I'm trying to hang my flatscreen tv above fireplace and need help

This is a bit of a project.
If a brick or wood framed fireplace.
If brick then I would suggest covering the bottom with fireplace bricks set on there side and cut in to fit. This will raise the floor about 5 ". You must make sure that the chimney is cleaned of creosote so you don't get a chimney fire. Get a little taller grate.

Wood framed fireplace you will need to remove the siding to wood framing around the firebox and cut out the firebox from frame , cut a foot off the stack use fire brick 2 high under the box and reinstall. Don't have to take it out just move it up inside the frame.

May want to consider adding a gas starter while it's apart.

Hope this helps Mike

i would say it would be a common issue as unit firebox
ages heats and cools ..so often
if you cant buy the casing or
find a used unit for sale with a good casing

depending on which material in the casing is made of
if metal or aluminum
welding the crack or a patch repair
may be possible because it is at the top of the unit
if cast iron needs a special pre- heating method of repair
or a new casting made

found this link out of new york area
DVHVAC36

I would say it would be a common issue as unit firebox
ages heats and cools ..so often
if you cant buy the casing or
find a used unit for sale with a good casing

depending on which material in the casing is made of
if metal or aluminum
welding the crack or a patch repair
may be possible because it is at the top of the unit
if cast iron needs a special pre- heating method of repair
or a new casting made

found this link out of new york area
DVHVAC36 DVHVAC36

I am sorry, but there is insufficient information to give a proper answer. If it is a vented logset, is it in a vented indoor firebox/fireplace or an outdoor fireplace?

• I'm going to assume your fireplace has a pilot light.
  
• Follow the little holes in the burner that lead to the pilot light.
• Make sure the pilot flame is pointing directly at the closest burner hole. (adjust if necessary).
• Often, you will need to sprinkle a layer of "glowing embers" in this area. The embers will help the gas travel to the pilot light and ignite.
• Always start your propane appliance on "High" never "Low". Cold propane likes to drop to the bottom of the firebox and accumulate until it reaches the pilot (this is called delayed ignition). Keeping it on "high" will help the fuel travel over to the pilot without buildup.

Roger. it depends of whether this is a Gas Fireplace or a Wood Burning Fireplace?

If it's a direct vent gas fireplace, the blower was installed incorrectly. To access the blower, you will have to dismantle most of the interior of the firebox and the burner tray (Interior floor of the firebox). This will involve disconnecting the gas line from the burner. The blower is on the floor of the control compartment and is attached to the rear wall of the control compartment. Whoever installed it, has it aimed in the wrong direction. Which is can of hard to do, since there is an arrow on it, pointing in the UP direction. Once you unplug it, you can take out the sheet metal screws that hold it in place, and it will be quite obvious which way the exhaust should face. Which is UP.

Now that I've told you how to do all of that, I must be totally honest, by telling you, the blower will not increase it's efficiency. Your Direct Vent Gas Fireplace is rated as a Decorative Gas Appliance only. It is not heater rated. In fact, 80 % of all the heat goes out the direct vent. The only real heat, is generated off the glass, once it's hot.

So now, you get the chance to make the decision. With all that's involved, is worth changing the blower and not really gain anything?

If you have a wood burning, brick fireplace Heat-a-Lator, just turning the fan motor around, so that it's pulling air into the chamber, will solve the problem.

I really hope all of this has helped you. If I can be of further assistance please let me know. Thanks.

As you are aware the Marco Fireplace Co is no longer in business. However, the blower model # you listed is a DESA/Vanguard part number. In any event, it may work.

The blower goes in the lower compartment (probably louvered) under the firebox. It is then attached to the rear wall of the compartment, with the blower output facing up the back wall of the firebox. There should be an arrow on the blower housing indicating which way it should point.

If your firebox is already wired for a blower and has a duplex receptacle in place (for the blower to plug into), you're in business. If it doesn't I highly recommend that you install one and not try to hard wire the blower.

The blower, if purchased new, should come will all the hardware to mount it. If it didn't you can use sheet metal screws to attach it to the rear wall of the firebox. However, make sure that you put a rubber flat washer behind the mounting frame and then screw thru it into the firebox wall. This will help eliminate vibration and noise.

Hope this helps to get you started.

From what you described, it sounds like a homemade gas log lighter for a masonry, wood burning fireplace. The Key in the wall is to turn the gas on and off. With that said, no it's not a gas fireplace per se. It's used to light firewood. However, if you don't want to burn wood (with all the fuss, muss & dust. You may be able to install a 99.9% efficient, Vent-free Gas Log Set, by using the existing gas line.

However, it's not a case of one size fits all. You will need to know the following concerning the interior of your firebox: Width, Height, Depth (from the center of the opening to the rear wall of the firebox, on the floor of the firebox) and the Width at the back. And the final dimension (if you have a wood mantle) The distance from the top of the opening of the firebox to the bottom of the mantle shelf. If it's less than 18", Code requires a heat deflector hood to be installed to the top of the opening of the firebox, to direct the heat down and away from the mantle.

Generally speaking, I do not recommend this as a DIY project, If you decide to pursue this, contact a professional in your area that sells and installs Vent-free Gas Log Sets. That way, you'll be able to determine which BTU Output is suitable for your application. They're usually in the Yellow Pages under Fireplaces.

Two pieces of advice:

1. When it comes to BTU Output more is not better. Gas is a warm moist heat, that you'll feel very quickly and it's very comfortable. You actually can do more with less.

2. Avoid Ceramic Fiber Logs. They are very fragile and do not hold heat and radiate it back into the room. Stick with Refractory Concrete Logs. They are heavy and very durable. They get hot hold heat and radiate back into to the room, even after the burner is turned off.

Everything I have told you is based on by 15 years in the hearth business.

As long as the set is mounted correctly, there should be no real trouble with heat.
The Mounts, are/maybe standard, however it is the fastening that will differ, if stone, brick, concrete then special fixings must be used, apart from that you will be all good.

Both LCD TVs and plasma TVs get hot, though plasma TVs tend to be a bit hotter in my experience. Also, plasma TVs are going out of fashion.

A lot will depend on the construction of your fireplace. If it's brick it should insulate fairly well.

Either way, I would recommend a mounting solution that does not put the back of the TV flush with the wall. Get one that tilts. I would avoid the "arm" style ones as that will put additional strain on the mounting.

Remember to think about how you want to run your power and video cabling as well!