I am looking at purchasing a 503cx and noticed that when the rear curtain folds back after firing sometimes the bottom curtain does not close fully, leaving a tiny gap that does let in a tiny amount of light. This does not occur every time. And the gap this is present is about 3mm. I thought this could be from lack of use as the camera has not been used for about 6 months. Any Advice. Thanks
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Re: rear curtain won't close fully
It's a sign the mechanism needs a cleaning and lube. Temporarily you might try releasing the shutter ( without a lens mounted ) and locking the release button down. Then CAREFULLY from the back, put a little upward pressure on the metal curtain 1/4 inch or so, to twist the curtain slightly on it's shaft. Don't pull to far or you can do permanent damage.
You should have a repair shop take care of it.
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First make sure the trays glide smoothly and one side or the other has not fallen off one of the tracks. Next, make sure the the rear sprayer supply port is hiiting directly into the hole. If you look at the very back you will notice this port hole that needs to be lined up to you adjustable tray when fully slid back. If everything checks out then check the bottom gasket of your door while it is fully open. Check to see if it feels firmly intact and make sure no little utinsils like a chop stick is not stuck down there.
That's entirely correct. 1/250th is the fastest shutter speed you can use when using flash. Many other cameras can still only use 1/60th or 1/125. It's all to do with the two curtain nature of an SLR shutter: when you release the shutter, one curtain withdraws across the frame to expose and then a second one follows behind to shut off the light source. For exposures of 1/250 or slower on your camera, the second curtain does not start to travel across until the first one has fully opened, so you have a fully open exposure frame allowing the flash to reach every part of the sensor. At faster speeds, the second curtain sets off before the first one has finished and at the highest speeds it's so close behind the first that only a narrow **** is open to the incoming light as the shutter curtains pass across the sensor. If you fire the flash at these speeds the shadow of the first or second (or both) curtains will appear on the sensor and the picture will look like a narrow horizontal band, or if using fill in flash, it will look like a bright band across the picture.
It's immaterial though as the normal exposure rules don't apply with flash: the flash duration is typically anywhere from 1/4000th to 1/50000th and in that exposure time it outputs sufficient light onto the subject to enable a photo to be captured. As the flash is the dominant light source, the ambient light captured when the shutter is open for 1/250th is insignificant unless you're making a daylight exposure and using the flash for fill in purposes.
There are some specialist SLR and flash combos which will allow the full range of shutter speeds, but they do so by firing the flash multiple times very rapidly to ensure that there is flash light present effectively continuously as the narrow exposure **** passes across the sensor.
Compact cameras have shutters which work differently and which fully
expose the sensor at all shutter speeds, so in that respect they can
have a far more flexible flash exposure system. Unfortunately, they ruin
it by having pathetically weak built-in flashes which are only good for
very short distances.
This tv set it hookup to recieve over the free air DTV signal right?Get a better antena,hook up to a digital antena or a roof antena.This problems should be solved,when u get a better and stronger signals.
With the shutter curtain out of place the camera will not function. If it is only out a little you may be able to persuade the shutter blades to fall back into position. If you bend them, or if they are out of the proper tracks then the camera will have to be sent to a repair service for repair.
Unless you are using high-end Nikon Speedlights with camera and flash set for Auto FP High-Speed Sync, your top flash sync shutter speed on the D80 is 1/200 second. The black band you are seeing at faster shutter speeds is because the second curtain of the shutter begins to close before the first curtain reaches the fully-open position (which is when the flash fires). The higher the shutter speed, the shorter the gap between first and second curtains. To get full exposure with flash, there must be an instant when the shutter is fully open -- first curtain completed travel, second curtain not started yet.
"As the speed increases the final image should get lighter" applies to ISO speed. Higher shutter speeds mean less light reaching the sensor, but that's not the cause of the black bands.
typically this is a problem with flash photography.
are you using flash?
the speed of exposure, the time that the film is exposed is controlled by two curtains that cover the film and prevent light from striking it. One curtain is across the film at the start, and springs open, then the second which was open, springs shut.
for 'long' exposures the first one opens time passes and then the second closes, but to achieve very short times, the second curtain starts to close before the first one has fully cleared the opening. so the edge of the second curtain can be traveling fractions of a second behind the first.
the result is that NOT ALL OF YOUR FILM is exposed to light at the same instant. If you have a flash go off during a fast exposure, only that portion of film that is exposes when the flash fires will get the proper amount of light, the rest of the film being blocked by a curtain. Most cameras are wired to fire the flash as soon as the first curtain is fully open and before the second starts to close. If you have a faster speed set in your camera by mistake, the second curtain has already started to close when the flash goes off. The black area on the right side is that portion of film that was already covered by that second curtain when the flash fired.
if you have the camera set correctly (typically at 1/60th or 1/100th sec) then maybe you should take the camera to a local camera store, and have the curtains timed...
I think the timing of the shutter winding gears has slipped a tooth or two. look at the picture in this image:
Near the motor drive coupler at the bottom you will see a blue and a white gear. Look closely at the blue gear and you will see a line on the top of it. That line needs to be pointed at the center of the white gear when the camera has been released and ready to be advanced again.
If you wish to proceed, I will tell you how to re-time the gears.
Possibly the film did not go through the camera. If it did, the problem may be the 2nd(or closing)curtain magnet on the bottom of the camera.
When the magnet is working the closing curtain of the shutter is held back 1 to 1000 miliseconds-depending on the shutter speed selected by you. 1ms=1/1000 sec. 1000ms=1 sec.
You can tell by 1. removing the lens 2.setting the shutter speed to the "B" setting 3. opening the film door and looking through the camera 4. releasing or firing the camera and keeping pressure on the release button. If the magnet is working, the shutter will stay open as long as the release button is kept pressed down. The closing curtain will close as soon as the release button is released.
When the magnet fails, both curtains travel across the film plane together and no exposure is made. Sometimes there is corrosion on the magnet where the wires connect. Sometimes there is some foreign substance or object that interferes with the face of the metal unit that attaches to the magnet when the camera is wound. Sometimes the magnet just fails and needs to be replaced.
If the magnet checks out OK the problem may be in the circuits that control the release of the magnet. If this is the problem, the camera needs to be looked at by a competent repair shop. Just so you know, new parts are getting hard to come by, but there are tons of used cameras around that parts can taken from. Hope this helps.