Subs will go off the wall with bass, but not in tune with music.
I just recently installed a pair of 10" mtx 5000 thunder series subs along with a 1000 watt d series mtx amp. the subs are going wild . they bump the loudest bass ever the only problem is that they are doing it constantly, with no tune what so ever. it is just thuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuump until i turn down the gain or mess with the eq or freq. there is no bass or treble settings on this amp. these are the specs for the amp:
RMS Power at 12.5V:
1 x 500W @ 4 ohms (<0.5% THD)
1 x 1000W @ 2 ohms (<1% THD)
Dynamic Power at 14.4V (IHF-202):
1 x 850W @ 4 ohms
1 x 1500W @ 2 ohms
S/N Ratio: 100dBA
Damping Factor: >200
Freq. Response: 20Hz ∼ 200Hz
Fuse: External 150A
Dimensions: 14" x 9" x 2" (35.6cm x 22.8cm x 5cm)
i think it may be my rca connections, but i realy don't know
Hi, first disconnect the rca input, then switch on headunit and if the amp produces a constant bass thump it then means it has an internal fault. if the amp idles quietly then replace the rca cable, or try connecting the headunit lineout feed directly to the bass amp, in this way you cud find out if your fault is coming from the headunit or the equaliser. cheers
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The MTX Thunder 6000 T61544A is a 15" Subwoofer meaning you will need a 15" hole to fit the subwoofer into. The mounting plate that surrounds the subwoofer will extend past 15" allowing you to screw the sub in properly. Be sure to use a box that is at least 12 inches deep (sub is 10 inches deep by specifications + 2 inches for good air cushion behind.
Is there a option on the chanels that say ''Bridged''? If so, you can hook the subs up in parellel or series to get different ohm loads. Usually the lower ohms, the more power amp puts out. Those subs can handle 225 watts RMS whitch means the power it can handle constantly. If the amp gives more than 225 watts RMs, you could be at risk of blowing the sub. If you could give me the model # of the amp, I can be of more help.
SINCE YOU NEED A 1 OHM LOAD, I PRESUME BRIDGED AND ARE USING TWO SUBS, THEN HOPEFULLY YOU HAVE THE DUAL VOICE COIL TYPE, AS THEY ARE DUAL 4 OHM AND YOU WILL HAVE TO CONNECT THE VOICE-COILS IN PARALLEL WHICH WILL MAKE EACH SPEAKER A 2 OHM SPEAKER AND THEN CONNECT THE TWO SPEAKERS THEMSELVES IN PARALLEL AND THIS WILL PROVIDE YOU THE 1 OHM LOAD. IF YOU IN FACT HAVE THE SINGLE 4 OHM VOICE COIL VERSION, THEN IT WILL ONLY PARALLEL THE PAIR DOWN TO 2 OHMS. OK. LET ME KNOW IF YOU NEED FURTHER ASSISTANCE.....V
Just wire one voice coil each into left and right rear respectively, in series with the original rears or if this is too quiet, wire both voice coils in parallel together and connect as per original single coil unit.
As they are 4ohms each they can simply be connected as simple speakers on each rear channel output, since thats exactly what they are, capacitors are used inside to make them react to bass frequencies only. Wiring them up is no different to wiring up a pair of 6x9's.
You can also test the output with the multimeter. Set the multimeter to AC volts. If it's not an auto-ranging meter, set it to a voltage range of ~2v AC. Disconnect the RCA cables from the head unit. Touch one meter probe to the outer ring of the head unit's RCA jack. Touch the other probe to the metal contact in the center of the RCA jack. With the head unit near full volume and a clean signal source, you should read at least one volt on musical peaks. If you have a bass disc or a test tone disc (~60hz sine wave), use those.
St the crossover to LP (low-pass), and around 80Hz for 12" subs or 120Hz for 10" subs. Turn the gain all the way DOWN. Turn the radio about 3/4 or 4/5 the way up. Adjust gain until subs start to sound a wee bit sloppy and then adjust back 1/8 of a turn. Also, DON'T turn the LOUD function on or the BASS all the way up on the radio.... these should really be flat as possible.