Rear curtain won't close fully

The proper order of exposure should be:

Curtain opens/Lense stops down (unless wide open)
Lense shutter closes
When releasing button, curtain closes
When winding, lense shutter opens

If this isn't what's happening, something is wrong. There is only a simple mechanical screw connection between body and lense, so it'd have to be an issue with the gears in the body.

First make sure the trays glide smoothly and one side or the other has not fallen off one of the tracks. Next, make sure the the rear sprayer supply port is hiiting directly into the hole. If you look at the very back you will notice this port hole that needs to be lined up to you adjustable tray when fully slid back. If everything checks out then check the bottom gasket of your door while it is fully open. Check to see if it feels firmly intact and make sure no little utinsils like a chop stick is not stuck down there.

That's entirely correct. 1/250th is the fastest shutter speed you can use when using flash. Many other cameras can still only use 1/60th or 1/125. It's all to do with the two curtain nature of an SLR shutter: when you release the shutter, one curtain withdraws across the frame to expose and then a second one follows behind to shut off the light source. For exposures of 1/250 or slower on your camera, the second curtain does not start to travel across until the first one has fully opened, so you have a fully open exposure frame allowing the flash to reach every part of the sensor. At faster speeds, the second curtain sets off before the first one has finished and at the highest speeds it's so close behind the first that only a narrow **** is open to the incoming light as the shutter curtains pass across the sensor. If you fire the flash at these speeds the shadow of the first or second (or both) curtains will appear on the sensor and the picture will look like a narrow horizontal band, or if using fill in flash, it will look like a bright band across the picture.

It's immaterial though as the normal exposure rules don't apply with flash: the flash duration is typically anywhere from 1/4000th to 1/50000th and in that exposure time it outputs sufficient light onto the subject to enable a photo to be captured. As the flash is the dominant light source, the ambient light captured when the shutter is open for 1/250th is insignificant unless you're making a daylight exposure and using the flash for fill in purposes.

There are some specialist SLR and flash combos which will allow the full range of shutter speeds, but they do so by firing the flash multiple times very rapidly to ensure that there is flash light present effectively continuously as the narrow exposure **** passes across the sensor.

Compact cameras have shutters which work differently and which fully expose the sensor at all shutter speeds, so in that respect they can have a far more flexible flash exposure system. Unfortunately, they ruin it by having pathetically weak built-in flashes which are only good for very short distances.

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With the shutter curtain out of place the camera will not function. If it is only out a little you may be able to persuade the shutter blades to fall back into position. If you bend them, or if they are out of the proper tracks then the camera will have to be sent to a repair service for repair.

Unless you are using high-end Nikon Speedlights with camera and flash set for Auto FP High-Speed Sync, your top flash sync shutter speed on the D80 is 1/200 second. The black band you are seeing at faster shutter speeds is because the second curtain of the shutter begins to close before the first curtain reaches the fully-open position (which is when the flash fires). The higher the shutter speed, the shorter the gap between first and second curtains. To get full exposure with flash, there must be an instant when the shutter is fully open -- first curtain completed travel, second curtain not started yet.

"As the speed increases the final image should get lighter" applies to ISO speed. Higher shutter speeds mean less light reaching the sensor, but that's not the cause of the black bands.

typically this is a problem with flash photography.
are you using flash?

the speed of exposure, the time that the film is exposed is controlled by two curtains that cover the film and prevent light from striking it. One curtain is across the film at the start, and springs open, then the second which was open, springs shut.
for 'long' exposures the first one opens time passes and then the second closes, but to achieve very short times, the second curtain starts to close before the first one has fully cleared the opening. so the edge of the second curtain can be traveling fractions of a second behind the first.
the result is that NOT ALL OF YOUR FILM is exposed to light at the same instant. If you have a flash go off during a fast exposure, only that portion of film that is exposes when the flash fires will get the proper amount of light, the rest of the film being blocked by a curtain. Most cameras are wired to fire the flash as soon as the first curtain is fully open and before the second starts to close. If you have a faster speed set in your camera by mistake, the second curtain has already started to close when the flash goes off. The black area on the right side is that portion of film that was already covered by that second curtain when the flash fired.

if you have the camera set correctly (typically at 1/60th or 1/100th sec) then maybe you should take the camera to a local camera store, and have the curtains timed...

This is a professional job for a conv. top shop. has to be sewn in at the bottom.

Removal
NOTE: Mark vinyl to be removed so it can be returned to the same position after disassembly.

1. Remove sail area panels as outlined.

1. Remove staples retaining elastic straps at each side of back window glass (42006) to rear tacking strip and folding top rear number 4 bow (51278) and remove elastic straps.

1. Remove staples retaining rear bow corner pad (537A71) and bottom of folding top back window curtain (52500) to rear tacking strips.

1. Remove staples retaining top of folding top back window curtain to folding top rear number 4 bow and remove back window glass .

1994 mustang. don't have 89 Window, Rear Installation
NOTE: Transfer markings from the removed assembly.

1. Mark with grease pencil center point on folding top rear number 4 bow in line with hole on rear of folding top rear number 4 bow .
   

I think the timing of the shutter winding gears has slipped a tooth or two. look at the picture in this image:

http://www.twid.de/x700/pic03.jpg

Near the motor drive coupler at the bottom you will see a blue and a white gear. Look closely at the blue gear and you will see a line on the top of it. That line needs to be pointed at the center of the white gear when the camera has been released and ready to be advanced again.

If you wish to proceed, I will tell you how to re-time the gears.

Possibly the film did not go through the camera. If it did, the problem may be the 2nd(or closing)curtain magnet on the bottom of the camera. When the magnet is working the closing curtain of the shutter is held back 1 to 1000 miliseconds-depending on the shutter speed selected by you. 1ms=1/1000 sec. 1000ms=1 sec. You can tell by 1. removing the lens 2.setting the shutter speed to the "B" setting 3. opening the film door and looking through the camera 4. releasing or firing the camera and keeping pressure on the release button. If the magnet is working, the shutter will stay open as long as the release button is kept pressed down. The closing curtain will close as soon as the release button is released. When the magnet fails, both curtains travel across the film plane together and no exposure is made. Sometimes there is corrosion on the magnet where the wires connect. Sometimes there is some foreign substance or object that interferes with the face of the metal unit that attaches to the magnet when the camera is wound. Sometimes the magnet just fails and needs to be replaced. If the magnet checks out OK the problem may be in the circuits that control the release of the magnet. If this is the problem, the camera needs to be looked at by a competent repair shop. Just so you know, new parts are getting hard to come by, but there are tons of used cameras around that parts can taken from. Hope this helps.