Oil type What type and grade of engine oil should be used in a Benell 900 SEI (series 3) The bike has been is storage for some time and had done less than 500 miles from new. IE Mineral or Synthetic 5W-30

Clean, lube and check that all parts are moving.

Damper oil is traditionally a fairly light grade of straight mineral oil; SAE 20 or 30 is typical but people have their preferences and sometimes with good reason and I have heard of all manner of oils being used from auto transmission fluid to engine oil.

Your bike specs should tell you what oil and how much is recommended for your bike or any motorcycle parts department or repair shop.

hi,the transmission oil and engine oil are the same thing,one oil does both,hence why bikes use a multi grade oil,normally..most hondas you will find engine oil/trans oil filler on the top of the r/h engine side cover...hope this helps...cheers

Any type of fluid leak is not normal. Especially engine oil.

It can be any of the following - and some more I don't know about:

1) Valve stem seals leaking, if you run against compression (eg. downhill) and then accellerates and it smokes, this is a possibility.

2) Piston Rings worn out - smokes all the time

3) PCV Valve shot - smokes all the time

4) Bad oil. NEVER MIX OILS!!!!! You can use any brand you like if it is correctly rated and tested, eg API SF/CC rated, BUT STICK TO THAT BRAND!!!! I won't recommend any specific brand- I use Shell in my car, Castrol in my truck and Mobil in my bike - so I'm not brand-specific. However, I keep to one specific oil (type and grade) per vehicle. My car has done 200000 + kilo's, my bike 145000, and my previous truck did 300000 till I sold it - all of them without any engine problems.

Go to another garage for a second opinion.

Dear Sir. The engine oil flows through the starter clutch which acts as a centrfugal oil filter. Sludge builds up and causes the starter clutch to slip.

It is possible to replace the Benelli 900 starter clutch without having to remove the engine.
It requires removing the clutch, then the side casing and gears. The sump needs to be removed...middle exhauster header pipes first. The lh engine cover and oil pump also needs to be removed. The primary drive shaft can then be removed from the RHS of the engine. the primary drive chain and satrer clutch assembly will now drop enough to enable the removal of the sprocket from the starter clutch (it is a bit tight and then the rest of the starter clutch will come out of the chain. Be aware that the oil pump drive connector is on the end of the primary drive shaft and care needs to be exercised. This is possible if due caution and care is taken. Assembly id basically reverse of above. Happy fixing.

new battery in itturning over nicely after chasing down a few bad grounds but have very weak spark.I had cam2 in it even and couldnt get it to fire.I suspect coils or possiblly grounds still .Question iswhere can I get these electrical parts for the bike?(dont all answer at once now...)I think I need pickups for the bike as well but am going from memory on that one.ThanksHave you tried changing the ground from the coils to go straight to the frame and NOT through the sidestand cutout? I don't trust that little fella. I've rewired mine so it kills the satrter motor instead - can't start the bike with the sidestand down - and as I never get off the bike leave the engine running with the sidestand it's not a problem. It does mean though that if the switch gives problems (i.e. in the wet) it does not kill the engine.,,,

but does anyone have experience of adding a firmer fork oil to the 900 Sei? Road tests I've read suggest that it may improve handling and hard braking particularly in reducing rear wheel chatter when throwing out all the anchorsThe 900 Sei uses damper insert cartridges in the top of the fork leg. The oil is ONLY for lubrication of the fork and tube. All the damping work is done by the cartridge therefore changing the oil will have no effect. The only thing you can do is change / upgrade the damper units. When I rebuilt my bike I used some air assisted ones by FAC. I'll have to look up the details for you, but mine are up for replacement now too so this is quite a current topic for me too,,,

SAE 20W/40...I advice you to use the Company oil for the first two years when your bike is under warranty and then move onto Mobil 1 or MOTUL