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GE Double Oven - Bake and Broil - Multiple Problems

There are two problems. The first problem is that we can only use the upper oven about once per day. Once the over is on, the temperature can not be changed. If the oven is turned off, the oven can not be turned on again for many hours. The lower oven essentially doesn't work at all. The control panel indicates that the oven is on, but it does not get warm at all. Bake, broil and clean do not work for the lower oven.

Posted by rick meerman on

  • 2 more comments 
  • larryz25 Nov 10, 2007

    I've got a very similar problem. The upper oven works fine but the lower oven does not work at all.

    Same oven - GE JTP45. The lower oven indicates it is "on" in the control panel but it never heats up.

    I tried the slip of paper along the ribbon cable trick with no luck.

    No error codes.

  • jerryferdun Dec 19, 2007

    JTP45 oven, Lower works, Upper will not warm or broil. Panel comes on but no control to upper oven.

  • mrphixit2 Mar 23, 2008

    Lower Oven does not turn on elements to bake, broil or clean.
    there is a manually resettable thermal switch behind the center white panel (5 screws 3 1/4" hex on bottom and 2 phillips on top) The thermal switch opens at 275d as a safety. The lower fan thermal (right rear center section) supplies L1 power to the fan at 145d. In my case the fan does not run so hi temp temp thermal trips at 275d to shutdown elements.
    Have to pull the oven out to access the fans.

  • bcmillett Jul 07, 2008

    I have a GE jtp45w0a1ww. The lower oven has been a problem since new. After a cleaning cycle, hi-temp usage, or in the wrong mood, requests to bake or broil cause nothing to happen. Until 1 year ago I could always remove the panel between the upper and lower oven and reset the temperature switch as described in other posts. That no longer works. I replaced the temperature switch, but that did not help. This last week the upper oven stopped working - just like the lower oven. What is the problem?! How do I troubleshoot?


3 Related Answers

Mukesh Kumar

  • 3230 Answers

SOURCE: GE JTP 1580W288 Set oven to Bake, switches to broil at bake temp

The F2 Error code means the oven has detected an excess temperature condition. Most often this is due to a bad temperature sensor - the sensor costs about $75 from an online repair site. 
How to remove and replace the temperature sensor. In most GE ovens, when you open the door, you'll see the rod-shaped temperature sensor sticking out of the back wall at the upper left. It's about six inches long and a bit more than 1/8" in diameter, held in place with two screws. 

Turn off the circuit breaker (built-in ovens) or unplug the range before attempting the replacement. 

The replacement sensor will come with instructions, but basically it's a matter of removing the sensor, pulling out the wires to where they are connected and disconnecting them. You may have to snip. The replacement sensor will come with high-temp wire nuts to hold the new connection. Polarity doesn't matter; it's a straight resistance thermocouple. Hook it up, be sure you poke the connections back far enough so that they're on the other side of the thermal insulation and not resting against the back of the oven. 

If you continue getting the F2 error after replacing the sensor, then the problem is likely in the control module - this is the circuit board behind the keypad and clock. 

You'll need to remove the decorative bezel to get behind the control panel. Remove screws and set off parts in order - it's not complicated. Once the bezel is off there are two more screws that hold the panel in place. Then you can lift the panel up about a half inch and pivot it forward toward you. You'll see a bunch of wires going to a circuit board. 

On the panel you will notice some black plastic boxes that say "Potter & Brumfield" on them. These are relays. Check the relays - slide the black plastic cover straight up to expose the coil and the contacts. The coil, when energized, closes the contacts - look at all the relays. You can manually close the contacts with your finger (be gentle). If the contacts of one of them are stuck, they might be welded together. You can fix the problem by prying apart the welded contacts gently with a knife blade. Take some time to gently polish the relay contacts with a folded bit of fine grain sandpaper - this will get some more life out of them. Be gentle and careful - the relays aren't complicated but if you bend the contact or rip it out, you'll have to replace the controller, which will set you back a couple hundred dollars. If you unstick and burnish the relays, they will probably eventually weld together again as the rough spot will spark, but when you burnish them with sandpaper they should be good for some more life before they need to be replaced. 

If the problem isn't the temp sensor or welded relay contacts then the problem is obviously somewhere else, but temp sensor and relay contacts will account for the lion's share of F2 errors. 

Once again, be safe, be careful, be gentle. Ovens are not very complicated and they're tough, but always exercise care. Always disconnect electricity before messing with them.
good luck,

Posted on Jun 28, 2009


  • 4323 Answers

SOURCE: My GE double electric oven


If the error code still appears, then the problem is likely in the control module (circuit board) behind the keypad and clock. You'll need to remove the bezel to get behind the control panel. Remove the screws & lift the panel up about a half inch and pivot it forward toward you. The circuit board you can now see is the Control module. Check for the black square shaped components on this board, they may be burnt or the connection might be loose. Look for welded relay contacts on bake or broil relays. If this happens, replace oven control (also called clock or ERC).
Hope this helps... If it does please do not forget to accept the solution or post back for assistance.


Posted on Oct 11, 2010



  • 19396 Answers

SOURCE: i have a ge double


Check the thermal cutoff. Remove the thermal breaker from the oven and use a multimeter set on Ohms to test it. If the part reads open (infinity of Ohms, same as on air), then you need to replace the breaker

Here the part:BREAK THERML
The part is indicated with number 353 in diagram below.

If the thermal breaker is OK it will read zero Ohms or very low impedance. In that case the next part to replace is the thermostat. The thermostat also called temperature sensor or probe, is located inside the oven cavity.Test the thermostat in a similar way to what you did with the breaker. If the thermostat is open at room, then replace it.

Here the part:Oven Sensor
The part is indicated with number 332 in diagram below.

Here the diagram. Click on the picture to enlarge:


Note. I could not locate the exact model number in database, please call the part seller and ensure that parts correspond to the ones used in your model.



Posted on Dec 14, 2010

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