My footswitch that i had from Marshall has stopped woring with my DSL100. I tried using a different single button footswitch, and it works in my amp. I bought a 1/4in mono plug that matched what's on the footswitch from the factory and soldered it to my Marshall footswitch, still nothing in my Marshall amp, but it works on a Fender amp I have. ...Help?
Does your M foot switch work on the Fender? If you know how to use a multimeter you could check continuity by putting meter leads on plug of M foot switch(1 on tip, 1 on sleeve ) You should see a change in the multi meter when you depress switch. If so switch is good. Another easy test is with cap off a spare 1/4 plug -plug it in to foot switch jack.put a alligator or some such metal clip or wire and join(called short or shorting) the two inputs . If connecting and unconnecting results in switching then the foot switch is suspect. One fairly common thing is that foot switch and input jack are often sautered straight to a circuit board to save $ on production cost. Used to be all point to point where a wire was attached to 1/4" input and then wire went to circuit board or tubes. The wire has give, but not so with direct wiring to board. So the nut holding the 1/4" amp input gets loose(doesn't have to be loose for the following to happen) and a pull on the chord causes a break in the soldier and thus a break in the sound chain. Sometimes it will work intermittingly by putting a little pressure left, right, up or down on the plugged in plug. If so, it's the input jacks connection to the amp. If not it still could be that because putting pressure on plug may not be sufficient to affect a temporary reconnection. Since switch(the new one you made)works on Fender, but not Marshall I suspect the jack or foot switch circuitry past the input jack. If using some of the above the above tests leads you that direction,remove housing(unplug a/c power 1st ) inspect jack,wiggle it slightly see or feel a break then resodier from back side. You should be able to use the soldier already present without adding extra.
SOURCE: marshall mg50dfx was working great
please check the speaker leads in the back near the edge of the driver (the heavy metal part I think theres 2 in that cabinet )
SOURCE: Fender Hot Rod Deluxe Footswitch
Main thing to verify is that the particular footswitch and cable you have is specifically for that amp. If it is not the right one, that is your problem as there is very little compatibility among footswitches.
Looking at the schematic, plugging in JUST the cable shifts operation as you observed. This uses a crazy circuit in which AC is applied on the cable and the footswitch has a diode each direction that causes the amp to shift between the states. when you plug a bare cable in, it disconnects the internal diodes and switches for control at the amp, hence the signals float.
You should investigate the footswitch to make sure it is the right type with the diodes resistors and caps that is for the Fender Deluxe.
You can find the schematic for the amp here:
http://www.fender.com/support/amp_schematics/pdfs/Hot_Rod_Deluxe_Schematic.pdf
Look at the circuitry of the switches on the schematic at C8. Your pedal should have similar circuitry. Assuming your cable is good, the problem would be in the pedal itself.
SOURCE: The digital FX on my
This is likely to be an internal problem. Check the +5 volt power to the DFX board as a first step.
SOURCE: I have the fender accessories footswitch and the
Verify the footswitch with an ohmmeter. You should find that each of four pins should have continuity to pin 2 of the connector when the switch associated with the pin is pressed.
Note the pin numbers on the connector seem to have a weird layout. Here is a link to your amp schematic. The Footswitch interface is shown on page 3 of 12.
http://elektrotanya.com/fender_cyber-twin_sch.pdf/download.html
Use the ohmmeter to check each wire in the cable is good. SOme cables, unless the official one for the unit, may lack some wires.
The amp "reads" the footswitch state into a register which is then read serially. The inouts are pretty well protected from user mistakes. With the schematic you should be able to analyze the failure.
SOURCE: I have a Marshall channel/dfx footswitch. The jack
NEVER trust colors... with an ohmmeter you can tell which is the common lead by testing... find the lead that has continuity to EITHER switch independently... It is PROBABLY the blue one... this will be the "sleeve" of the plug. The schematic documentation is so bad the jack wiring cannot be decipered as to which contact is the tip and the ring. HOWEVER once you find the common of the switches and connect it to the sleeve you have only two choices for the other wires so just try them.
You can also take the back off the pedal to find which color goes to BOTH the switches... connect that one to the sleeve. Try the other two wires for proper operation before final soldering.
Testimonial: "Great, I'll give that a try now. Thank you so much."
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