Well I just added a new, much more powerful power supply to my system. The problem I'm having is that the system now will not boot up. It turns on for about 1 second before then shutting right back down. I tested every connection individually and found that the cord that connects from the rightmost side of my power supply (A blue 8 pin to the right of the main 24 pin motherboard power supply) is what is causing the system to fail. Upon trying to boot it up with this unplugged, it works, but I get no display, and seeing as the 4 pin connection it runs to is just to the left of the GPUs (I have dual with SLI), I'm assuming this is the connection that powers them.
System Specs:
3 GHz dual core pentium processor
3 gigs of DD2 RAM
dual GeForce 8600 GT graphic cards connected with SLI card
Five cooling fans, two LED.
The new power supply is a 950W, the old was 600W. This new one uses the detachable wire bundles whereas the old had all the wires connected inside the system.
There should also be a brand - the nVidia just relates to the chipset that the board uses, but its OK, lets check the wiring first. If we still have trouble I'll get you to double check for the brand name.
Lets just check that you have the following plugs in place:
Does your current setup match that?
OK, great you have the setup correct. The motherboard is expecting a signal OK reponse from the PSU before it will start. Â This sounds like it is not happening for one of two reasons:The PSU is (co-incidently) faulty and not outputting this signal. Â I have had far stranger coincidences occur. Â You can check this by booting another system with the PSU or testing it with a PSU tester (approx $30 from a gadgest store, eg Tandy).
The motherboard is flakey - most likely this is the case. Â This would also explain the initial crashing you have with the older PSU. Â The old PSU may have a slightly different power output coming through the motherboard connectors so that the board identifies the OK signal correctly. Â The newer PSU would most likely not be allowing this signal to go to the board as it has detected a fault. Â Rule out the new PSU to start off with, but I am sure that this is where the problem is coming from.
Other things to check which can sometimes help: reseating the memory and the CPU. Â Most likely won't help, but most tech guys are happier if you have tried this. Â Don't remove and replace the CPU unless you have some new thermal paste handy to put under the heat sink (after you have cleaned the old thermal paste out of course), remembering that you only need a rice grain sized drop of thermal paste on the CPU.
Whoops, did not see the EliteGroup section in the title. Â Yes, ECS is the brand. Â Thanks. Â Not that it really matters too much at this stage unfortunately.
Unfortunately yes, if it is the board, that is what will require replacing. Â This can sometimes be a good thing as you can get something that will support a better upgrade path and more features.
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It's a Coolmax 950W Sli ready PSU. We also tried an ultra 750W power supply and had the same issue, though didn't go into the details of the pulling out wires because I wasn't around so my Dad just figured it was defective and replaced it with the old one.
It says here that it's Model NO: CUG SERIES.
Oh and for extra information, before I got the new PSU and the reason I did was because before, with the old one in, the computer would randomly just shut down while I was doing things, generally when I was running multiple programs at one time, and someone recommended I get a new PSU because the old one may be dying. The old one still works right now, it just has that crashing issue every now and then.
The motherboard is an NFORCE 570 ****-A
umm...570 Sl1T-A, apparently it's censored.
Yes my set up matches that, the issue at hand is the fact that when the CPU power, the 12v P4 connector plug, is causing it to fail to start up. When this is unplugged, the system activates and stays powered, however, it does not boot.
ECS NFORCE 570 SL1T-A is what's in the white. It also says FSB 1066 on it too.
Okay that's what I was figuring it was. So I figure the temporary solution would be use the old PSU, but really I'll need to replace the motherboard, won't I?
Last clarification request - do you know the motherboard name/model? Â It's usually stamped on the board in reasonably large white text.
It sounds like the 12v rail may be getting overloaded. Â Can you post the model/brand of the new PSU so I can give you more accurate info on the wiring suggestions?
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