Hello, while I think that one of my subs had been damaged by an amplifier who was not working correctly. The amplifier damage only one of my subs!!
Now, when I press the subs when all is off, it is ok no sound. But the other subs make a little sound when I press it. And when it play the subs seem to make a little sound like a wink wink, but it play louder as the other.. but I am scare that the sub will maybe in the future broke if I continue to use it, or there is a way to fix this problem??
The one sub that you described is gone, there should be no reistance at all when you push on them. It sounds like you got your gains set to high on that amp (maybe the amp is underated for your subs). When you turn up the gain to high your cause your amp to distort and it can get as bad as sending a pure DV current to the sub. That DV current will blow subs because of all the force directed in one direction.
If you think about it the amp takes a DC current and turns it into a AC current which creates the frequecy (rate at which it alternates) that alternating current pushes and then pulls on the sub keeping it within its boundries.
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It will drive the speakers but not the subwoofer. U need to connect the subwoofer pre- output from your amplifier to another amplifier that will drive the subwoofer.
If you connect the subwoofer directly to your amplifiers speaker output it will force the subwoofer to play the entire spectrum of frequencies (not designed to do that) consequently causing damage to the sub and maybe even the amp. So use the sub pre out.
usually the external amplifiers have potentiometers that you can adjust called sub sonic and LPF. Find what your sub needs to be setup to and set the LPF to that frequency, usually 40-60hz. Find the tuning of your box or the sub sonic frequency cut-off and set it there. usually 30hz and under, this will keep your subwoofer from unloading and damaging itself.
If your subwoofer does not work on your altec lansing speakers, more than likely you blew the subwoofer amplifier board. I have an ADA-885 system and bought it brand new back in November 2000 and has been flawlessly operating great up until this past month when my subwoofer went out but my "satellite" speakers kept working. After disassembling the subwoofer box I first noticed that the subwoofer amplifier board is seperate from the rest of the grouped boards for the dolby and satellite speakers. The subwoofer box is designed to use the air from the subwoofer to actually cool the amplifier boards inside the unit, great feature until your subwoofer goes out, that is when your main amp will more than likely fail soon after the sub amp fails, as it uses the air from the subwoofer to keep the amps cool. I know this might be an older post but hopefully I can put it in the right category to hopefully be able to help someone out in the future.
You can test the ohms of the speaker with a multi tester. It's a dual voice coil speaker, 6 ohms each.
Well my system is broke and needs another subwoofer amplifier board so if anybody reads this and has this subwoofer, I need my sub amp fixed ! or if you have the subwoofer unit maybe and nothing else to go with it but the subwoofer lights up, give me a jingle, I'd buy it from you !!
Hello sir, hi, YOU DON'T bridge no more speakers, this upsets the impedance load of the amp. to install another sub-woofer, get another amplifier. You may have damaged your power amplifier, If you experience repeated fuse blows, your power amplifier is now SHORTED. This needs IC amplifier replacement.
JL W6's will perform well with from 150-600 watts RMS. W7's with from 150-500 watts. Less expensive Alpine Type R's work OK with from 200-500 watts RMS. Either of the brands will sound good. None of them will perform to their full potential with 300 watts RMS. Powering any sub with a 2-channel amp is a compromise. A monoblock is more efficient.
It sounds like this is a subwoofer box with a built in amplifier, is that correct? The issue you describe definitely sounds like a problem with either the amplifier portion or the signal to the amplifier. Do you have a way to confirm that the signal is getting to the amplifier from the head unit such as an oscilloscope or a known-good signal that you could try when the subwoofer doesn't seem to want to work?
I had a problem with no audio and I recently found the fix. When the
sub still worked and you turn it on you hear one relay click and then
about 5 seconds later a second relay clicks and the audio comes on. The
problem I had lies with that second relay. When you take the case apart
there are 4 circuit boards. The big board with the two big blue
capacitors is the main board. Well next to the two blue capacitors is a
blue relay. That relay had a pin that came un-soldered from the circuit
board. I re-soldered that pin and the sub works just like new. If you
go here http://www.eserviceinfo.com/downloadsm/20627/sony_sawm500.html
you can find a free service manual that has the wiring schematics for
the amp. Hope this helps!