My oven is about 2 years old. First I noticed things weren't cooking properly. I bought a thermometer and realized even though it beeped to say it was preheated it really wasn't. For instance if I set it at 450 it would beep at perhaps 375. I tried turning it higher than I wanted it, that worked, but then in the middle of cooking the temp. would start to fall, I would turn it up 25 or 50 more, then it would rise even higher than the desired cooking temp and start to burn the food. So if I sit by the stove and keep a close eye on the thermometer and turn the knob up and down about every 5 minutes I might manage to cook something edible. My husband took out the sensor and cleaned it (it wasn't really dirty) and put it back but it didn't help. Do I nead a new sensor?
Glowworm
My model # is 362 75321002, I first posted a month or so ago, I dont remember how those 788 #'s got there. Anyway, I dont think 35 degrees is going to help me much. We really dont want to expend the funds right now for a repair man, we want to order the part but can't decide if it is the sensor or the control panel. Is there a way to check to rule out one or the other?My model # is 362 75321002, I first posted a month or so ago, I dont remember how those 788 #'s got there. Anyway, I dont think 35 degrees is going to help me much. We really dont want to expend the funds right now for a repair man, we want to order the part but can't decide if it is the sensor or the control panel. Is there a way to check to rule out one or the other?
My husband checked the sensor, it checked out fine. 1091 just like you said. Now we need guidance on how to check out the control panel. If you could please help us. how do we ohm out the control panel? He looked on the paper he found on the back and when he ohmed it out it read 9.54. Does that mean it's bad? I know I haven't put this in the right terminology, please bear with me. I would appreciate any feed back you could give me.My husband checked the sensor, it checked out fine. 1091 just like you said. Now we need guidance on how to check out the control panel. If you could please help us. how do we ohm out the control panel? He looked on the paper he found on the back and when he ohmed it out it read 9.54. Does that mean it's bad? I know I haven't put this in the right terminology, please bear with me. I would appreciate any feed back you could give me.
AnonymousDec 31, 2007
I have the same problemm. Did gloworm ever get the oven fixed? If so what was the problem?I have the same problemm. Did gloworm ever get the oven fixed? If so what was the problem?
Having same problem(s). Also, the oven stops heating partway through cooking/baking - even though the read out says that it is still heating, it actually stops heating. Very frustrating!Having same problem(s). Also, the oven stops heating partway through cooking/baking - even though the read out says that it is still heating, it actually stops heating. Very frustrating!
AnonymousJan 10, 2009
Same problem here - the temp is not just off, but it actually fluctuates. I'd hate to buy a new thermostat and that not be the solution.
Same problem here - the temp is not just off, but it actually fluctuates. I'd hate to buy a new thermostat and that not be the solution.
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Re:
Glowworm, Im assuming your model is a 790.78802500. If your husband is handy with a meter have him ohm out the sensor. It should show around 1091 ohms at 75 degrees or room temp. The preheat is programed so that the manufacturer can get the energy effecient label on the range and what ever perks they get from it. It actually should take around another 10 to 15 minutes to reach the set temp after it shows preheated. You can calibrate the oven by setting bake to 550 degrees. Then press and hold the bake pad again for 15 seconds or until a single beep is heard. Now you can adust temps up or down in 5 degree increments up to 35 degrees by using the slew keys. It will show in the display. Once you have the calibration done, press stop/clear. Catriver...post back
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It sounds like your Gaffers and Sattler oven may have a problem with the thermostat or temperature sensor. These components help regulate the oven temperature and can cause fluctuations if they are not functioning properly. Here are a few things you can try to troubleshoot the issue:
Make sure the oven is properly calibrated. Some ovens have a calibration adjustment that can be used to fine-tune the temperature. Consult the manual or manufacturer's website to see if your oven has this feature, and follow the instructions to calibrate the oven if necessary.
Check the oven thermostat. The thermostat controls the heating element and can cause temperature fluctuations if it is not working correctly. You may need to replace the thermostat if it is faulty.
Check the temperature sensor. The temperature sensor measures the oven temperature and sends a signal to the thermostat to adjust the heating element as needed. If the sensor is not functioning properly, it can cause temperature fluctuations. You may need to replace the sensor if it is faulty.
Check the heating element. The heating element is responsible for generating the heat inside the oven. If it is not working properly, it can cause temperature fluctuations. You may need to replace the heating element if it is faulty.
I suggest you roast the pork at 250 degrees Fahrenheit, so the cooking time will take longer. When you return home, pull the roast out of the oven and insert your meat thermometer. The internal temperature of the meat needs to be between 140-145 degrees F. If it is not, put the pork roast back in the oven and turn the heat up to 350 degrees F. Check the internal meat temperature every 15 min.
You CAN set the cooking temperature even lower to allow for an even longer cooking time. But NEVER set it lower than 200 degrees F.
Note: Be sure to turn your oven off when no longer needed. Plus, allow the meat to rest 10-15 min. before carving.
Cooking times are dependent on much more than weight. The shape of the roast, the thickness, the uniformity, the outside temperature, the quirks of your grill or oven... the only way to cook a roast properly is with a probe-type thermometer. You decide what temperature you want the center of your roast and cook it until it reaches that temperature. The lower the cooking temperature, the more evenly the roast will cook. 300 degrees will take awhile but the outcome will be excellent. You can Google roasting temps to give you a general idea, but if you use a recipe time, you will overcook or undercook your roast, probably, 60% of the time. Probe thermometers are cheap and reliable.
Cooking times are dependent on much more than weight. The shape of the roast, the thickness, the uniformity, the outside temperature, the quirks of your grill or oven... the only way to cook a roast properly is with a probe-type thermometer. You decide what temperature you want the center of your roast and cook it until it reaches that temperature. The lower the cooking temperature, the more evenly the roast will cook. You can Google roasting temps to give you a general idea, but if you use a recipe time, you will overcook or undercook your roast, probably, 60% of the time. Probe thermometers are cheap and reliable.
I have a Superba built-in YKEBS 177 D56 ( dual convection/convention)...I think it might be about 10 years old. I noticed the same thing starting last year..the temperature seems a litlle off and the cook time on the convention seems to take longer. I've never used the conventional oven so I don't know if the temperature is OK on that component.
I don't have a manual. and I've been searching for it...does anyone know which one I need?
Sorry I couldn't help with your problem, mine is similar to your though!!
Had a similar issue - but my unit is eight years old. Turns out my issues were my oven ignitors were failing and one of the burners had corroded causing the flame to only light on one side. To fix I replaced two ignitors (apparently they are to be replaced every 3-5 years) and cleaned the burner with a brass wire brush. If you are handy the ignitors are easy to replace - one screw and two wires each. Burner was one screw to remove.
Ceramic ignitors if wearing out can cause delayed lighting of the oven burners and/or reduce the gas flow - hence not heating up.
I recommend you buy a cheap oven thermometer and check the oven temperature yourself. As a gasfitter I know temperature conversions (numbers to degrees) are approximate and I think may be done on purpose so consumers won't complain if they put a thermometer int he oven and it differs from the thermostat. Check the temperature in the centre of the oven. do not use pans and trays that fill the sheld as gas ovens need room to circulate the hot air. Also do not place items in the oven so the top of it is near the top of the oven - otherwise it will burn. I have found when cooking a chicken it needs to be turned otherwist the bottom of it may not be cooked.
Cheers
John
Generally, most units are properly calibrated at the factory. Get an oven thermometer for a few dollars at Ace and place it in the oven and run it at a particular temperature...say 350. If the thermometer is off more than about 15 degrees after warm up and stabilization...another 10 minutes, most manuals have a way of altering the thermostat settings to compensate.
1. Do both coils get red hot? Try with bake @ 400F, then with broil to be sure. I recently had a bad lower bake coil, but the oven got hot slowly since the broil top coil comes on periodically to even up the heat in the oven. Replacing the lower coil was easy, about a 15-min job, but I had to pre-tap the screw holes on the coil terminals since my oven had extremely short wires.
2. If the coils are ok, the problem may be with the thermocouple or control board.
you might have already thought of this, buy an oven thermometer you can pop in the oven.
I bought one from my local cook shop
I have a the same cooker and similar problem - mine gets hotter by 50 degrees so I set the temperature 50 degrees lower than needed.
I noticed the problem a few years a go and luckily hasn't got any worse.
My model # is 362 75321002, I first posted a month or so ago, I dont remember how those 788 #'s got there. Anyway, I dont think 35 degrees is going to help me much. We really dont want to expend the funds right now for a repair man, we want to order the part but can't decide if it is the sensor or the control panel. Is there a way to check to rule out one or the other?
My husband checked the sensor, it checked out fine. 1091 just like you said. Now we need guidance on how to check out the control panel. If you could please help us. how do we ohm out the control panel? He looked on the paper he found on the back and when he ohmed it out it read 9.54. Does that mean it's bad? I know I haven't put this in the right terminology, please bear with me. I would appreciate any feed back you could give me.
I have the same problemm. Did gloworm ever get the oven fixed? If so what was the problem?
Having same problem(s). Also, the oven stops heating partway through cooking/baking - even though the read out says that it is still heating, it actually stops heating. Very frustrating!
Same problem here - the temp is not just off, but it actually fluctuates. I'd hate to buy a new thermostat and that not be the solution.
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