuchet MS'; FONT-SIZE: 10pt; mso-ansi-language: EN" lang="EN">A bad heating element causes many problems in dishwashers&hellip;<br /><br />Dishwasher Problems The Heating Element not Working<br /><a href="http://www.fixya.com/support/r4589033-dishwasher_problems_heating_element_not" target="_blank">http://www.fixya.com/support/r4589033-dishwasher_problems_heating_element_not</a><br /><br />Dishwasher Maintenance<br /><a href="http://www.fixya.com/support/r4319937-dishwasher_maintenance" target="_blank">http://www.fixya.com/support/r4319937-dishwasher_maintenance</a><br /><br />heatman101 <br /><br />Asker's Testimonial " expanation very clear. will give it a go and see how simple it was. thanks Ronnie " - ronnieshomes <br /><br style="mso-special-character: line-break" clear="all" /></span><br />
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