The tub fills with water but will not agitate or spin. Seems mechanically sound but not getting any line voltage to the motor. A friend suggested inspecting the timer for bad contacts. It fell apart into many pieces. Unable to reassemble, replaced timer. Still no line voltage to motor. Schematic is difficult to comprehend. Line voltage as I can tell is only availabe to water temp switch, timer and tub fill solenoids. What am I not understanding about this machines theory of operation?
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
if it filled proplerly and won't start now, it sounds like the door switch is broken, there could be something wrong with the rest of the electrical systems, however i would suggest the switch first. If there is a lot of noise like its trying to run, then its probably your transmission.
It sounds as if the timer has failed internally. Spinning on each setting means the motor is not reversing and that reverse function is controlled by the timer itself. It would never fill if it is stuck in spin unless you select rinse and depending on cycle it can inject water in the spin during the final rinse. If your machine does this normally see if it injects water. If it does inject water at that point I am 95 % sure your timer is the problem.
Sounds like a bad lid switch. When you close the top lid, there is a safety switch that closes, it is actuated by a pin attached to the lid, there will be a small hole located on top of the machine, somewhere on the perimter of the top of the tub. Could also be a bad timer.
First we started hearing a grinding sound during the spin cycle. My husband replaced the belt, which was loose and not helping the spinning of the tub any, thus much wetter clothing after spin cycle. The belt gave us another week of use out of the machine and did drain the tub better, but then water started leaking into the tub from the water inlet (or area where water rushes in to fill tub), and was not up to the usual "rush" of water, when filling up. The grinding sound started again during the spin cycle, and so now we are assuming it is the ball bearings or the brakes and perhaps the water pump as well. Estimates for these jobs on the boards seems to run from $400-500.00. The machine is only 7 years old, but after reading so many posts, maybe I should count my blessings that it lasted that long! This was an all mechanical machine, which I loved. Atlantis Maytag, a very sturdy and solid looking machine. Never did really clean that well though. SOLUTION: we are getting a new machine.
i believe i can help you,,but washers dont agitate in the spin cycle,,i believe you ment it wont wring or spin in the spin cycle..your lid switch is defective,,replace,,if need be i can talk you though,,onthejob
Water level controls - The water level control is also know as a pressure switch, this is where you set the water level ( small - medium - large ). The water level control is responsible to shut off the power to the fill valve and direct that power to the timer so the washing machine can start up. The WLC has electrical contacts in it that sends power to the fill valve and when the WLC is satisfied the water level is correct the electrical contacts open power to the fill valve and send the power to the timer and the washer starts. Picture of thishere. How the water level control knows when it is time to shut the water off is, a air tight hose runs from the outer washer tank to the water level control. As the water fills the outer tank air is pushed up the hose, depending on which setting you have made ( small- medium - large ) is takes a certain amount of this pressure to make the WLC cycle over and shut off the water and send this power to the timer. If this hose develops a leak or a pin hole the washer can over fill as the WLC may not be able to shut the water off. The water level control can also break down and allow the washer to over fill as well. Testing a water level control or a fill valve can be done by using a Testing a water level control or a fill valve can be done by using a ohm meter or a volt meter.Testing a water level control or a fill valve can be done by using a ohm meter or a volt meter.Testing a water level control or a fill valve can be done by using a ohm meter or a volt meter. A couple of tips from readers (Thankx!! ): ~ If you have a loose hose on the water level control or tank end, use a plastic wire tie to help hold the hose tighter and make a tight fit. ~ The water level tube (tube that runs from the square box), access panel on the outer drum where the bleach tube also ends) from the pressure sensor switch (front panel) can become clogged. Or the two holes from the outer tub into this square box panel on the outside of the outer tub can become clogged. Either clog, I am told by my help repair guy can cause the sensor to think that there is still too much water in the tub and so will not allow motor to activate spin. ~ If the water level control contact is bad, it may also stop the filling ok, but not tell the washer to start agitating.