Pump panel board

You seem to be almost right, the impeller must have come off due to heavy dirt build up, the readings are OK since the motors are working. What needs to be done is to remove the drain assembly and clean before you can reset or if not replace the unit if the impeller is too loose and will not stay fit.

It is your motor controller board faulty.
Check the copper tracks for corrosion.

Hi

Error F2 in asko dishwashers indicate high water level. This may happen due to plugged drain pump or due to faulty water inlet valve. To resolve the issue remove the back plate and check the drain pump. Disconnect the hoses from the drain pump and clear the lint from the hose and the pump area. Lot of water would be there when you'll remove the hose from the pump, be ready to collect it. Let it dry and now the dishwasher will work perfectly now. Hope it helps...

Daniel

Hi


Error F2 in asko dishwashers indicate high water level. This may happen due to plugged drain pump or due to faulty water inlet valve. To resolve the issue remove the back plate and check the drain pump. Disconnect the hoses from the drain pump and clear the lint from the hose and the pump area. Lot of water would be ther when you'll remove the hose from the pump, be ready to collect it. Let it dry and now the dishwasher will work perfectly now.

Hope it helps...

Daniel

The error code F2 indicates a long drain, when the drain time exceeds 8 minutes (see images below). If you have a volt/ohm meter and are comfortable working around live electricity I can give you a few checks that will help you diagnose the problem. If you are not already sure you can perform these checks safely and competently, refer this work to a qualified professional. Working with live electrical current can be very hazardous and possibly deadly. Testing voltage output requires working with electrical current. Do not attempt these measurements without the proper tools and safeguards. I have included a set of illustrated instructions (See below). These should step you through the process of checking the drain system of your washer.

• You will need to ohm the drain pump. To ohm the drain pump gain access to the CCU (Central Control Unit), find the DP2 connector and disconnect it from the CCU. Ohm the 2 wires going down to the drain pump. It should ohm around 15 ohms.
  • If not the drain pump is bad and will need to be replaced.
• Check the drain hoses for clogs or kinks.
• Make sure the drain pump filter is clear.
• Reseat and check all wiring connections from the pump to the CCU.
• If the problem is not corrected, replace the drain pump.

You did not mention whether the washer actually pumps the water out of the washer when you are getting the F21 code. If the washer pumps the water out okay, then the pump and drain system are okay.

Excessive suds can prevent the pump from evacuating the water properly and will sometimes result in an F21. When the suds dissipate, the washer will then be able to pump out the water. Look for this type of condition if necessary.

If the drain pump runs but the washer will not drain the water, see if the washer will gravity drain. Pull the drain hose out of the stand pipe or sink and place it in a shallow pan at floor level. If the washer will gravity drain okay but will not drain when the drain pump is running then you will likely need to replace the drain pump.

If the washer will not gravity drain, then you still have a clog somewhere in the drain system. If you have not pulled the hose between the tub and the pump, then you could have a clog in this area.

If the washer does drain normally, then you could have a failed pressure switch, air pressure hose problem, wiring failure or a failed control board. I provided some technical information below that will help you test the pressure switch. Unplug the washer and remove the top panel to access the pressure switch and the electronic control board. If the tub is empty, you should measure continuity (near zero ohms) between contacts 21 and 22 on the pressure switch using a volt/ohm meter. The LEVEL 1, LEVEL 2 and OVERFLOW contacts should all measure open (infinite resistance). If the contacts on the pressure switch are okay, you can check the resistance through the wires at the electronic control board. If you get the correct resistance through the circuits measured at the control board then the control board will need to be replaced. If the wiring harness is bad, it will need to be replaced.

The fault code indicates a draining problem and the display can be cleared by pressing the Pause/Cancel button twice. The problem is either a clogged/kinked drain hose, the pressure switch is stuck in the full position, or the pump itself is not working.

The pressure switch is stuck in the full position if the machine is completely drained when the error code flashes. It indicates that the pump is working and the drain hose is clear. Replace the pressure switch and it should address the problem. Remove the screws attaching the top panel to the rear of the machine then slide the panel rearward and off the cabinet.


Either drain hose is clogged/kinked or the pump is not working if the machine is still full of water when the error code flashes. Make sure the drain hose is free from clogs and kinks and the pump impeller is not restricted.

Remove the three screws attaching the bottom flange of the lower front access panel to the cabinet then pull the panel down and off the cabinet. You can prop up the bottom front edge of the washer or cushion and lean it against the wall to access and remove the screws more easily. Remove the pump filter and clear it from any debris.



Turn the pump impeller with your finger to determine whether it is restricted or not. Replace the pump if the impeller is restricted even without a single debris blocking it.


The drain hose is clogged/kinked if water does not gush out when drained manually by gravity into a basin or bucket. Blow air into the drain hose and you should determine if clogged or not. Also remove, check, and clear the tub-to-pump hose. It is the big black hose that connects the tub and the pump as the name suggests.

Check the resistance of the pump motor windings using a volt-ohmmeter. Disconnect the wire harness from the pump terminals then measure the resistance between the terminals with the volt-ohmmeter set to the lowest Ohm scale (R X 1). Nominal resistance of the pump winding is 10 ohms. Other than that, replace the pump.

Reconnect the wire harness if the resistance of the pump winding is good then recheck it at the wire harness connector in the central control unit (CCU). Replace the wire harness if there's any discrepancy in the resistance reading.


The last line of defense is the central control unit (CCU). It is apparent that the CCU is at fault if the drain pump winding and the wire harness are all good but the CCU fails to power up the pump. Consider replacing the CCU if that is the case.

Drive Motor Tachometer Error

The control is unable to properly detect motor speed and the machine will shut down. If a failure occurs during high-speed spin the door will be unlocked after 3 minutes.

Potential Causes:

* Check wire harness connections between the Drive Motor/Tachometer and the Motor Control Unit (MCU), and between the MCU and the Central Control Unit (CCU)
* Check the Drive Motor
* Check the MCU
* Check the Wire Harness
begin troubleshooting right at the motor. Why start there? Because the motor is one of the prime suspects and it's easy to check. Remove the back panel and unwind the belt from the drum pulley. Now turn the motor pulley (sans belt) by hand. If it doesn't turn smoothly and easily, you have a bad motor.

If the motor pulley turns smoothly and easily by hand, next step is to run the motor with the belt still removed from the motor pulley. If the motor seems to run fine that way, put the belt back on and run it again. If the motor won't run under load (with the belt on), then that's another sign that the motor is bad.

Suppose the motor turns easily and freely by hand but won't run either with or without the belt. This is a more subtle condition because we're probably dealing with a bad MCU or flakey wire harness somewhere between the motor and MCU, or between the MCU and the CCU.

One trick that often works at this point is to remove and reinsert all wire connections at the board and motor. This tends to clean the small amount of corrosion that will build up on the connections. After you do this put the machine into a service cycle (see the instructions in the tech sheet found inside the unit or you can ). Part of the service cycle is running the motor at certain set speeds which checks the tach.


If you've removed/reinserted the wire harnesses and still no joy, then usually the problem is the MCU.



"F02" is a Long Drain error. If the drain time exceeds 8 minutes this error code will be displayed. In addition, a "SUDS" error may also be generated as a secondary error. This is an indication of a drain pump problem and/or clog in the drain line. You will need to check the following:

1. Check the drain hose to make sure it is not kinked or clogged.
2. Check the electrical connections to the pump and ensure the pump is running.
3. Remove the drain pump filter and check for foreign objects and/or debris.

To check the drain pump, click on the following link for step-by-step instructions.


http://www.fixya.com/support/r385844-checking_drain_pump_kenmore_elite_front

If the above procedures do not correct the problem, it is recommended by the manufacturer to replace the drain pump

F01 - There may be an internal problem with the control, attempt a Hard Reset.

Hard Reset - In some cases the control can be non-functioning or may not accept activation from the control panel. To clear and restart the control follow the these steps:

* Unplug or turn the circuit breaker off for 30 seconds.
* Reconnect the unit to the power source by turning the breaker back on or plugging the unit back into the wall outlet.
* Press the Pause/Cancel/Stop button twice to clear the "PF" in the display.
* Start a short cycle to check the operation of the machine by selecting a cycle and pressing and holding the start button until the machine starts.

The F01 generally indicates a failed electronic machine control board.
This error code can sometimes be caused by a glitch or power surge through the electrical lines.
You may be able to clear this code by unplugging the washer for 5 minutes.
If the code returns after plugging the washer back in, then the electronic machine control board will need to be replaced.

The procedure for accessing and replacing this control board is shown in this image...

http://media.fotki.com/1_p,wkwdftgtbkdgfrwxgtqsskgwtqkq,vi/ksrttqdqrxkssrqtgsd/1/1303472/5961857/image12917img-or.jpg

Be sure to unplug the washer before accessing internal components.
When you access the control board, I recommend transferring the wires from the old control board to the new replacement control board one connection at a time.
Once you have all of the wires transferred, remove the old control board and mount the new control board in the washer.
Reassemble and test the washer.

The "F01" error code indicates a communication error between the Central Control Unit (CCU) and the EEPROM onboard the CCU.
The "F01" can also be displayed if the onboard "Pump Driver" fails to activate.
Generally in order to correct this failure will require replacing the CCU.
There is no way to test and verify if the control board has failed.
The technical data sheet basically states to replace the CCU.

http://media.fotki.com/1_p,wkwdffkrdwtbgwsxgtqsskgwtqkq,vi/ksskgsfwrxksrttqdqr/1/1303472/5961857/image12923img-or.gif



The "SUDS" or "SUD" error can be caused by too much detergent, improper detergent, drain pump/drain line problem, or pressure switch malfunction.

1. If you are not using HE detergent, you need to be. These washers are designed to use HE detergent which is formulated for wash tubs that use 5 to 7 gallons of water. If you use regular detergent, you are, in affect, placing a higher concentration of detergent in the washer that is normally formulated for wash tubs that have a 35 gallon capacity. The manufacturer should have a disclaimer in the owner's manual explaining this. In most cases this will also void your warranty. NOTE: Prolonged use of the wrong detergent can damage the drain pump components and or wash tub seals.

If you are using the correct detergent, double check the label to make sure it is not double (2X) or triple (3X) concentrated. You could still be placing too much soap in your wash.

To get rid of excessive detergent, place the washer on a RINSE & SPIN cycle, then run it through a normal wash cycle with NO detergent added. You may have to repeat these steps depending on the amount of detergent used.

2. If you do not have a detergent issue, double check the drain pump and drain lines to ensure they are not obstructed in any way. Click on the following link for step-by-step instructions:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385844-checking_drain_pump_kenmore_elite_front

Obstructions in the drain pump and/or drain lines can attribute to air getting trapped in the drain pump and cause the error code. Double check all electrical connections to the drain pump and Central Control Unit (CCU). You will need to remove the top panel of the washer to access the CCU. This is accomplished by removing the three screws in the back of the washer that hold the top panel in place. With the screws removed, slide the panel back, then off. The CCU is located directly behind the wash tub in the center of the washer. The Drain Pump connector will be the 6th connector (facing from the front L to R) in the center of the CCU.

3. Check the Pressure Switch to ensure it is good. The Pressure Switch is located to the right of the CCU as you are looking from the front. It is a small cylindrical shaped device with a connector plug and an air hose attached. The switch can be checked at several water levels by removing the plug and taking resistance readings at the connector pins. Readings are as follows:

(Pins are numbered R to L facing the from the REAR)

Pins 1 to 2 (SUDS Detect) - 0 ohms
Pins 3 to 4 (Overflow) - 0 ohms
Pins 4 to 5 (L1) - 0 ohms
Pins 4 to 6 (Empty) - 0 ohms

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harborstuff,
The code on your machine stands for 'Long Drain'. Ld flashes if it takes longer than 5 minutes to pump out water to a point where the operating pressure switch resets. I would bet that the bath mats left a bunch of stuff stuck in the recirculation pump hose, or pump itself, and the water cannot be drained fast enough. Check the intake and exit hoses of the recirc pump. It's easiest to get to the pump through the front panel of the machine(click here). Looks like this: click here. Hope this helps.
(Definitely get under there and check to make sure the pump hoses are not clogged. At $129 it's an expensive fix for a $10 bath mat that clogged up the hose with fuzz. 'know what I'm sayin'' :o) )

-samson39

BTW, I have the maintenance manual & have experience at replacing the recirc. pump, control board, motor board, touchpad, & lid switch so far.

Based on what you said about clicking noise from pump and pump getting hot (this pump is liquid cooled-sealed) I would recommend replacing the pump first then the control board. Board is located on top right front corner, not inside console area, simply slide the top back to see this. unit slides back to unmount. however as I said before this code did not exist and usually means bad board and this is common on whirlpool made machines. you do not need buy this from sears, use sears for part numbers these are whirlpool numbers.