Question about Garden
Motor runs good, drive belt replaced already, when put into gear tines will not engage, how to remove rear tines and seals??
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Posted on May 20, 2009
I had this same problem and took the first advice about the shift fork arms being too spread apart. I took apart the gearbox apart and found that the shift fork arms did indeed spread apart overtime and with wear. I'm having a buddy weld some reinforcement to it as long as he can maintain clearance in certain areas as to not disrupt the operation. If it doesn't work then I did find the shift fork assembly part for $50, I just googled the part number, clicked on various sites, and found a better price!
Posted on Mar 03, 2010
It sounds like the shift shaft or something in the gearbox the shift shaft engages. I know you didn't want to hear this but it is not uncommon. Most operators don't use the clutch bail when starting, stopping, and shifting as they should.
I hate to say it but this may require a trip to your service center for repair.
Posted on Apr 30, 2010
Put the tiller in a vise clamping on the bottom of worm gear housing. Remove worm gear housing cover. Clamp the worm gear at the top with a vise grip (I think Kuya Jon is correct in that you could skip this step because the transmission won't move when unscrewing, but I did it anyway just in case). Put a pipe wrench on the left tine shaft and unscrew it like it was a normal bolt. It's in there tight and it will take some force. When I unscrewed mine, the left bearing seal retainer, left bearing seal, and left bearing all came out with it. I just needed to replace the seals. I went to the right side, and with a screw driver carefully pried out the retainer. Then it's easy to just pull out the right seal with your finger. Put a new right seal in and insert the right retainer. Make sure the retainer is facing the correct way. I used a block of wood to tap mine in once I had it positioned because I was afraid to hit the retainer with a hammer. Now I put the tine shaft back in while holding the worm gear with the vise grip. Screw the shaft as far as it will go by hand and then go the rest of the way with a pipe wrench. Now came the tricky part. The right bearing did not slide right in. There was some resistance. I had to use a 1/2" threaded pvc pipe (not sure it needs to be threaded but that's what worked for me) longer than the tine shaft that was sticking out. I slip the pipe over the shaft against the bearing and tapped with a hammer. This drove the bearing in all the way. It needs to go in far enough to leave room for the seal and retainer. The plastic pvc allowed for this. Now put the right seal in. If the outer edge of the seal is only flush with the housing you did not tap the bearing in far enough. I made this mistake on my first try and tried to force the retainer in. Take it from me. It won't work. You will end up ordering another retainer to replace the one you mangled. Once in properly I slid the retainer over the shaft and then put a washer over that to tap against. The block of wood doesn't work on this side because the shaft is in the way. I used my pvc pipe again to tap against the washer and, wala, it worked like a charm. I hope this helps someone. All the other posts really helped me. Thanks!
Posted on May 21, 2010
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