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Motor runs good, drive belt replaced already, when put into gear tines will not engage, how to remove rear tines and seals??

Posted by Bill Caudill on

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mike butler

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  • Master
  • 6,468 Answers

Look on the shafts the tines ride on and see if the bolts broke off

Posted on Mar 29, 2012

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Anonymous

  • 86 Answers

SOURCE: Rototiller won't engage into gear

You will need to split the gear case if iam not mistaken it has chain drine the chain links break and you have to replace them

Posted on May 13, 2009

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Joe Hogan

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SOURCE: rear tiller won't go into gear.belt needs replacing

find your model number from the list on this link and click to get your manual

http://www.managemyhome.com/mmh/owner_manuals/search?query=Craftsman+rear+tine+tiller

Posted on May 20, 2009

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Yardman Rear Tine Tiller tines won't turn. Belt

I had this same problem and took the first advice about the shift fork arms being too spread apart. I took apart the gearbox apart and found that the shift fork arms did indeed spread apart overtime and with wear. I'm having a buddy weld some reinforcement to it as long as he can maintain clearance in certain areas as to not disrupt the operation. If it doesn't work then I did find the shift fork assembly part for $50, I just googled the part number, clicked on various sites, and found a better price!

Posted on Mar 03, 2010

Tom

  • 221 Answers

SOURCE: mtd rear tines tiller won't engage tines. F and R

It sounds like the shift shaft or something in the gearbox the shift shaft engages. I know you didn't want to hear this but it is not uncommon. Most operators don't use the clutch bail when starting, stopping, and shifting as they should.

I hate to say it but this may require a trip to your service center for repair.

Posted on Apr 30, 2010

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Tine shaft removal for mantis 2 cycle tiller

Put the tiller in a vise clamping on the bottom of worm gear housing. Remove worm gear housing cover. Clamp the worm gear at the top with a vise grip (I think Kuya Jon is correct in that you could skip this step because the transmission won't move when unscrewing, but I did it anyway just in case). Put a pipe wrench on the left tine shaft and unscrew it like it was a normal bolt. It's in there tight and it will take some force. When I unscrewed mine, the left bearing seal retainer, left bearing seal, and left bearing all came out with it. I just needed to replace the seals. I went to the right side, and with a screw driver carefully pried out the retainer. Then it's easy to just pull out the right seal with your finger. Put a new right seal in and insert the right retainer. Make sure the retainer is facing the correct way. I used a block of wood to tap mine in once I had it positioned because I was afraid to hit the retainer with a hammer. Now I put the tine shaft back in while holding the worm gear with the vise grip. Screw the shaft as far as it will go by hand and then go the rest of the way with a pipe wrench. Now came the tricky part. The right bearing did not slide right in. There was some resistance. I had to use a 1/2" threaded pvc pipe (not sure it needs to be threaded but that's what worked for me) longer than the tine shaft that was sticking out. I slip the pipe over the shaft against the bearing and tapped with a hammer. This drove the bearing in all the way. It needs to go in far enough to leave room for the seal and retainer. The plastic pvc allowed for this. Now put the right seal in. If the outer edge of the seal is only flush with the housing you did not tap the bearing in far enough. I made this mistake on my first try and tried to force the retainer in. Take it from me. It won't work. You will end up ordering another retainer to replace the one you mangled. Once in properly I slid the retainer over the shaft and then put a washer over that to tap against. The block of wood doesn't work on this side because the shaft is in the way. I used my pvc pipe again to tap against the washer and, wala, it worked like a charm. I hope this helps someone. All the other posts really helped me. Thanks!

Posted on May 21, 2010

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1 Answer

The motor runs fine, it stopped tilling, and the belts do engage properly. What happened


Randy, The gear in the gear box may have sheared a key, or damaged gear. Check the attached links,instruction and guides, Good luck
"I hope this helped you out, if so let me know by pressing the helpful button. Check out some of my other posts if you need more tips and info."

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It depends on the make and model.
Some have a drive belt that can break or jump off.
If it has a side cover from the motor to the gear box, remove the cover and inspect the belt.

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Tines will not engage


Did a key fall out from one of the shafts?? Look in side and see if tine gear is turning when you turn motor with it in gear by had of course.

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I have a poulan 850 that runs great. Gears engage and gos forward and back but wile tilling it made a click and the tines no longer engage. It's been suggested that it's a shear or breakaway pin....


Yes, there is a gear and pinion that drive the tines. Either a pin has sheared or teeth have broke off the gears. Either way its internal. You will need to completely disassemble the unit. Before you disassemble the unit locate and record the model and serial number from the chassis and the model, type, and code of the motor, you will need these numbers to purchase replacement parts. Remove the motor, tines, wheels, all shields, handles, etc. Until you are left with just the gearcase. Then you will need to split the gearcase. Lay it on its side on blocks so that it is stable and level. Remove all the fasteners and remove the top side. Take your time it will be hard to seperate the halfs to start with. Once the cases are split you will be able to identify the failed part and replace them. Good luck

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1 Answer

1980 pony rear tine tiller: when I put it into gear it just sits there and will suddenly lurch ahead uncontrollably.


That will happen when the tines are engaged while the wheels are in Neutral as the tines simply drive the whole machine forward without the drag of the wheels being in gear. If the wheel transmission is engaged and this is still happening, then you have need for repair.
farmerbear at FixYa.com

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1 Answer

MY ROTOTILLER RUNS AND DRIVES BUT THE TINES WONT TURN


Make sure that the clutch doges as I call them are engaging properly. Also check rear tine gearbox for striped gears or sheared keys. To check some of these things it may be necessary to remove rear tine gearbox by removing the 4 bolts that hold it on to the main transmission. Hope this helps.

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1 Answer

MTD series 410 rear tine tiller drive wheels slip


I have the same issue with one I am working on. It appears the keys in the drive shaft are not rotating far enough out on the drive gear side to fully engage in the gear. I have studied and studied this and so far I have been unable to determine why. If I find out I will let you know. I am also trying to figure out what is supposed to pull these keys out of the till engagement gear.

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2 Answers

The tines on my troy built Horse tiller do not grb when tilling. Are the gears in the drive shaft the problem? How do you fix this?


Since there is no grinding noise, if the problem is in the gear box it isn't too severe. There is a slight possibility that a tooth or two has been broken off one of the gears. But it sounds more like you have a worn drive belt. Most of the time when the tines don't grab or they slip it is because the drive belt have become worn in some way. If it is suppose to be a one-half inch wide belt it could have thinned to a three-eight inch allowing the belt to drop further into the pulley than needed, or it may be "sloppy", not tightening enough to operate the tines if it has stretched. The right belt is very important and is an easy fix. I hope this helps.

Jun 17, 2009 | Troy Bilt Tiller/Edger 26cc, Model No....

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I have a lazy boy tiller with chaine drive, its liked locked up. it will not engage, any help please ! it does have aplace to put oil on the side of the chine drive house. what kind of oil would it take?...


The gear box can be removed, reset and resealed using gasket magic. It is not a quick fix and during this process I also replaced the tine shaft seals as I had lubricant leaking from the gear-box to the tine shaft. When you are tilling you should avoid rocky areas. It iseems sudden tension due to bouncing is what knocks the chain loose.

DO NOT remove the belt pulley from the top of the gear box. It is unecessary. You must remove the entire assembly from the rear of the machine. It is set in place by 6 bolts and come off as a whole unit. Once it is removed then undo the three bolts and spacers that hold the case in place. Remove the case from the frame by sliding it out the open end. You will have to remove all of the bolts around the outside of the case; a cordless drill really comes in handy here. Lay the case on its side, as you remove the bolts you may experience lubricant dripping from the centers of the removed bolt holes, or at the center holes where the case connected to the frame. This is not a problem as you will need to replace the 90 weight lubricant after you have resealed the case anyway. Once you have removed all of the bolts, using a flathead screwdriver and a mallet or hammer. break the seal around the outside of the case. You may have to go around a few times, but eventually it will pull apart revealing the sprockets, bound chain and remaining lubricant. Since it is open this is an ideal time to check for wear on sprockets and remove any large debris from the case. reset the chain so that the tine shaft moves freely and the corresponding sprockets spin as you move the tine shaft. Using a gasket sealant (Gasket Magic**) put a thick bead of sealant in the center of flat outside edge where the two sides of the case come together. Add a little extra around bolt holes. Replace the two covers snugly together and begin finger-tightening the bolts back into the crank case. Once you have completed this task, go back over the bolts and tighten with a hand wrench. Once the case is back together allow 45m to an hour for the sealant to completly harden before introducing lubricant to the system. Then reattach the case to the rear assembly and then put your tiller back together.

This occurrence seams to be an issue with these machines, however the problem is avoidable as it is persistant use in rocky or hard ground areas which causes causes the system to jump and bind. If you happen upon a hard patch of earth or rocky area, go slow, do not force the tiller and remove any large debris when possible before tilling.

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