Question about GE WBSE2090A Top Load Washer

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Spin and agitate problem

I'm having a problem with the spin and agitate cycles on the washer. When it gets to about 6 minutes left in the agitate, the motor starts cycling on and off, the overhead lights are dimming because of a large current draw and it ultimately throws the breaker to the circuit it's plugged into. It also does this when it's beginning a spin cycle. I used the troubling shooting for the washer, no error codes but this happens when in the "slow agitate" mode check.

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  • Anonymous Nov 20, 2006

    The current jogging you described sounds like that could be the problem. The chunka-chunka sound is heard and appears to be cause the the motor switching on and off, or in a different mode, such as mode switching. I noticed on the schematic that the default position for the motor is high. When run in the high mode, there isn't a problem but when switched to low this problem happens. I check for the capacitor, and there isn't any capacitor what so every. I followed the wires all the way back to the circuit board and found nothing. If I were to go with that being the probable cause, could I add the capacitor without replacing the motor? It looks as if GE also put a relay into the system. If I had the wiring diagram, I could easily put this modification in. I've located the relay and capacitor parts. What are your recommendations? Do I need to buy the whole motor kit? If not, where could I find a wiring diagram? Thanks for you help on this! wald

  • danopsu Feb 23, 2009

    Same problem. Hw much effort would it take to fix this?

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What a great website... I have this smae exact problem.. I do not have the capacitor or the new wiring harness. Will it harm the machine if I run it on high only? Also, I metered the red and re/white lines and it doesn't appear I have 120v during the problem. If there is a part number for the kit that would be great... Keep up the great website!

Posted on Aug 25, 2007

  • Anonymous Aug 25, 2007

    I found the item ... http://www.repairclinic.com/0081.asp?Rcc...

    You guys saved me tons of hours and money! Thanks for everything!

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Wald, a couple of things here, see if they apply to your situations. I have seen the speed selector switch on GE models go bad and send voltage to both, the high and low windings in the motor. This causes the motor to get real loud and but usually kicks out the overload in the motor. Another issue is the current jogging between the high and low windings causing a chunka-chunka-chunka effect. GE put out a motor kit with a new harness and start cap to correct this problem. Open the front panel of your washer by pusing in on the two clips just under the lid and pulling the front panel towards you. You should see the harness with the start capacitor on the right if you have the latest motor. If you are handy with a meter, you can check the white and white/red wire to the motor. If you have a steady 120 volts to the motor during this jogging, replace the motor with the new kit. Catriver..post back.

Posted on Nov 19, 2006

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