Mitsubishi CS3505R When I turn on I hear a clic but not the exitment on the tube,I check the connectors to the cables around the tube and there is no power. I want to give this girl her last chance before I send her to the recycling dump. Pablo Moran, Los Angeles. if somebody answer do not tell me c8X32gdxxzz because I not understand a cent of parts #s Thanks

If it were the check valve, (safety release valve), you would hear the air escaping from the safety release valve. You have an air leak somewhere. A small leak in the system will keep the compressor from building pressure. If you turn the compressor on and feel around the ends of the tube that leads from the compressor cylinder head to the tank (be careful... it will be HOT) you may feel air escaping from the tube connector at the tank or the connector at the compressor cylinder head. If that is the case, tighten the connectors at the compressor head and the tank. If the connectors still leak, you will need to remove the tube and replace the packings (gaskets) at each end of the tube. Also check all of the hose connectors for leaks, and check the hose for damage that may cause an air leak. If you remove the air hose from the compressor and run the compressor you will be able to tell if your problem is in the hose or hose connectors or the compressor-to-head air tube.

Ui have a 1990 mighty max/ s with a 4cyl automatic 3speed w/OD, to be honest it sounds like u may have a couple things going on. 1) check the starter making sure it is working correctly, 2) the solenoid needs replacing. Contacts needs cleaning & make sure that the contacts are tight & finally 4) make sure u check the neutral safety switch is good & working properly. I have the issue of shift cable bushings gone all still connected but gone, feels like its trying to go into OD but cant, starts about 45mph, but on acceleration its smooth as brand new. Until at a steady driving speed. Cant figure it out honestly. Hope this helps

If you have tried using different input devices, looked for loose contacts
in power outlet, RC Jack, cable and connectors, the TV might need service.

I have seen the hoses develop a leak right where they exit the metal tube from the pump. The bad part is that you have to pull the pump apart to repair it. Here is a diagram so you can see what you have.

Porter Cable C2002 diagram

Fault Code 54

Description: No fuel injector sync pickup signal during engine rotation
Power loss light: On
Limp-in mode: Logic module will guess at injector timing

Possible Causes:
Bad connection or wiring - Check the wiring and connections between the hall effect sensor (located underneath the distributer cap) and the logic module. Check the continuity of the two 3 conductor cables coming out of the sensor--these are prone to fatiguing and breaking inside the insulation where they exit the sensor if the cables are not properly tied down. You may be able to resolder them. Clean and regrease any corroded connectors with dielectric grease and repair any shorts.

Hall effect sensor failure - Check the two, flat 3 conductor cables coming out of the sensor. These often fatigue where they exit from the sensor. Upon replacing the sensor, make sure the cables are clipped or tied to the distributor cap shroud (or elsewhere) so they do not swing around.

Diagnostic Method
Trigger Parameters
- Engine cranking or running (signal coming from ignition reference sensor)
- No signal from the fuel injector sync pickup sensor

Results If Component Fails
Fault code 54 is stored. The engine will stall and will not start.

Good luck.

It’s in the hardest place to reach they could put it. Get under your car and follow the firewall near the center. You'll see a small hose poking out that you can barely reach with an air hose wand. Debris often plug the drain hose. If you hear water sloshing on the passenger side in the dash and/or the passenger side carpet is soaked, blow air through the drain tube to unblock it. Also the grommet around the hose there at the firewall can deteriorate and let condensed water blow back into the driver’s side floor pan. With a lot of effort you can pack silicon sealant around the drain tube at the exiting firewall location and solve that problem. With real effort you can place silicon around it from the interior also. If you don't have a compartment filter or your filter is old and ineffective, you'll be amazed at how much debris sets on your condenser coil down there in the center of the dash (if your airflow is less than you remember and not as cold, the condenser coil is likely covered in debris)...and it's almost impossible to clean it out without disassembling the dash. That's another story on how to fix...

install your sound device driver go here and clic on lancer la detection
www.ma-config.com

DON'T FORGET TO RATE

check the capasitor near the plyback value 250 volts and also the B+ capasitor

did you hear any popping sound/clicking, or any like that you think that tv still response when you try to turn it ON

Hi Chelon alot of Mitsubishi tv's around the time the model number you are stating where built have a small PCB on the yoke of the picture tubes, connections on these boards (one of them) break down so the set loses one of the scaning circuits (vertical or horiz) the circuitry senses this failure and shuts off the picture (some models the whole set) this is to protect the picture tubes, try wigglin the heavy cable going to each of the 3 tubes (unpluged from wall socket) then plug it in and turn it on. Once the set is up, carfully wiggle each of the cables goin to the yokes until the screen flickers or flashes now you know which one is bad repair it is a bit of task but lets see it you get this far first.