Thanks for the help! The fridge was in defrost. He switched it back and the fans came on. However there seems to still be a problem. The fridge and freezer still are not getting as cold as they should be. It has been just about 42 hours since we switched it out of defrost. The freezer's temp is ranging between 20-28 degrees. The fridge is ranging from 40-48 degrees. It isn't getting any colder then that. I have no idea what else could be the problem. We had taken the back panel off in the freezer and there was ice on the coils. I had read here to take a blow dryer to it and get the ice off. Which we did, but that apparently wasn't the problem. Any ideas? If not, that is ok. You have been a great help anyways! :)
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Re: Fridge & Freezer not getting cold enough
Welshons, Take a look at the picture Im posting. Did your evaporator look like it? If so your system may be restricted. This is a pretty common problem in Frigidaire top mounts. The good news is that it would be covered under warranty if it is not over 5 years old. As long as your condensor fan is running and the condensor is clean, evaporator not frosted up and evap fan running. I would think that you have a weak compressor or a restriction. Catriver...post back.
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If the fan has failed or intermittent, the freezer wont freeze the food properly but usually you get a mountain of ice build up at the back of the freezer. This ice jams and stops the fan from turning. Alternatively, there could be a defrost problem. Unless it is a fully electronic defrost machine, there is usually a little timer on the back of the fridge to force a defrost after a certain time. The fridge will turn off, the defrost heater operates to melt the ice and then usually with 20 to 45 minutes, the defrost timer will "click" back on and start the fridge running again. If the timer is sticking, the fridge may stay on its defrost cycle and never start again, thus, it doesn't get cold. If you find the defrost timer, have a close look for a little shaft or slotted screw type stud sticking out of the middle of it. A slight turn of this and you should hear it clicking around. When you hear a loud click, that is either the start or end of the defrost cycle. If you have a full electronic defrost system, it may be a failed board, heater, thermostat or defrost safety fuse.
The same fan that circulates air in the freezer also blows air in to the fridge. If you open the freezer door and hold the door switch closed you should hear the fan running. If not you have a failed motor or motor control. Look at the back wall of the freezer section and see if there is a heavy frost build up. If so. you have a defrost system problem. Please post back with what you find and with the complete model number and I will try to walk you through the steps of checking everything.
We experienced a smilar problem with your Fisher & Paykle fridge/freezer.
The fan that sends cold air to the Fridge section of the appliance didnt appear to be working leaving the Fridge poorly cooled.
I suggest the first step is to turn the fridge off and leave it to totally defrost.
Build up in ice in the freezer section seemed to have an impact on the proper operation of the fan which seems to relie on a thermostat for its operation.
Having defrosted and cleaned the fridge the problem was solved.
The fans have a delay before switching on after the door is closed. Place a magnet over the door sensor switch and wait to see if the fan works.
The problem could be that the unit has iced over itself over a period of time and defrosting it could solve the problem.
APM6855 Built in fridge freezer If Fridge is not cooling & freezer is ok then try a defrost by switching off for 24 hrs Then switch back on. it should be OK. If this does not work it is probably the door switch faulty , this should switch on the fan when door is closed. The fan is then controlled by thermostat sensor which switches fan off/on when required.
hi thanks for your question. you have a no defrost problem. the cheapest part to replace is the defrost termination switch. located in the freezer., its clamped to one of the coils by the fan motor replace this part. see what happens thanks the appliance doc
The limit switch is found only on frost-free refrigerators and freezers. Its function is to keep the defrost heating element from exceeding certain set temperatures. If a refrigerator has lots of frost in the freezer compartment, the problem may be the limit switch. However, other components -- the evaporator fan, the defrost timer, and the defrost heater -- can cause the same problem. Check these for malfunctions, as detailed below. If these parts are in working condition, the problem is most likely in the limit switch. Don't try to fix the limit switch yourself; call a professional service person for replacement.
Is the fan in the freezer running? You should be able to hear it. If not, that is your problem. Check the door light/fan switch or check if the fan has power to it when you press the door switch in by hand. If fan is running, you could have a defrost problem. The defrost timer or the defrost heater could be faulty.
If the evaporator fan is not running. The fan itself could be faulty or the door operated light/fan switch could be faulty.
If the evaporator fan is running. The fridge is not defrosting and ice has built up on the evaporator and the air is not circulating properly into the fridge compartment. The fan circulates cold air into the fridge and back through the fridge control which is normally just an adjustable flap which allows more or less cold into the fridge depending on the setting. If the fridge is not defrosting, the defrost timer could be faulty or heater element could be blown.
could be due to ice build up jamming the fan. take back panel off and check for ice. if ice present the defrost system has failed. also on some models, the fan stops when door is opened. check door switch is operating