My microwave stopped working completely on it's own? I went to use it and it wasn't working, tried plugging it into another outlet, still dead! It is a year old. Any ideas what is wrong. Thanks, L
It may have a blown fuse or - assuming yours is a model NN-H965 - a defective inverter. The fuse is generally located on the bottom of the chassis of the microwave. You have to remove the outer cover on a counter top model - or the front panel assembly on an over-the-range model. There are several reasons why it may blow. If the fuse is loose in the holder, the fuse and the holder should both be replaced. If - with the microwave disconnected from the wall - you can easily turn the fuse with your fingers while it's in the holder, then it's too loose. What happens is the loose connection generates too much heat, causing it to melt internally. If so, you'll usually see a ball of solder at a point where the cap meets the body of the fuse. If the fuse blows as soon as you plug the oven in the wall, or when you open the door, the problem is likely with the door switches. You can find my files "doorsw.txt" and "safety'txt" via Google. They give you the safety warnings and cover the diagnosis and replacement of the door switches. If the fuse blows as soon as you hit START, then it's likely that you have a shorted high-voltage capacitor. If the fuse blows a few seconds after you hit START, then it's likely that you have an overheating / shorting high-voltage transformer. While an inverter (switched-mode power supply) is more efficient from a power consumption standpoint, it is more complex, thus more statistically prone to fail. These should only be examined and worked on by someone who has the necessary technical qualifications. Seriously. Often the machine-soldered connections in a microwave inverter are too weak, so they eventually fail, especially if heat is high in the area. They sometimes fail catastrophically. When not catastrophically damaged, you may hear clicking and may smell an electrical odor, which is sometimes obscured by the cooling fan. Some manufacturers do not encourage or assist technicians to repair microwave inverters. They offer the inverter as a whole assembly. But sometimes that is actually cheaper than the time and labor required to fix the old one. If a technician is willing and able to troubleshoot and repair the inverter to component level, it will may be expensive, but may be worth it, especially if he or she will resolder and reinforce connections as needed as part of a thorough repair. That could easily make your inverter beter than a new one! You might be able to get some verbal estimates if you call Panasonic-authorized repair shops and ask then specifically about inverter repair and inverter replacement costs for your model number. Be safe!
Light went out/I removed panel over the housing where the red fuse [I think it is the fuse]is located. The location is inside and very hard to get at. I can only get a single finger in the hole and then don't know what to do. It seems solid but I can't tell. Please, what do I have to do to get the light to work. /s/John Bridell, as harrybatt @comcast.net
SOURCE: Microwave runs for 3 seconds and shuts off
This is an inverter-driven model, and this is one way the inverter fails. Often it will tick, too, but the cooling fan may be too loud to hear ticking. If you haven't had smoke, then it may not yet catastrophic. I would bet that a thorough resoldering would take care of it. A good technician can troubleshoot and repair this, as needed, but often they will just replace the inverter. Sometimes that's actually cheaper. Troubleshooting an inverter is way too much for someone without good solid technical experience. I would call a shop and ask for an estimate to replace the inverter. Good luck.
SOURCE: panasonic 1250 watt microwave approx 5 yr old.
something burned out, has there been a thunderstorm lately?
if you get a new one, plug it into a surge protector.
SOURCE: My Panasonic NN-L531WF microwave stopped
Hi,
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heatman101
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I suspect these panasonic inverter ovens have a serious design flaw...and should be avoided. I also suspect the increasing higher wattage (consumer grade) ovens are more likely to fail earlier because of the higher stresses and energy--so mfrs can sell them more often!
Here's what happened on my 1250W, top-sized, inverter (DC) oven which is properly placed for venting. After cooking a turkey at 50% power for about 2 hours at placed a bowl with butter to be melted in the oven and started using 1-minute and start buttons--heating at 100% power while observing through window to stop manually before boiling/burning. Within a few seconds, smoke started coming out from around the oven's right side (left side viewed from oven front) at or near the vent opening. I turned the oven off immediately. After a few moments, I attempted to restart but the oven "blacked out" and would not start at all. I verified house fuses and outlets okay. Also, I observed that the food was not the source of the smoke. My theory is that the two hour cooking at 1/2 power caused heat build-up in the oven (due to faulty design), and that when full power was applied that was enought to bring wiring (insulation) or other component to the melt/char point and produce the smoke--or burn a vital component or fuse. I deemed this failure to be Panasonic's liability--the oven had only been light to moderately used for about a year (give or take), and I've never had a microwave fail in less that 6 to 15 years during 30 years of oven ownership--yes I realize that the more recent (and lower priced) ovens are meant to fail earlier--but replacing a top-of-line oven every year...that's ridiculous.
Anyway, I decided to remove the cover and look for damage to see if repair was feasible--and to be able to bring the problem to Panasonic for settlement. Only problem now is, that I am unable to find a driver tool to remove the "anti-tamper," round-head, toryx/hex type screws attaching the oven outer cover. The required screwdriver must be a national secret...since I've searched for hours online for any reference to the tool, its name, or any vendor, only to find nothing. Plenty of advise to remove the outer cover, but nothing on how to remove the cover screws.
Hi I have a Panasonic microwave 1100w stainless steal it just came up with H 98 can you plz tell me what that means thank you
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