I recently purchased a Kenwood Kac-9152D Amplifier, which is powering one PowerAkoustik FUBR 12" Subwoofer. i also wired in a 2 farad capacitor. Sometimes after i have my sub booming for a while, all the sudden the amp kicks out. usually if i wait 5 minutes or so it will come back on. Any suggestions as to solving my problem
Your problem is that the transistors on the circuit board are shorting out on the back panel of the case. is the amp connected to the sub box? its caused by the vibrations through the box and amp. take off the back cover and look for some scorch marks, if there is any, find the leads on the circuit board that are causing it and bend them down a bit. i had the same problem with my amp, and so have many other people. this fixed my amp, and it has worked fine for many years after using this solution. if anyone has this problem and needs help with fixing it, email me at [email protected]
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1.-check proper heat sink, or dissipation.
2.- check speaker impedance. Must match between amp and speakers.
3.-low power line on the house may cause low efficience work on the amp, overheat, and finally fuse protection.
4.- finally, check speaker wires. Thin cable overheat amp too.
A stereo or amp, either one should have a fuse, fuses for radios would be in the wiring harness behind the radio deck. An amp fuse should be obvious were they insert in the fuse blocks by the amps main power cable connector. If you see that all fuses are fine then check your ground wires if not then your radio is bad.
either the wiring your running is short circuting,or the amp is shot, or the subwoofer is shot, try hooking the same speaker up to the other amp. along with the other speaker to the other amp, see if the same thing happens.
I agree with the last answer- your amp has built in fuses that should be rated at 30 amperes each which should be sufficient as the amp only pulls 60 amperes at full power-however you may want to upgrade your power /ground wires to a good 4 gauge set if you dont already have it set up like that-throw an 80-100 amp fuse up front by the battery in case your running another amp for mids and highs just to cover the current draw of the amps combined. If the amp is still blowing fuses after that check to make sure that your subs are wired to no lower than a 2 ohm load as the amp is only stable to 2 ohms.
Check the fuses-should be a pair of 30 amps on the side. use a paper clip and jump power from the power+ to the remote+ and see if that lights it up-if it does than your remote lead isnt giving it juice-
Dang! That's a class D anp! How did you fry it? If you "replaced" the internal ground wire and now it just blows fuses, I would say that the amp is direct shorted at the power supply if the fusesblow instantly when you put the fuses in.
If the battery is strong enough to start the engine, you probably have a bad connection or a defective fuse in the power wiring. If you solve the voltage problem and the amp blows fuses, it likely has shorted output transistors.