We have a 2 year old whirlpool top loader washing machine. About two weeks ago I noticed it sounded different during the initial draining. When I lifted up the lid, it was not spinning while it was draining. Once I lifted the lid, the tub shifted and when I closed the lid, it spun. Now, I have to run down and lift the lid each time I hear it start to drain in order for the tub to spin. The acutal "spin" cycle works fine, but wont working during the drain/rinse part of the cycle.
Please advise what the potential problem could be and a possible solution.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Could be one of several different things depending on the age and model. If its less than 10 years old and is a top load washer its probably a motor coupling (connects the motor to the transmission kinda like a belt) or lid switch. If the water is draining out but the washer is not spinning its probably the motor coupling. If it still has water in it and won't spin, its probably the lid switch. If your washer is a front loader there could be several things going on. Hope that helps.
Those cams/gears etc. in that assembly keep the washer from spinning until all of the water is pumped out and then go into spin mode.
When ours had the same problem (wouldn't start spinning unless the lid was raised and lowered again) we looked at the transmission parts list (available on a number of sites) and on the Whirlpool site (Whirlpool makes Kenmore) and noticed that the one of the cams in the neutral assembly which is supposed to have a small spring, didn't on ours when we tore the transmission apart again. (Third time was the charm.)
Lay the machine down (after disconnecting power and hoses, remove the pump (two clips), the motor (two screws hold two clips on the motor), lift and set the motor aside.
Remove two 1/2 inch bolts for the motor mounting plate and three 1/2 inch bolts for the transmission.
Pull the transmission, remove the clutch (there is a spring clip that holds the clutch on the main agitator shaft), remove the 8 screws carefully the transmission holds 15Oz of 80-90 weight gear oil (non detergent gear oil from a local auto parts dealer), remove the clip holding the main spin gear on and check the plastic cams.
If the cam that should have a spring doesn't, or the others look damaged, or the main spin gear is damaged the washer won't go into spin mode.
If that's the problem, install a Neutral drain kit, put everything back together carefully and the problem may be solved.
As an aside, fixing ours cost less than $30 including 80-90 weight gear oil vs. $170 for a new transmission.
If it's spinning when you lift the lid, the coupler is fine.
If it isn't spinning--and your machine was produced by Whirlpool®--you may have a broken coupler. Many Whirlpool-made washers use a small, relatively inexpensive device called a motor coupling. This plastic-and-rubber component is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. When that happens, you need to replace it completely.
If the washer doesn't reach its proper spin speed, the clothes may be too wet at the end of a cycle. Check to be sure the load is properly balanced and run a spin cycle again. If the clothes are still wet, you may have a worn or loose belt (Maytag®), a worn clutch (GE®/Hotpoint®), or a worn motor pulley or tub bearing. Replace the applicable component.
Alternatively, there could be clothes caught between the inner and outer tubs. Read the "It spins but won't pump" section of the "It won't drain" section. Also, there could be other things that cause friction on the drive train. Seek the assistance of a qualified appliance repair technician.
If the water that pumps from the machine goes right back into the machine after the spin cycle, it may be because your washer is siphoning the water from a laundry tub with a slow drain, back into the washer. Try to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is there something stuck in the drain?) Also, be sure the drain hose doesn't reach more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub. If it does, cut off the excess.
Water-inlet valves eventually fail. One problem that may develop with a water-inlet valve is that it can no longer completely shut off when the electricity is turned off to it. Then, the valve may leak and drip water into the clothes tub--you may notice that your washer has water in it when you haven't used it for a few days. To fix this, replace the valve.
Based upon the age, it may be as simple as replacing the lid switch. Open and close lid, listen for 'clicking' sound. If no 'clicking' sound, replace lid switch. Here's how:
To access it REMOVE POWER, lift the console by one of three ways. 1. Look in the back of the console, in each corner there will be a screw, unscrew until the console can be pushed forward. 2. The trim on either side can be pried off from the top, grasp and pull forward to expose to expose a screw. 3. Insert a putty knife under each corner, push to release a latch.
With console lifted: 1. You will find a lid switch connector (white in color). Unplug the switch from the connector.
2. There will be two brass colored clips. Place a flat blade screwdriver straight down into the opening on top of the washer and into the groove of the clip. Push the screwdriver down and away from you and the clip will release.
3. Open the lid of the washer and place your hand under the front rim of the opening (DO NOT grab the wash tub). Tilt and slide cabinet forward to remove.
If you need further assistance, let me know Regards, reg501
sounds like the lid switch. if you have a hole that the lid finger goes in stick a pencil in it and turn it to spin if it spins replace lid switch finger not making contact. if you dont have a hole then try to tighten the screws on the side of the lid.