Question about Yamaha Electrical Supplies
Not knowing your exact model # or how old it is, and knowing only what you said above - TOTAL RUN HOURS unknown as well? - I can only give you several possibilities of what the problem might be - even though I don't know the exact model # and which engine you have on the Genset. Porter Cable as well as Coleman and others do not themselves mfr much of anything today, but like with many USA companies out there today it does private label out to a lot of mfg vendors (mostly in China btw), and the Genset gas engines are numerous. From Briggs & Stratton to Honda to Subaru and so forth...
I also don't know what normal LOAD you were putting on your Genset there, or have been putting on it previously, or at what RPM you are normally running the engine at - as to half throttle or full throttle setting?? I take it that it's a Briggs & Stratton 4-stroke single cyl, or is it a Honda 4-stroke single/twin cyl engine?
Any Genset that is going to be put into storage for that long a period of time I would first and foremost recommend running the Carb Bowl dry first by running the Genset at FULL speed, and while running turning off the gas until it dies. Thus removing as much gas from the Carb Float Bowl as possible!
Most people do not do this and forget about that small amount of stale gas in the Float Bowl, and that is what causes VARNISH in the Carb Bowl faster then anything else.
Just putting a gas preservative in the gas tank doesn't solve the VARNISH problem because that never gets down to the Carb to begin with if the gas line shut-off valve is closed before the preservative gets down there.
If the Float decides to stick while in storage, and then it's brought out to fire up naturally the gas will flood out the Carb and probably the Air Filter Box as well.
It's always better to store the Genset DRY! I know I do and I have NO problems at all with stale gas, etc.
Since all Gensets need to be run a minimum of 10 minutes every 30 days (every 1 month religiously), or whatever your owners manual recommends - if you haven't been doing this, or don't run the gas out of the Float Bowl before shutting the Genset down after each use - then most likely the Carb is gummy or possibly has dirty gas in the bowl and is the problem.
I seriously doubt you did any damage to the engine by the recent gas over-run and flooding.
You might try and tap carefully on the bottom or side of the Float Bowl with a hard rubber hammer first to try and see if you can dislodge the stuck Float inside. If there is a WIRE at the bottom of the Float Bowl on your model - DO NOT HIT THAT GAS SHUT-OFF SOLENOID WITH THE RUBBER HAMMER - as you will do damage to it! If this dislodges the stuck Float then your problem is solved!
You may still want to run a bottle of Carb Cleaner in the tank just in case to clean out any residual buildup in the Float Bowl, etc. If it runs fine then No Problem.
First and foremost always check your OIL LEVEL and make sure you have changed it out according to your owners manual!!!
If your Genset still runs sporadically for only a short time and then starts to cut out I would look more for like a fuel vapor lock (partially closed or clogged gas cap vent), a possible dirty fuel filter, possible water moisture in the gas tank or in the Carb bowl, possibly dirty Carb in general along with it's dirty Float Bowl, Float Pin, Float and Needle Valve, and any Adjustment Screws that go Into the Carb Body.
It's hard to say unless the Carb first is broken down, checked for proper Float action setting, and/or cleaned out accordingly if dirt is indeed present in the bottom of the Float Bowl.
If all looks good there Carb Bowl wise then you will next need to check the FLOAT adjustment itself to make sure you aren't flooding the Bowl. Your Operators/Service Manual should have that adjustment there. If not let me know and I'll post it for you. Also the air/fuel mixture Jet Adjustment Screws will need to checked as well.
Let me know if you should need that adjustment procedure as well after you first check out everything else I stated above?
That covers everything from a fuel standpoint.
Again - You do know that all Gensets should be started and run for at least 10 mins every 30 days - right? If you didn't know this - now you do! Every good operators manual should state this.
It just doesn't sound like it's starving for gas - that's for sure!
The gas tank fuel line does have an in-line fuel filter correct? If it doesn't you definitely need to add one for dirt protection!!
Having covered everything from an fuel standpoint engine wise - there is only one other thing left Genset wise.
Beings your Genset there might just have some high RUNTIME HOURS on it - it just could very possibly be what sounds like to me (and I personally HAVE SEEN this happen myself firsthand) that the generator brushes are nearly shot - as in almost worn out. They may be getting too too hot - as from excessive current draw at point of contact, and thus the generator sensing circuitry itself is doing an electrical CUTOUT!!
An added protective Genset circuit feature in that the generator itself may indeed be linked to the engine as a type of REV LIMITER or CUTOUT on the Maintenance-free Magnetron® electronic ignition. Again - your operators or service manual should have a pretty good troubleshooting section in it unless you don't have that anymore or never got one if you bought it used to begin with.
If you unscrew & remove the Generator brushes, and they are indeed below the recommended length (or worse case they are indeed totally worn down) then that too most likely could be your problem right there.
If you choose to replace the old brushes with new ones yourself - be very careful when seating the new ones - as to their insertion and cap retainer tightening. Never over-tighten those black plastic-like brush retainer screw caps - for if you break one (hard to get immediate replacements is why), or fracture one it could cause the Genset to fail under LOAD, and that very well could do some severe damage to the generator part itself. Take your time doing it, and be patient!!
It has to be one of the scenarios listed above, as I've covered every possible cause short of a broken wire somewhere - which in that case you will have to schematic trace and Ohm out wire to wire contacts. This being the least likely scenario from experience.
If you indeed find the Float Bowl assy to be the cause of dirt contamination or varnish build-up clogging the Carb, and you need a walk-through of taking it apart, cleaning it out, and then re-assembling it again - as well as re-adjusting the fuel mixture Adjustment Screws - just give me a shout here, and I'll walk you through it step by step.
Please post me a reply as to the found problem there, and the resolve to it by following my recommendations above. Also please rate my troubleshooting fix as well.
Keep me posted and I'll follow up as well.
GENERATOR OIL CHANGE NEGLECT
People experiencing starting issues often are not using fuel stabilizer or not changing their oil. I myself or any good repair shop will first pull the oil out, and most times we'll will find that it has metallic build up common from any small gas engine that has been neglected.
Posted on Sep 03, 2008
A call to Elliott Small Engine solved my problem - Oil Guard. I had checked the oil and it was just a little low but seemed well within the normal range. I was told to add more, bringing it just over the Full mark. It seems that the low oil protection system is very sensitive and shuts down the engine even when the oil is withing 1/8" of the mark. I added about 2-3 oz of oil and no more problems
Posted on Dec 16, 2008
Most gasoline engines need three basic things to run: proper air/fuel mixture, sufficient compression, and a properly timed spark. Check the easiest, cheapest things first, then check the "Gee, I forgot to turn on the gas" kind of things next, then work your way onwards from there.
Compression can be guesstimated with the proverbial thumb-over-the-empty-spark-plug-hole routine as you turn it over casually to check compression. If it doesn't blow your thumb out of position, you could have a hole in the piston (overheating response) or a stuck or damaged intake or exhaust valve.
Check for fuel flow by carefully disconnecting the fuel line to the carburetor and letting some run into a tin can (no styrofoam coffee cups, please). It should dribble freely. If not, you have to back-track the line and find out where the blockage is.
Spark is one that sounds like you've already tested (spark plug out of the cylinder head, hooked up and laying on the metal engine as you turn it over?) so check timing. You will probably need a manual for this test, although a good estimate is that the plug should fire just a wee bit before Top Dead Center position of the piston. Like I said, a manual comes in handy here.
From what you've mentioned, though, I'd start trouble-shooting at the fuel flow part first.
Posted on Jun 08, 2009
The needle valve may be stuck which would not let gas into the carb. I don;t think rebuild kits are too expensive. Pull the carb and take it to a lawnmower repair shop and they should have the parts. Before that though pull the bowl and make sure it has gas in it. If no then remove the fuel line and make sure gas flows from it. If no then could be the fuel shutoff valve is not operating properly or junk in the gas tank is obstructing the line.
Posted on Jul 31, 2009
Have Generator McCullough FG 6000 was running fine motor still running fine than NO power output, any suggestions ?? Can you get replacement parts and repair diagram off the interent ??
Posted on Jul 12, 2010
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