Has the cable signal been branched off to another TV (or more) from the same feed? Ghosting and shadows are usually the result of bad impedance matches on those lines. Try connecting the prime TV directly to the cable box (or cable jack) output and note if there is any improvement. Make sure the cable itself is of the RG-6 type (not RG-59) and has no sharp bends or kinks. The center pin of the cable should be clean without corrosion. The RF IN jack on the TV should be checked to make sure the threads for the connector are clean and the plug should be attached firmly but not too tight. These steps should help solve this at least assuming the cable signal is good. [Checking it shows the "level" coming off the pole, not necessarily the quality of that level.] Hope this helps.
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A loud "pop" in any electronic device is the equivalent of a massive heart attack for a human. They normally don't survive them. The noise is from some capacitor somewhere in the device exploding from old age or a power surge. And old age for newer TVs is in the range of 3 years, some even less. It's the way they make them these days...they want you to be buying a new one in just a few years, so they under-engineer the electronics to the bare minimum so they don't have the long-lasting lifetime of the older style electronics we have come to appreciate.
If the ghosting is like a 3D effect its your convergence ICs , but if its like a blue Halo around objects that usually means your CRT coolant has congealed and will need replacement. The blue is the first tube to congeal for some reason, followed by green. Red seems to be not quite as prone to this. It is a normal occurrence n sets about 4 years old to need the coolant changed.
LOOKS LIKE U HAVE RECEPTION PROBLEM WHERE U LIVE......IF U USE A INDOOR ANTENNA MOVE IT AROUND UNTIL U GET A CLEAR OR BETTER PICTURE OR BETTER CONNECT TO A OUTDOOR AERIAL/////// IF PROBLEM PERSIST GO IN CONTACT WITH TOSHIBA SERVICE CENTER
50V500 ONLY GHOST: May be described as "Out of Convergence" but ghost is still attached to main image. CONDITION: A "ghost image" appearing to the left or right of images in the picture.Can be varying shades of a primary color (red, green, or blue) as well as gray.Can easily be seen in the 4 x 3 mode, at the edges of the picture. CORRECTION:
To correct the problem, please do as follows:
Access I2C Menu. (See page 57 of the Service Manual).
To enter the I2C Service Menu, with power off, (on the front control panel) press and hold the INPUT button. Then press the POWER button for two seconds. The following Service Menu will appear.
BEFORE CONTINUING: CONFIRM THAT THE R, G and B DRIVE ARE SET AT 40.
Be sure to press SELECT after each change to SAVE the new Data.
Using the Remote Control joy stick, scroll down to next page (see Figure 2) until LCD ADJUST is highlighted.
Move the joy stick to the right to cursor right once.The next page will appear with the word GHOST highlighted.
Cursor right again, and a white screen will appear with a BLACK SQUARE in the center, as in Figure 3.You will see LCD ADJUST, followed by “SHP” and a number (value).
If the unit is out of adjustment, you will see a gray ghost on either side of the black square. Move the joystick to the right or to the left until the ghost disappears. The number values will change up or down.
If the ghost adjustment is off with a lower value, there will be a ghost to the left of the square.
If the ghost adjustment is off with a higher value, there will be a ghost to the right of the square.
Once you get the square to look good without ghosts, press "SELECT" to save any data values that have been changed.
Press the "EXIT" button three times to return to normal picture.
I don't think the picture tube (CRT) failed.
If you have no sign of life at all such as a lit LED or similar, the unit either has a blown fuse (could be inside) or the power supply has failed or at least is starting up as it should.
But before getting carried away, plug a lamp or other device into the same outlet to be certain that the set is getting AC.
Then, check your user guide to see if they specify or list any fuse in the specification section.
If you find mention of it and replace it only to see it fail again, then there was a reason for the failure of the first fuse too, meaning it will need service.