After a couple of months of use both sets refuse to switch on with remote or manually. If they are unplugged and left for a couple of months they start working again. I have to alternate their use. The sets, when switching on sometimes respond with a quick flash of picture before switching back off. At present neither set will switch on. The only AV used is a Phillips freeview box. Both TV's are around 8 years old and this problem has happened for the past 10 months, soon after we had some electrical work in the house. Could this be the cause?
An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points
An expert that got 10 achievements.
An expert that got 5 achievements.
An expert whose answer got voted for 500 times.
Re: Thomson and LG TV's difficult to switch on
It most certainly could be the cause of the problem. Most of the time when a TV set comes onm then switches off, its a fault in the power regulator circuit. Regulators can go bad all by them selfs, but most of the time, they fail due to excessive AC voltage, and or ppower surges, such as the oin off action of intermittant power would cause. On sets this old, Im not sure you would want to invest the type of cash to repair. Its onlty a guess but I would say a minimum of 125 to repair them? Its a call only you can make. You should go to this link and read this first. http://www.techlore.com/article/10602/ Good Luck
Please do not forget to rate this link.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
did the voltage selector on the back of the unit possibly get moved to wrong setting? You could also try switching it back & forth a few times (unplugged first of course) to see if maybe the switch needs "cleaning"
hello! 2 month and already quit? OK: first thing to do is to unplug TV off the power strip or wall outlet. Wait for a few minutes and plug the set back into the power source. Try to turn on the set manually, by touching sensors or buttons on control panel. some TVs have push buttons, some touch sensors. If your TV was set to "auto power on" mode, then don't touch anything after plugging set in. That's the only action you can do to "revive" the set. If you will be able to turn set on manually and "free standing" without any external connections, except power cord, check your remote control unit. 95% of consumers turn on their sets via "clickers". In case of complete failure, you might have month or 10 month left of factory warranty, depend on price you paid. Use it a.s.a.p! If needed. There is no magic button to heal broken circuitry. Good luck, Alex.
It sounds like you have a switch problem at the front panel of the set. If a switch gets stuck internally the micro is trying to process the command and won't respond to any other commands. The only way to find out is to go into the set and desolder all the manual switches and see if the remote will work the set. It has a seperate detector for the remote. Thanks for using fixya. Good luck
For a three years old set, first place to look is the main power supply capacitors, at least the 5vdc standby circuit is working, the problem can be as bad as the main controller board, but look at the power supply first. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plague
You don't need the remote to unlock the TV. Any RCA universal remote will change channels etc if you want a remote. Now from the manual: simultaneously hold down the menu/OK button and the Volume down button for 3 seconds. This resets the pasword and unlocks the TV. You can then enter the menus as usualI believe to control/clear parental settings etc.
If you did not use heat sink compound then you probably have not hurt the new IC's yet but you should remove them and add the heat sink compound NOW. If the convergence IC's are bad then you will have access to the convergence menu but the adjustments will have no effect. The fact that you switched the IC's and got the same results shows that the IC's are good. If your red convergence is still way out when the new IC's are installed then the old IC probably burned out the low value resistor associated with the Red Vertical (RV) channel.