1. The hood is shipped with a 6 inch round flap valve, presumably to keep outside air from blowing into the kitchen. The manual makes no mention of this part. Is installation recommended? If so, just drop it into the opening at the top of the hood?
2. The blowers make an unusual noise, hard to describe, audible at low speed only. Am wondering if there's a bad bearing, etc. Where do I take the unit to have it checked out under warranty? Live in Seattle, Washington.
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Re: flap valve and noise
The flapper valve is a weather valve. Usually, it is installed in such a way that the flapper is vertical and closed. The pipe is installed on the horizontal...you'll need an EL pipe. Pivots allow it to open when the fan is on. If you don't install it, wind will blow into the unit and you will be rather unhappy.
It is possible that the sound you hear is normal when opened up. With all the covers in place, it should be nearly silent.
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You have to be careful when adjusting the flame because you can cause carbon monoxide issues. There are two adjustments. the orifice hood and the air shutter. the orifice hood when turned will adjust the flame amount and the air shutter will adjust the burning of the gas. the hood will be on the line feeding the burner usually on them safety valve and should be a 1/2 inch nut. The air shutter is the door like opening on the burner tube itself. Your flame should be a nice blue cone without any yellow and should not blow and walk off the burner.
Check the ducting outlet is not blocked on the outside wall or if it is ducted up through a ceiling then remove the hose fron the unit and check for blockages.With the hose off run fan to see that it is indeed blowing the air correctly.The other things to check are the filters.
Hope this helps.
To get a rear control LG dryer apart: Open door and remove two phillips head screws at the 5 and 7 o'clock positions. Use a putty knife to release the clips holding the top panel to the dryer front by pushing the clips in at the seam of the dryer top and front, a couple inches in from each side. Swing top back. Remove two phillips head screws at the top, allowing front panel to pull forward. Unplug drum light and door switch and drum sensor plugs, allowing front panel to be completely removed and set aside. Now, look at the burner area at the lower right. Behind the gas valve you will find a small (about dime sized) high limit thermostat on the left side of the burner cone. It has two wires attached and has a small pin in the center of it. (Only on gas models) Push the pin in. Now, if that get's you ignition again, CORRECT VENTING ! Get rid of flexible vent material. (use only rigid aluminum vent pipe and elbows) Clean out vent pipes and outside vent hood. Outside vent hood should be the kind with a four inch flap for the opening, not a two inch flap. Tripping of the high limit thermo is almost always caused by inadequate air flow.
I would double check that the installer used the correct vent hood outside. The correct one has a spring that keeps the outdoor flap closed when not in use. Cleaning the outdoor flap area may also help it seal a little better. Even if the right hood was installed, you might check to see there is a spring present (or signs that there was one.
I have never had air blow out the downdraft, but I do feel cold travel to the fan unit which makes the floor cold in front of the range.