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Question about Mitsubishi VS-55601 55" Rear Projection Television

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Cant get the tv to power up

No power up. The tv makes a "click" noise when pluged in , but fails to power up when the "on" button is pressed. Also tried with the remote with no luck.. Removed the back panel to inspect for possible blown fuse. Replaced the visual ones and still no response from the power switch. - Inspected the power cord... no irregularities - double checked the outlet, all is functional - Inspected the rear panel with board cover removed, and plugged in the power cord and tried to pinpoint clicking noise. seems to get power, but fails to power-up by either the front power-on switch or the remote. Question....? Is there any special fuses that burn out that are not visually acccessable with rear board off? John H

Posted by john hallen on

  • 3 more comments 
  • JARGON Nov 25, 2007

    WHEN I PLUG UP THE TV AND HIT THE ON SWITCH THE TV BEGAN TO FLICKER AND CLICK AND THE SMELL OF SOMETHING BURNING COMES FROM THE BACK. NOT SURE OF WHAT TO DO.

  • tomster Dec 03, 2007

    have a mitsubish 55601...1998...55in...when powering up manually or w/remote it clicks on...green ON light appears for 1 sec and then the tv powers off by itself...when doing this the screen remains blank.

  • Anonymous Feb 02, 2008

    having the same problem with my model VS 55601 what can I do to solve the problem.

  • Anonymous Jul 06, 2008

    green light goes for 1 second then turns off

  • little_rew Jan 10, 2009

    turn the vs 55601 on, it clicks and then turns off.

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1 Answer

Anonymous

I'm having the same problem. No power at all, tv was working fine and shut off by itself WS-65517. Please help!

Posted on Mar 27, 2008

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Whirlpool Side by Side American style Fridge Freezer too hot and too cold! I have model S20D FSS10-A/D Service number 8586 161 15000 Side By side FF - and after replacing many components on the rear board 13 years ago it has been running well. However.... with a new fault I am hoping that the symptoms may allow someone to point me in the right direction. Not having a circuit diagram has been a hindrance. Over last few years the front panel inside in the fridge in my model has been developing a display fault - it started with the LED display winking out briefly about twice a second. The mark/space of time for the 'winking out' changed slowly to 50% on 50% off twice a second to eventually become just flashing on briefly twice a second and finally off all the time. However, the default settings/functioning of the FF has been working fine so didn't need to use the panel. However, can't read any fault codes that might be there I don't think that the buttons are doing anything on the panel. It has 15v supply but I don't know what supply voltage from the rear PCB should be. Then... A few weeks ago the house RCD tripped once and the fridge bulb had blown ********* stain on bulb interior and Relay RL3 was chattering randomly - I took the board out and noticed a fried circuit track where it looped thinly either side of component hole that was unused. I soldered in a bridge over the gap. Restarted the FF. From then the freezer cools to -32c and warms up to -2c and down to -32 etc.. The fridge varies in temp but does go as low as 0c and high as +9c. Alongside this, when the compressor is not running we can heard a ticking noise and identified that the compressor fan was turning slowly about ?100 rpm There's no ice build up, the freezer to fridge air louvres are opening and closing when you switch the FF on, and do seem to open and close at different times. The evapourator fan seems fine as does the compressor fan, the bottom of the fridge is dust free and the rear panels are all on to allow proper cooling of the condensor motor. I pulled the board again, checked all the capacitors I have a slightly different board to many and all the capacitors I had used from one brand have failed again. I took all the caps out and measured them. C6, C16 should have been 0.68uF and were in the order of a few nF C14, 26, 27,28 should have been 0.1uF and were 0,.6nF, 2nF, 10nF and 38nF respectively. All other film and electrolytic capacitors were within tolerance. I replaced all the faulty caps thinking that I had found the display problem because you had told me in the past that C6 and C16 relate to the front panel and the cooling issues and fan issues but NONE had been cured :- I checked the continuity to the front panel of all connectiions and they're fine. Also checked the 2 electrolytics on the front board. So I am at a bit of a loss. I have checked the zener diodes in situ and all have about 6v forward voltage drop I cannot find a replacement board due to different connectors on my unit - so unless I can fix we will have to fork out for a new FF :-

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