Frigidaire FRT21P5A Top Freezer Refrigerator Logo

Question about Frigidaire FRT21P5A Top Freezer Refrigerator

1 Answer

Fridge & Freezer not cooling.

I noticed awhile back that the center of the fridge was getting hot where the doors meet. I mentioned it to my husband who did nothing. Went into the freezer a couple days ago and noticed that our ice cream was soft and that the ice cubes weren't totally frozen anymore. I felt a few other things and realized everything was defrosting. So I took everything out and put it in our big freezer outside. I made him take the fridge out and away from the wall and remove the guard at the bottom and discovered that the plastic piece that holds the coils away from the fan was broke and that the coils were now blocking the fan from moving. So we fixed that problem and the fan is working now. However, the freezer still isn't freezing stuff and now the fridge part isn't working. I have no clue what else to check. I don't know how to get to anything on this fridge to check it. I was looking at the manual that you posted here (which was great, thank you!) and it appears there is another fan but I have no clue how to get to it. My husband is not very mechanically inclined mind you but I believe he can fix it if I know how to get to it. Of course knowing our luck that isn't the problem. Do you have any suggestions? I would hate to lose all the food in the fridge since I just wnet grocery shopping, but I don't knwo what to do. Any help would be greatly appreciated it.

Posted by Patty Welshons on

  • Patty Welshons Oct 18, 2006

    Thanks for the help! The fridge was in defrost. He switched it back and the fans came on. However there seems to still be a problem. The fridge and freezer still are not getting as cold as they should be. It has been just about 42 hours since we switched it out of defrost. The freezer's temp is ranging between 20-28 degrees. The fridge is ranging from 40-48 degrees. It isn't getting any colder then that. I have no idea what else could be the problem. We had taken the back panel off in the freezer and there was ice on the coils. I had read here to take a blow dryer to it and get the ice off. Which we did, but that apparently wasn't the problem. Any ideas? If not, that is ok. You have been a great help anyways! :)

  • Anonymous Jul 21, 2008

    frigidaire top freezer fpi-152p is freezing top but not bottom. gets hot between the freezer and thr refirdge,. checkedtthe motor on the defro. but still not colloing the bottom. Jud

×

Ad

1 Answer

Anonymous

  • Level 3:

    An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points

    All-Star:

    An expert that got 10 achievements.

    MVP:

    An expert that got 5 achievements.

    President:

    An expert whose answer got voted for 500 times.

  • Master
  • 878 Answers

Welshons, You want to make sure that the condensor fan is still running. Your evaporator fan, located behind the panel in the freezer should be running too unless you are in defrost. Your compressor should be running, it may have gotten real hot from the condensor fan not operating and is kicking off on overload. Once it cools down it should restart. Your condensing coils should be warm to the touch if the compressor is running. Right behind the temp. controls you will see a hole in the control cover. In that hole is the defrost timer. You can take a flat blade screw driver and turn the notch clockwise slowly to see if you are in defrost. It will click and the freezer fan should start running,(if it's in defrost). Just a gut feeling tells me either your condensor fan is still not functioning right or your compressor is too hot to start. Check the above out and let us know, Catriver...post back.

Posted on Oct 16, 2006

Ad

Add Your Answer

×

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

0helpful
1answer

Admiral Fridge HS20M7, Freezer side not cold enough even with setting on coldest.

FREEZER /FRIDGE NOT COOLING: Optimum refrigerator temperature at or below40° F(4° C). The freezer temperature should be0° F(-18° C). Check temperatures periodically. Appliance thermometers are the best way of knowing these



Check ur cold control thermostat, ur thermistors in both fridge and freezer ( they should be checked for both ohms and for amount of current being put out as per ur model ), ur air flow vent from freezer to fridge.( to make sure it opens and closes without any restrictions) On thermistors check for A close circuit and amount of ohms not just an Ohm reading. As per ur model. Most should atleast show 1200 ohms. Also Check door seals for leakage.

Evaporator coils

Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.

If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.



FAN check to see if it is operating or restricted A fan that is not blowing or restricted will not circulate the cold air properly.



Often, the first thing that folks do when their refrigerator starts to feel warm is turn both controls on the coldest settings.This is exactly the WRONG thing to do.Turning the cold control to the coldest settingwillkeep the compressor running longer and make lots of cold air.



But turning the air door to the coldest settingclosesthe airway to the food section. Lots of cold air is made, but most of it stays in the freezer section, and the food section actually getswarmer.





Condenser

Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator.

May also need to check the defrost timer, u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad?

Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next.

Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance..



THE COMPRESSOR:

If you hear a clicking sound coming from the back of your refrigerator/freezer, then the problem is most likely the compressor, relay and or capacitor is overheating or not getting proper power and will not start.The compressor is the component on your refrigerator that allows your refrigerator to cool. If this component is not working properly your refrigerator will stop cooling. Most of the time the compressor is not the component that has failed.



To check ur compressor with multi meter:

Disconnect and remove the relay and capacitor from compressor, some located next to compressor in a casing.



You wills see 3 prongs coming out of compressor. 1 goes to ur start winding, 1 goes to ur run winding and the center goes to ur ground.



Place ur meter connector or prong on the start prong and the other on the ground (center prong) take note of the reading in OHMS for example 5 ohms.

Next place meter prong on run prong and the center ground prong agin. Take note of the reading in OHMS. Example 4 ohms



Next place meter prong on the start prong and the other on the run prong, now take note of the reading example 9 ohms. Now match the total of this ohms test with the total of ur two separate test. 9 ohms, if they match ur ok give or take 5 percent plus or minus. One more test to make to test of there is a short in compressor attach meter prong to ground prong and rub the other end of meter prong to metal ( scrape the metal clean of paint and test on metal surface not painted surface. If it shows continuity or ohms , u have a short in ur compressor. It should show infinity



TO REPLACE RELAY AND CAPACITOR WITH A HARDSTART KIT YOU CAN USE



A 3 in 1 start kit for compressors sizes 1/4 through 1/3 HP. And a 5 in 1 for higher H.P. (BE SURE TO MATCH WITH UR COMPRESSOR MODEL NUMBER AND TYPE) The kit includes relay, capacitor, and overload device, pre-wired. The kit will replace all 3 electrical components on capillary refrigeration systems. For newer systems with a run capacitor use proper kit. For smaller horsepower compressors useTJ90RCO810.



The wire set up is as follows the red wire goes to the right side of compressor prong, the white wire to the left side prong, the black wire to the center prong, and the 2 other black wires go to the power and the ground connection





Lastly you should also check ur THERMISTORS in the freezer and fridge section for continuity OHMS and for amount of OHMS current being put out. In most models around 13000 ( give or take 150 ohms) ohms is required.





1-3 TEMPERATURE CONTROL

As the food in the fridge gets colder, it gives off less heat, and the air inside the fridge will remain colder. A thermostat called aCOLD CONTROLwill cycle the cooling system on and off to keep the temperature inside your fridge within a certain range. You can adjust that range using one of the dials within your fridge.

On most fridges, all the cold air for both the food compartment and the freezer compartment is produced in one evaporator. Since the freezer is so much colder than the food compartment, most of the cold air that is produced circulates to the freezer compartment. Only a small amount is needed in the food compartment to keep it down to the proper temperature. This amount is adjusted by a smallAIR DOORin the duct between the evaporator and the food compartment. The control for this air door is the other of the two dials within your fridge.



If you hear your compressor "short-cycling" (starting and stopping at short intervals) try jumping across the two leads of the cold control thermostat ( in the fridge compartment) with an alligator jumper. You can also check both for live voltage current and ohms- If there is a greenthirdlead, ignore it for this test; it is the ground wire. If the fridge starts running constantly, the cold control is bad. Replace it.



To test or change the cold control, first Pull the knob off it and remove any plastic cover plate or housing from it.

You will see two wires leading to it. There will also be a thick, stiffCAPILLARY TUBEattached. The capillary tube is the liquid-filled temperature-sensing element of the cold control, and operates in the same manner as a thermometer

The air damper, baffle or diffuser is the device that balances the air flow from the evaporator fan housing. This normally is a mechanically controlled baffle or flapper that controls the amount of cold air entering the fresh food compartment. If the baffle is damaged or the linkage to the control knob is damaged, then you may not have enough cold air entering the fresh food compartment resulting in higher than normal temperatures. This baffle or damper will be located where the cold air enters the fresh food compartment.


ALSO CHECK THE AIR FLOW VENT SYSTEM and THERMISTORS At times it can get stuck to far closed or open. Some units feature a digital electric adjusting vent system while others are manually set. Check for any ice build up or other obstruction in the vent damper, see if u can manually open or close it. Some times when u have the settings set to the highest it closes off one area while allowing to much cold air flow to the other area!


THERMISTORS in the freezer and fridge section for continuity OHMS and for amount of OHMS current being put out. In most models around 1300 ( give or take 150 ohms) ohms is required


Read more:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KqXN-ZCuptk THIRMISTOR CHECK


REMEMBER GOD IS THE REASON FOR GOOD ADVICE!


cold control damper-za4sl1jd21htrezsypy4b1wj-6-0.jpg



thermistor badgoodthermistor-za4sl1jd21htrezsypy4b1wj-6-2.png



thermistor freezerevaporatorthermistor-za4sl1jd21htrezsypy4b1wj-6-4.jpg
0helpful
1answer

Samsung SR 61KTC fridge not cooling but freezer is fine fans seemed to be very noisy a few days ago now sound like not on at all

Had the same problem when the door switch broke. The electronics of the fridge thought the door was open and therefore the fridge would not cool. I noticed that the light wouldn't turn off when the door was closed to discover the switch was broken. It was an $11 part which my husband replaced and the fridge works fine now.
0helpful
1answer

Fridge not cooling

Do you see any ice buildup on the back wall of the freezer or behind it?
0helpful
1answer
1helpful
1answer

My freezer temp registers 28 - 36, I cleaned out coils, I notice that there is a fan in the back bottom right side, not sure what should make that run. My Ice is slowly melting. I had the freezer setting...

That fan behind the refrig , is the fan that cools the compressor . It should be running any time the compressor runs . If not running , replace it . The center divider between the fridge and freezer ( front strip ) should be getting hot to the touch if the fan is not running .
1helpful
2answers

Center support is hot

Pull the fridge out from the wall , and remove the rear panel . Check to see if the fan which cools the compressor is running . If not , it will have to be replaced . You may can get it started , by turning the blade by hand , but , it will still have to be replaced as it will stop again . If it is turning , your coils need to be cleaned of dust , lint , pet hair , etc . Also , the fridge has to have a back panel , so it will pull air over the coils and compressor , to keep them cool .
4helpful
1answer

Center front partition is very hot!

Either your coils are dirty ( clean from the front after removing the kickplate , only what you can get to ) or , the condensor fan motor is bad ( motor which cools the compressor ) .
0helpful
1answer

Refridgerator not staying cool

Is the cooling fan in the back working? Does the center of fridge where your doors meet feel really hot?
0helpful
1answer

GE side by side not cooling properly/outside surface hot

please check the condenser fan motor. it is probably not running or the condenser is very dirty.

remove the rear cover and it will show you the compressor and the condenser fan.
if the fan is not running, try to rotate it manually and feel if it is sticking .

if it is, it may just need the old wd 40 lubricant.

tnx 4 using fixya,

drcool


Not finding what you are looking for?

336 views

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Frigidaire Refrigerators Experts

Steve

Level 3 Expert

3290 Answers

Ronny Bennett Sr.
Ronny Bennett Sr.

Level 3 Expert

6963 Answers

john h

Level 3 Expert

27461 Answers

Are you a Frigidaire Refrigerator Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...