SOURCE: Subwoofer Ground Wire Problem
there is also the possiblity of a ground potential problem you could try running a wire from the ground point of the amp to the rear of the head unit, in this way both components have the same ground potential....second , I would take the ground loose a the point you have connected to the vehicles chassis , i then would prepare the surface by sanding a quarter <25 cent piece> area and using two washers and nylon insert lock nut, and a bolt to securely fasten your ground ,,,,also I would use a grounding wire equal too or 2x teh ga you are using for your power < battery > cable.....and lastly I would reduce the input sensitivity to your amplifier, because if u have them turned up < more sensitive> the amp will amplify abient electrical noise present in your vehicle... if this helps let me know , if it does not let me know...
SOURCE: Car Audio Problems-Amp cuts out
No the reson for the amp overheating is do to the OHM ratting that you have the sub if to have the both wired up then just wire one up and that will give you the OHM ratting that your amp is ratted for the way that you might have it is the way that we wire them for coms. where it is on for 30sec and no more. if you would like more help let me know.
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SOURCE: subwoofer wiring diagram
parallel wiring. hook all 4 positives together and run to the positive output from the amp, hook all 4 negatives together and run to the negative output from the amp.
hope this helps,
trin
SOURCE: bridge subwoofers
Without looking up the individual specs of your speaker and amp, I'll offer a few basics when it comes to bridging an amp.
Most important...find out what impedance (ohm) that your amp can handle bridged!! If you go below this rating, you will run the risk and most likely eventually overheat and short circuit the amp. You must also know the impedance of your sub (which can come in a variety) to be able to match them. Depending on this impedance match-up, it may be less beneficial to bridge the speaker to this amp. For example if there is an impedance mismatch you'll either get less power from the amp or short circuit the amp. If you know these I can help you come up with the best solution.
If you know bridging is the best option, then you'll have to know which terminals on the amp to use in order to bridge. This is how it normally works. On a 2 channel amp...you would normally take the positive from one channel to the positive on the speaker, and the negative from the OTHER channel to the negative on the speaker...and this is how you bridge the amp. The other two channels would remain UNCONNECTED. BUT!!! you have to make sure you use the correct 2 channels...it varies from manufacturer. But take heed not overload the amp...and not to overpower the sub. There are a few different ways that you can configure the subs if you find it beneficial to bridge your amp, these would take long to explain and would depend on the impedance of your subs and specs of your amp...these wiring configurations is how you match the impedance of the speakers input to the amps output (and is very important to do correctly) Look up "parallel and series" wiring configurations. Let me know if this helps, or if you need further help. Find out the impedance of your subs and the specs of your amp and i'll be able to assist you more. Hope this helps.
SOURCE: Want to bridge 2 channel amp to push single 4 ohm dvc sub
Hello k_rabbit89,
A 4 ohm DVC sub can be wired in series like you described for an 8 ohm load or the voice coils can be wired in parallel for a 2 ohm load.
If your 2-channel amp isn't stable down to 2 ohms when the channels are bridged (most 2-channel amps are only stable to 4 ohms when bridged), you do not want the voice coils paralleled. The amp will overheat, go into protection mode, and eventually fail completely. A sub with 2 ohm voice coils would be a better fit. That way, you could series the coils for a 4 ohm load and the amp would operate OK with the channels bridged into that load.
But anyway, for the best power from THAT amp to THAT sub, your best wiring solution would be to wire each voice coil to a separate channel. The problem with that is that the signal to each coil needs to be EXACTLY the same or you will have one coil trying to move the cone out while the other one tries to move it in. You can closely approximate identical signals on the output side by using the same input to both channels. Do this by using only one RCA connection (either right or left channel) from your head unit and split it with a "Y" cable.
Hope this helps.
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