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older viking have large round nut with 2 holes
you can insert needle nose pliers into holes to turn
you can also use pipe wrench on round part of nut
if the nut is seised on you may have to drill out and replace nut and jet holder that nut screws onto
If you mower's connection rod was attached with a "castle nut" then you will need to order part number 42321 (800-487-5951)This is an "E-Clip" and is used to replace the Castle nut. If the drive rod was attached by a nut, then you will need to outsource the nut. It is not available separately at this time.
There is a nut in the center of the blades. The
easiest way to remove this nut is with an impact wrench. If you don't have one there is
usually a hole in the disc where you can insert a screw driver to lock the blade from from turning and you will need a long handle ratchet in order to give enough torque to remove the nut. Once the nut is removed, the blade will slide right off. If you are doing this to sharpen the blades, you do not need to remove the blade to do this. Use a 1/2 HP grinder wheel and just evenly slide the wheel down the blade until it is sharp. CAUTION: it will cut you finger. Make sure you disconnect the power and the fuel is turned off at the time you do any of this work....
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Get a new collet and nut the 1/2" collet is crappy, it is too thin and pushes out of the nut easily.
You may also make sure that the collet did not seperate from the nut. remove the nut completely and if the collet is not attached, remove the collet from the spindle, insert inthe nut and then insert the bit through the collet while holding it and then put the hole thing back on the spindle (mtor shaft) and tighten it.
Every piece of equipment has a model number you can check this link https://plweb.evenflo.com/replacement_parts.aspx You should be able to get replacements. You can also call them they would be happy to find a replacement for you. These things get lost from time to time or just get worn and torn. Here is a number for you to call.
US: 1-800-233-5921 Canada: 1-937-773-3971
Hours of Operation Monday - Friday 8:00 a.m. – 5:00 p.m. Eastern Standard Time
Depending to what model you have, the Sprocket cover tab (located on the round part of the sprocket cover) isn’t inserted into the saw body tab slot. Or your cahin is not tensioned properly. According to the manufacturer... "The adjusting block on the adjusting screw isn’t inserted into the adjusting hole on the guide bar. Reinstall and align the sprocket cover by first removing the sprocket cover from the saw. Turn tensioning screw on the sprocket cover counter-clockwise until it stops. Pull guide bar away from saw body to remove slack from chain. Insert sprocket cover tab into saw body tab slot and lower sprocket cover into guide bar bolt. Finger tighten guide bar nut onto guide bar bolt. Slowly push guide bar toward saw body until adjusting block on the adjusting screw drops into round adjusting hole on the guide bar. Securely tighten guide bar nut after properly tensioning saw chain." If these tips do not work, you may need a new chain. You can order an new chain on-line at www.masterparts.net. I hope this helps you!
Don't worry about the metric size. Just call a Suzuki parts department and tell them Year and Model of your bike and see if they have a nut in stock. The nut is what is called a "castle nut". There should be a cotter pin inserted through the castle and through the drill hole in the axle then spread around the nut. This keeps the nut from coming loose.
I believe the part number for the nut is 09159-12027
The cotter pin number is 04111-25308
Jack up vehicle; back off set nut that connects outer to inner tie rod; remove cotter pin and castle nut from outer ball socket of t/r end; take a 'pickle fork' and tap between joint and steering knuckle to separate; then unscrew the outer t/r from the inner t/r, "counting the number of turns until completely off. Run the new locking nut onto new tir rod end; turn t/r same number of turns, and lock set nut; runt the new post of t/r end back into steering knuckle, tap down with a hammer, and use new castle nut to tighten; insert new cotter pin and grease fitting; again tighted locking nut to inner t/r; grease new t/r end...good to go!